Cobra Make, Engine: 1989 KCC from South Africa Right Hand Drive
Posts: 1,601
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Leave the roll bars..Make sure there is not too much toe in the front. If the rears are toeing too much they will also cause understeer. Make sure the rears are straight, or if it's really bad and the front doesn't fix it , you can put a little toe out on the rear .
Leave the roll bars..Make sure there is not too much toe in the front. If the rears are toeing too much they will also cause understeer. Make sure the rears are straight, or if it's really bad and the front doesn't fix it , you can put a little toe out on the rear .
I was told to set up the rear tires a little toe in because under acceleration the rear will want to toe out... is this true?
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA 626
I was told to set up the rear tires a little toe in because under acceleration the rear will want to toe out... is this true?
Both the standard and outboard braked rears on ERA cars like 1/16" of toe-in per side. The standard rear is not adjustable for toe, so you have to just cross your fingers that the LCAs give you zero or a hair of toe. The outboard braked rears are adjustable for toe. I never heard the "wanting to toe-out" on acceleration thing. Remember though that the outboard braked rear has an angled-in trailing arm up at the top of the upright as well.
Cobra Make, Engine: 1989 KCC from South Africa Right Hand Drive
Posts: 1,601
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I think he said he has a Backdraft....that's BMW, The BMW suspension should go up and down without altering the toe, an alignment machine should fix it
Cobra Make, Engine: 1989 KCC from South Africa Right Hand Drive
Posts: 1,601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Both the standard and outboard braked rears on ERA cars like 1/16" of toe-in per side. The standard rear is not adjustable for toe, so you have to just cross your fingers that the LCAs give you zero or a hair of toe. The outboard braked rears are adjustable for toe. I never heard the "wanting to toe-out" on acceleration thing. Remember though that the outboard braked rear has an angled-in trailing arm up at the top of the upright as well.
The jaguar rear tow is adjustable at the shims behind the control arm pivot rod mounts at the bottom of the diff. You gotta set it up...it takes a little time.
Leave the roll bars..Make sure there is not too much toe in the front. If the rears are toeing too much they will also cause understeer. Make sure the rears are straight, or if it's really bad and the front doesn't fix it , you can put a little toe out on the rear .
I run a very tiny amount of toe out on the rear of my Formula Ford. I would not recommend it on a street driven car.
I honestly do not understand why people that do NOT have a Backdraft and know nothing about a Backdraft post in a Backdraft thread.
It is no different than if I had a Mustang and went on a Corvette forum and started giving advice on the best suspension setup. Or a guy in a SBF engine thread asks for a good starting point to set his timing and a guy with a Porsche Boxster engine says my timing is set to this. How does that help? .
Because your Factory 5, ERA, SPF, CSX..etc..etc. looks like a Backdraft doesn't mean a thing.
If you have a BMW E36 you know more about how to setup a Backdraft than any other Cobra owner than a Backdraft Cobra owner.. And even then the weight dist in a BMW E36 is fwd bias and not rear bias.
New Backdraft owners read a post from some guy posting in a Backdraft thread that has 2 billion posts and think that that person knows their stuff. Well that person has a solid axle FF5 and he is giving advice on a car he knows absolutely NOTHING about.
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Now, I do remember some of the elves at ERA telling me that rear toe-in is dialed in to help braking, or rather control of the car while braking, but I have never heard of one of our cars accelerating and creating toe-out, whether it's Jag based, BMW based, or Fred Flintstone's feet-driven car. Now, I suppose it could happen, I've just not heard of it, especially if you have squishy suspension components.
Both the standard and outboard braked rears on ERA cars like 1/16" of toe-in per side. The standard rear is not adjustable for toe, so you have to just cross your fingers that the LCAs give you zero or a hair of toe. The outboard braked rears are adjustable for toe. I never heard the "wanting to toe-out" on acceleration thing. Remember though that the outboard braked rear has an angled-in trailing arm up at the top of the upright as well.
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA 626
I have a CSX car
I know, but I spent a good ten minutes looking and I can't find any posts anywhere on the 'net that say acceleration can cause toe out. I think what the elves told me is more in line with the physics of these cars, be they Backdrafts, ERAs, or CSX cars.
I honestly do not understand why people that do NOT have a Backdraft and know nothing about a Backdraft post in a Backdraft thread.
It is no different than if I had a Mustang and went on a Corvette forum and started giving advice on the best suspension setup. Or a guy in a SBF engine thread asks for a good starting point to set his timing and a guy with a Porsche Boxster engine says my timing is set to this. How does that help? .
Because your Factory 5, ERA, SPF, CSX..etc..etc. looks like a Backdraft doesn't mean a thing.
If you have a BMW E36 you know more about how to setup a Backdraft than any other Cobra owner than a Backdraft Cobra owner.. And even then the weight dist in a BMW E36 is fwd bias and not rear bias.
New Backdraft owners read a post from some guy posting in a Backdraft thread that has 2 billion posts and think that that person knows their stuff. Well that person has a solid axle FF5 and he is giving advice on a car he knows absolutely NOTHING about.
There are no doubt elements unique to setting up suspension on a Backdraft or E36 that don't apply to other Cobra replicas. Fair point.
Regardless, there are also many variables involved in setting up a car that are independent of the specific suspension - and which are common regardless of make, model or serial number. It is in this arena where I believe most comments have been directed.
CC is no different than any other forum or social media site - you need to 'sort the wheat from the chaff' when choosing to accept or use any advice given. Stated another way: You usually get what you pay for.
FyI I am not disagreeing with you just would like a tire recommendation that would be better.
To be able to give the best recommendation knowing your wheel sizes helps a lot as all tires are not available in all sizes. But all things being equal
1. Bridgestone RE-71
2a. BFG Rival S 1.5
2b. Falken Azenis RT-660
I am currently running RE-71’s
18x10.5 fronts with 285/30/18
19x11 rears with 305/30/19.
__________________
Kevin......
It isn't how fast your car can go
It is how fast your car can change direction
Alright. I'll begin with the nuts and bolts and work up from that point. I was trusting somebody would say, "Gracious, no doubt. Normal issue. This is the way to fix it."
On Sat, I was a piece disheartened with regards to how inadequately the vehicle took care of during the different activities. In any case, by Sunday evening I was really sort of happy. It constrained me to figure out how to oversee it. Assuming that the vehicle had dealt with impeccably, I probably won't have learned so a lot. www.omegle.fyiwww.bazoocam.fyiwww.chatrandom.one
Last edited by jaxcobhue; 02-10-2022 at 10:02 PM..
Noticed that too Bob. I could compensate the under-steer by using a softer compound on the front and went up in size (275s). I'm running on 28psi, but still experimenting with it.
I'm experiencing a different issue though, which I had from the very beginning. I feel a steering delay from like 9 and 3 o'clock and have to steer further in (up to 6 o'clock to make the car go where i want. No, this is not under-steering, and I also already upgraded all components besides the rack (BD4).
Does anyone experience the same?
There are the mechanical links and fasteners on the rear suspension. You can dial in what you want but there will be some give in the tire sidewalls and no doubt a bit on your suspension linkages so actual settings will change slightly under flex from loading.
The thing about changing needed turning from 9 t0 3 sounds very extreme. It is hard to imagine how this can happen.
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