427R Drive Ability

14vision · #1 (**permalink**) 05-01-2020, 06:39 PM

As a new owner for the 2nd time I went with the 427r motor which probably for me wasn’t the best choice. I had same motor in previous car and I should have probably went in a different direction. The motor is fantastic and is great at upper speeds but low rpm and stop and go traffic car is challenging to drive.

Looking for any ideas that I could consider to make car more friendly driving at the lower speeds with local traffic stop and go etc...

Thanks

Doug

Grubby · #2 (**permalink**) 05-01-2020, 06:58 PM

Change the cam to something milder.

John

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 05-01-2020, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grubby

Change the cam to something milder.

Yep. Doug, I don't know the specs on a 427R motor, compression ratio and the like, but if you post them the gallery here will recommend a cam that gives you more low end torque for improved drivability. Now, it's never going to be a stroked FE,

but it will definitely let you enjoy the driving that you're actually doing. I don't know with a small block SPF if you can pop a new cam in without pulling the engine or not, but it's still a one day job for a decent mechanic... and a two day job for the rest of us.

14vision · #4 (**permalink**) 05-01-2020, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yep. Doug, I don't know the specs on a 427R motor, compression ratio and the like, but if you post them the gallery here will recommend a cam that gives you more low end torque for improved drivability. Now, it's never going to be a stroked FE,

but it will definitely let you enjoy the driving that you're actually doing. I don't know with a small block SPF if you can pop a new cam in without pulling the engine or not, but it's still a one day job for a decent mechanic... and a two day job for the rest of us.

Thanks. I will look that up in the manual. One thing I will have to careful of is not voiding the factory rousch 2 year warranty. I was als thinking of giving them a call for their feedback as well.

FredG · #5 (**permalink**) 05-01-2020, 09:42 PM

I have one for almost 2 years now. It doesn't like low rpms for local driving...below 2k. It reminds me of old time race engines. I set the idle a little higher around 1k and keep the operating rpms for simple cruising around town between 2-3k. If you do that, you will be fine. Its quite impressive when you push it to those higher rpms. Bottom line.....leave the cam and motor alone.

Fred

KDubU · #6 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 05:20 AM

I agree with Fred. I would up the idle a bit because swapping cams is going to cost you.

Edited to add, what carb you running and has it been tuned?

MKS427 · #7 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 11:02 AM

Doug,
I was having the same issue with my Craft 427. I abandoned the carb and went to EFI, not cheap, but it worked. Camshaft for EFI should be 112 degree lobe seperation. Another consideration would be a dual plane manifold, for improved, broad, low end torque. I have the Performer RPM Air Gap.
Good luck,
Mark

patrickt · #8 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 11:36 AM

Dang, if you're going to replace the cam, intake manifold, plus dumping the carb and going with EFI, and then crossing your fingers and hoping that it has the manners you're looking for, you might as well just pay blykins to build you a nice, low cost, 390 FE. That's pretty much guaranteed to give you what you want and it'll look just like a $25K side oiler. Just sell your 427R to someone else.

Anthony · #9 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 11:55 AM

I’d buy a ford motorsports crate small block, swap engines, and sell the 427R. Otherwise, just run the rpms a little higher while cruising. How many miles do you put on it annually?

studebaker53 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 03:32 PM

Your not thinking this through !! Leave motor alone. Put your house on market and move to rural part of your state !!!! Get away from traffic.

mln385 · #11 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 05:20 PM

Change the rear gears to keep you in the higher rpms. Probably the most economical.

Gaz64 · #12 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mln385

Change the rear gears to keep you in the higher rpms. Probably the most economical.

Yes, look at rear gears and transmission type and ratios.

A healthy cam can still be easy to live with.

Diff gear ratio change is a good value bang for your dollar.

patrickt · #13 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:15 PM

Don't most BDRs have 3.73 gears back there anyway? I guess you could go up to 3.91, or custom I suppose, and throw in an LSD if it doesn't have it. I dunno, I'd rather just dump an FE under the hood.

14vision · #14 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FredG

I have one for almost 2 years now. It doesn't like low rpms for local driving...below 2k. It reminds me of old time race engines. I set the idle a little higher around 1k and keep the operating rpms for simple cruising around town between 2-3k. If you do that, you will be fine. Its quite impressive when you push it to those higher rpms. Bottom line.....leave the cam and motor alone.

Fred

Thanks Fred and I tend to agree with you.

14vision · #15 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KDubU

I agree with Fred. I would up the idle a bit because swapping cams is going to cost you.

Edited to add, what carb you running and has it been tuned?

Based on what I see on speed fanatix website it looks like a holy 870 street avenger. Car has 100. Miles on it and I bought it at Jonathan Motorsports in NJ and had it shipped down to West Palm Beach.

I am not sure exactly what carb tune is and whether dealer went thought it to that degree or not before shipping.

14vision · #16 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Dang, if you're going to replace the cam, intake manifold, plus dumping the carb and going with EFI, and then crossing your fingers and hoping that it has the manners you're looking for, you might as well just pay blykins to build you a nice, low cost, 390 FE. That's pretty much guaranteed to give you what you want and it'll look just like a $25K side oiler. Just sell your 427R to someone else.

If I was willing to take on something like that I would just sell the car and start over, but I will learn to live with it and enjoy it like others have mentioned.

14vision · #17 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by studebaker53

Your not thinking this through !! Leave motor alone. Put your house on market and move to rural part of your state !!!! Get away from traffic.

Now that’s thinking outside the box for sure. Thanks...

14vision · #18 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Don't most BDRs have 3.73 gears back there anyway? I guess you could go up to 3.91, or custom I suppose, and throw in an LSD if it doesn't have it. I dunno, I'd rather just dump an FE under the hood.

Being it being an RT4 car I thought rear end is now a ford 3.55 differential?

patrickt · #19 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 14vision

Being it being an RT4 car I thought rear end is now a ford 3.55 differential?

I don't know enough about BDRs to say. But a 3.55 would seem to me to be right in the sweet spot for most of our rears. Mine, which is an old Salisbury LSD, is 3.54 and I wouldn't want it any higher nor lower.

saki302 · #20 (**permalink**) 05-03-2020, 07:55 PM

Mine seems fine to me. You just have to be smooth at lower rpms and set the idle around 1-1.1k.

A 427sr would probably be nicer down low, but its not bad as it is. Keep the driving rpms above 1500 and it seems to run quite nice IMO (It prefers to be above 2000).

A stiffer throttle spring may help with smoothness while driving. It's easy to make it buck if you're not really smooth on the gas down low.

-Dave