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4Likes
11-01-2020, 06:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: SoCal,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR build #983, FRM 392
Posts: 380
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Difficulty shifting into first gear
Took the Cobra out for a spin this afternoon and after driving awhile (city traffic), there were a couple of times where, from a full stop, I couldn't get the shifter into first gear or any gear for that matter and times where it was a little difficult but eventually went into first. On the way home, the shifting became easier. Parked it and no problem going into all 5 gears while the car was parked in the driveway. This is on a Tremec T-5 with only 5500 miles on it. Any ideas?
Last edited by SBSerpent; 11-01-2020 at 06:38 PM..
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11-01-2020, 06:55 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby CSX4005LA, Roush 427IR
Posts: 5,571
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Check the clutch fluid level.
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Cheers,
Tony
CSX4005LA
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11-01-2020, 11:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Louisville,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: A&C 67 427 cobra SB
Posts: 2,445
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The clutch is not disengaging or the pilot bearing is dragging. The synchronizer is unable to stop the input shaft from turning, therefore the clutch or pilot drag is stronger than the synchronizer.
As stated, low fluid level, boiling fluid, bad master cylinder, bad slave cylinder, air in the lines, are all possible. If you do a search, you should find approaching a million threads on this subject. Exaggerated? Yes! There are tons of information already written on this.
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11-02-2020, 04:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sparta,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft 1048
Posts: 270
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I had the same problem and it was the clutch slave cylinder
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Gary
Backdraft 1048
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11-02-2020, 08:47 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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Check the trans fluid level. When mine did this, my fluid level was low. Topped it off and the problem went away.
__________________
Jim
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11-02-2020, 12:42 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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Cobra Make, Engine: BDR build #983, FRM 392
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One thing that I should note is that just prior to this occurrence, I had adjusted the clevis on the master cylinder plunger rod to where it connects to the clutch pedal - bringing the pedal closer to the firewall. I will re-adjust it back to where it was before this issue popped up and see if that resolves the problem.
Is it a pilot bearing or a bushing? And if it is indeed dragging, what is the fix for that? Complete removal of the tranny and replacement of the bearing? I'm not hearing any odd noises coming from the bell housing when I depress and release the clutch pedal.
I will check the fluid but when I went underneath the car to inspect the slave cylinder, I did not notice any leaks around it (which I assume would indicate a bad slave cylinder)?
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11-02-2020, 02:26 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genolan
I had the same problem and it was the clutch slave cylinder
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What was the problem with it? Was it something obvious, like a leak?
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11-02-2020, 04:05 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby CSX4005LA, Roush 427IR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBSerpent
What was the problem with it? Was it something obvious, like a leak?
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My HTOB went out and leaked fluid but it never showed up on the ground but the reservoir can was empty...
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Cheers,
Tony
CSX4005LA
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11-02-2020, 10:01 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
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Cobra Make, Engine: A&C 67 427 cobra SB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBSerpent
One thing that I should note is that just prior to this occurrence, I had adjusted the clevis on the master cylinder plunger rod to where it connects to the clutch pedal - bringing the pedal closer to the firewall. I will re-adjust it back to where it was before this issue popped up and see if that resolves the problem.
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Bingo. That's your problem.
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11-03-2020, 06:19 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Harrison,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR, 418
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Clutch issues
I had the same issue...2004 BDR...about 4K. My problem came from the heat the headers throw off. The reservoir is located directly above the headers and the heat "cooked" the fluid....It looked like gooey graphite oil. Once cleaned and refilled problem gone.
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11-03-2020, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48
Check the trans fluid level. When mine did this, my fluid level was low. Topped it off and the problem went away.
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Wow!!! are you serious?
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11-03-2020, 07:26 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbreez
Wow!!! are you serious?
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Yep. Surprised me too.
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Jim
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11-03-2020, 08:24 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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Cobra Make, Engine: BDR build #983, FRM 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48
Check the trans fluid level. When mine did this, my fluid level was low. Topped it off and the problem went away.
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What type of gear oil is used in the trans? Mine still has the original fluid from 2011 with only 5500 miles on it. Would it be the conventional oil or synthetic that Tremec would have put in there?
Full is when the fluid is up to the top fill plug, correct? Worth at least checking the fluid level.
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11-03-2020, 08:35 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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Q: What type of fluid does TREMEC recommend?
A: For all TKO five-speed models, TREMEC recommends TREMEC HP-MTF, GM Synchromesh, or Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. For all other aftermarket models, we recommend Dexron III ATF
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Jim
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11-03-2020, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhv48
Q: What type of fluid does TREMEC recommend?
A: For all TKO five-speed models, TREMEC recommends TREMEC HP-MTF, GM Synchromesh, or Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. For all other aftermarket models, we recommend Dexron III ATF
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Odd. First time that I have seen the use of an ATF in a manual transmission gear box. I'm used to seeing heavy gear oils (i.e. 75W).
So in my case, since this is the original fluid, it can be either conventional or synthetic in the gearbox? Not knowing which one it is, I would probably want to drain and re-fill instead of topping off 'blindly' with a certain type of fluid that might not be compatible with what is in there now.
Any idea as to what the recommended change interval is for this fluid? Also, how much fluid does the transmission take?
Last edited by SBSerpent; 11-03-2020 at 09:20 AM..
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11-03-2020, 11:20 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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A T-5 holds 2.8 quarts. Without knowing what was in there originally, I would drain it and refill with the fluid of your choice as recommended by Tremec.
But first, loosen the fill plug and see if it’s full to just below the threads. If full, then you’ll have to look elsewhere.
Usually, if your clutch is dragging, getting into reverse will always grind. So if reverse is ok, probably not the clutch.
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Jim
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11-03-2020, 03:10 PM
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What about change intervals?
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11-03-2020, 07:02 PM
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Tremec says under normal driving you’ll never have to change it. You’ll probably sell it before you change it.
Others will change it every few years but I’m not one of them.
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Jim
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11-03-2020, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBSerpent
One thing that I should note is that just prior to this occurrence, I had adjusted the clevis on the master cylinder plunger rod to where it connects to the clutch pedal - bringing the pedal closer to the firewall. I will re-adjust it back to where it was before this issue popped up and see if that resolves the problem.
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Have you corrected the pedal adjustment yet?
You have shortened the stroke of the pedal. Most likely you no longer have enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch.
It isn't rocket science. You changed the stroke of the clutch pedal and just after that the problem showed up out of the blue. What's the odds that some other random thing just happened to happen at the same time and caused your problem????
Don't take this wrong, but.... Hey it's your time and dime so go ahead and change as many other things as you wish. I suggest trying at least a dozen other things. That always makes the troubleshooting so much easier, when you goof up a couple more items and make the problem worse.... Sometimes when you look at it from an extreme position, it makes the point much clearer.
Good Luck
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11-04-2020, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddog
Have you corrected the pedal adjustment yet?
You have shortened the stroke of the pedal. Most likely you no longer have enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch.
It isn't rocket science. You changed the stroke of the clutch pedal and just after that the problem showed up out of the blue. What's the odds that some other random thing just happened to happen at the same time and caused your problem????
Don't take this wrong, but.... Hey it's your time and dime so go ahead and change as many other things as you wish. I suggest trying at least a dozen other things. That always makes the troubleshooting so much easier, when you goof up a couple more items and make the problem worse.... Sometimes when you look at it from an extreme position, it makes the point much clearer.
Good Luck
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I agree with you wholeheartedly! I'm a 'process of elimination' person who picks the 'low hanging fruit' first. In this case, as you noted, it is pretty obvious as to what happened here.
Yes, I have re-adjusted the stroke on the pedal to where it was previously. In fact, what I also discovered was that when I did the initial adjustment, I forgot to re-tighten the locking nut such that the pushrod was able to spin freely while driving. I don't know for sure that it turned substantially to reduce the stroke even more, but when I looked at the position of the clutch pedal relative to the brake pedal, it did appear even closer to the firewall than I remember after doing my initial adjustment.
Like I said, readjusted it but have yet to take it out for a test drive.
I will be changing the tranny fluid since I feel its a good idea after 12 years of use....and it's more 'low hanging fruit' and good maintenance practice. I just ordered the Tremec HP-MTF.
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