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 21Likes
11-19-2021, 02:08 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 32
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Update
I found a U mount under the steering wheel, I tighten those bolts and the steering sleeve that was loose tighten right up👍 I ordered 2 new bearings for both ends of the sleeve. I think while I have it all apart I’ll do that upgrade that was posted on here. Hopefully I can figure that out. Still learning here but thanks for all the help. You guys are great. SPM
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11-19-2021, 06:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Danville,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 6079 482CI CSX cross ram
Posts: 1,354
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your problem is the billboard tires... FACT. I had the same issue, I installed better tires (avons) and problem solved... I still cant understand why anyone would run those crap tires... They look cool but horrible tires...
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11-22-2021, 04:26 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Posts: 32
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I agree the Billboards wont drive as smooth as radial tires but the steering wheel shake was happening with my goodyear 17 inch tires on it. So far i was able to tighten that upper steering sleeve, and found the steering wheel bearing disintegrated. Next week i should have all the parts for the beefed up steering linkage to the rack. Cant wait to test drive it and see if its better. Those Billboards are like that real pretty girl you date that you know shes trouble but you have to date for a little while  Maybe AVON’s next? |
11-28-2021, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Received all the parts but when i installed the linkage it seemed to bind on the lower u joint connected to the rack. Its seems like the angle from the upper u joint needs to be higher for it to turn without binding. I checked the invoice, it seems to be the correct u joint. Any ideas Thanks Sean
Last edited by Seanpatrick; 11-28-2021 at 10:09 AM..
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11-28-2021, 10:08 AM
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Ill take some pics when im out there later today.
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11-28-2021, 10:51 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanpatrick
Received all the parts but when i installed the linkage it seemed to bind on the lower u joint connected to the rack. Its seems like the angle from the upper u joint needs to be higher for it to turn without binding. I checked the invoice, it seems to be the correct u joint. Any ideas Thanks Sean
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Are your u-joints phased correctly? see page 7
http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/...d%20Shafts.pdf
also you can loosen the steering rack mounts and tilt it slightly aft and it will pretty much center the lower steering u-joint which pretty much make the upper u-joint the only one bending.
Please post pics.
Last edited by spdbrake; 11-28-2021 at 10:54 AM..
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11-28-2021, 01:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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[ATTACH][ATTACH][ATTACH]  [/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH] It was late and I got frustrated with the new linkage so I put the original linkage back and just went for a test drive. The steering shake is gone. Must have been the loose muffler clamp under the dash or the bearings in the steering rod. But it’s riding great now. I still want to get the new linkage installed. I like the idea of tilting the rack to decrease the angle for that joint. I took some pics of how it was when I installed it last night. Thanks for that post about the phasing I never thought of that. Tilting that rack should do it. Sean |
11-28-2021, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Looks good.
Last thing I'd recommend is adding a divot (with a sanding drum or grinder) to the the ends of the Double shaft, and a drilled divot to the upper splined shaft for the set screws to lock into. Last thing you want is to pull back on the steering wheel and the shafts disengage.
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11-28-2021, 02:50 PM
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I’ll do that once I get the setup figured out. When I loosen the 4 bolts holding the rack, will i be able to rotate it or do I have to do something else. Looks like it should rotate. It would be nice to get it so that lower u joint is straight or close to it. Would you recommend welding those DD’s?
Last edited by Seanpatrick; 11-28-2021 at 02:52 PM..
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11-28-2021, 06:49 PM
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The rack rotates with not a whole lot of effort. Easiest with a deepwell socket and extension slipped over the input spline. As the input shaft tilts aft the distance between the two universals get smaller and you'll have to shave the double-d shaft.
Welding the lower double-d should be fine. I'd skip the upper due to the chance the vibration damper could melt.
I won't be welding mine as I have a heim bearing support in the center.
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11-28-2021, 07:18 PM
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Great, thanks for all your help. I’ll do this tomorrow. I notice those bearings are cheap plastic that are on the steering tube. What you think about putting metal ones in their place. Got to be something better than plastic that could really keep that steering shaft tight. When I take it back apart I’ll mic them and check around. Or maybe I’m over thinking this and live with what they use |
11-28-2021, 08:19 PM
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Yea the BMW shaft bearings are not that great. They are thrust bearings and work better with a face load (sorta like a wheel bearing). If you can have someone push the steering wheel towards the the front of the car with about 10lbs of force (loads the aft bearing) and you slide the tube retainer against the forward bearing as you tighten the set screws. That should remove any axial & radial play in the shaft.
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11-28-2021, 09:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: CCHRISTIANSBURG,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: era 427 side oiler
Posts: 192
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Have you checked your calipers?
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11-29-2021, 07:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Miami,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft #272, 351W
Posts: 165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanpatrick
Its seems like the angle from the upper u joint needs to be higher for it to turn without binding
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Now that you mention it, when I first installed mine the DD shaft was set to far into the knuckle (that attaches to the rack) causing binding. I had to adjust the shaft, so that the knuckle could spin freely.
Last edited by Quentin Z; 11-29-2021 at 07:19 AM..
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11-29-2021, 07:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Miami,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft #272, 351W
Posts: 165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spdbrake
Looks good.
Last thing I'd recommend is adding a divot (with a sanding drum or grinder) to the the ends of the Double shaft, and a drilled divot to the upper splined shaft for the set screws to lock into. Last thing you want is to pull back on the steering wheel and the shafts disengage.
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...and a coat of paint to all (unless you picked up the SS DD shaft). |
11-29-2021, 07:28 AM
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I loosened the 4 bolts and can’t get it to turn. I then loosened the tie rods thinking that might be the reason. No luck Has anyone else tried turning the rack so the lower u joint would have less of an angle.
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11-29-2021, 09:23 AM
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Sean, Can you loosen the hardware enough gap in the pillow block clamps to see if someone over torqued the bolts, distorting the rack tube? (It could be oval shaped)
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11-29-2021, 05:57 PM
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I got it to go aft about 20 degrees which was enough for the u joint to turn without binding. I just tightened everything up and went for a test drive. It’s like a new car. Turns really nice. It was worth the time and frustration to get that new linkage to work. I almost bailed on it. I glad I hung in there and thankful for all your guys guidance. I’ll post some pics when I get a chance. Maybe this could help someone else. Thanks again |
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