Hard clutch pedal

[genolan]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

Gary, The Wilwood slave (pull type) is a 7/8" unit.
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...temno=260-1333
Can you you clarify what you installed?

I have a .75 push slave and want to convert to 7/8 push slave

[spdbrake]

Originally Posted by genolan

Besides replacing the clutch any other methods to reduce pedal pressure? I just put in a new wilwood master and slave .75 bore

Gary, The Wilwood slave (pull type) is a 7/8" unit.
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...temno=260-1333
Can you you clarify what you installed?

If you did install a BDR supplied slave (aka Mazda B2200), this unit should work. Dimensions are listed to compare to your footprint.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...AaAjChEALw_wcB

[Tommy]

As I mentioned earlier, changing the pedal geometry can also help IF that is possible on your car. To decrease pedal pressure (and increase pedal throw) you'd want the foot pad to be farther from the pivot point than the rod to the master cylinder. On some cars that can be done by moving the pivot point, the foot pad or the rod connection point. If moving the pivot point or rod connection point, care must be used to keep the rod going straight into the master cylinder.

[genolan]

Originally Posted by HTM101

A larger master cylinder bore will increase pedal pressure. Pedal pressure to move my RAM pressure plate and single disc clutch has always been leg strengthening. Two months ago I replaced my .75" Girling clutch master cylinder, with a .625" Girling. The pedal effort is now substantially easier.

A Google search on the subject of master cylinder sizes will substantiate my statement. Here is one of them.

https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/master...nce-and-effort

Is this the one you used
Wilwood 260-2636 5/8" Master Cylinder Girling

[genolan]

Originally Posted by HTM101

A larger master cylinder bore will increase pedal pressure. Pedal pressure to move my RAM pressure plate and single disc clutch has always been leg strengthening. Two months ago I replaced my .75" Girling clutch master cylinder, with a .625" Girling. The pedal effort is now substantially easier.

A Google search on the subject of master cylinder sizes will substantiate my statement. Here is one of them.

https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/master...nce-and-effort

Is this the one you used
Wilwood 260-2636 5/8" Master Cylinder Girling

[DanEC]

You need to consider how much pedal swing room you have available. Basically lesser pedal pressure (smaller master cylinder) means longer pedal swing to disengage the clutch. Greater pedal pressure (larger master cylinder) means shorter pedal swing to disengage the clutch. A 3/4” master in my ERA uses just about all the pedal swing available from disengaged to fully engaged. I used a 7/8” MC for awhile which gave me shorter/quicker clutch action but the pedal pressure was higher than I liked.

[HTM101]

Originally Posted by genolan

Is this the one you used
Wilwood 260-2636 5/8" Master Cylinder Girling

I used this Girling that's for use with a remote reservoir.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3502

It's probably best to replace your existing master cylinder with a smaller one of the same style/manufacturer if possible.