Rear pin drive flange, cap removal - Help?

[Kojack70]

I determined I have some slight play in the driver side rear wheel. Either the wheel bearing is shot or the axle nut is loose. I cannot get to the point to check because I cannot figure out how to get the aluminum BDR axle end cap off the peg drive adapter. I tried a small screwdriver, but it's not moving and I'm marring the aluminum cap a little. I don't want to totally destroy the end cap in the process. Anyone have experience with this?

[KarlzEE Bebout]

You could probably remove the pin drive adapter and then use like a hammer handle from the inside of the cap...if I'm understanding your problem correctly.

[Kojack70]

Thanks for the reply. I would agree with you if it were the front pin drives, but its the rear, which are pressed into the bearing and have the axle passing through with a nut on the end. Need to remove the cap to access the axle nut.

[FlyingGumby]

Originally Posted by Kojack70

Thanks for the reply. I would agree with you if it were the front pin drives, but its the rear, which are pressed into the bearing and have the axle passing through with a nut on the end. Need to remove the cap to access the axle nut.

It's definitely an end cap. I recall it having a rubber o-ring and being a very tight fit. Not a press fit but likely gunks up over time. I think I got it off using a hammer and hard plastic fid used to remove interior parts... but you can use hardwood or anything softer than aluminum. Just whack it.

Also, I had an axle nut that was not torqued to spec. Recommend checking both sides.

Good luck.

[Kojack70]

Thank you. I’ll give it a go, maybe try some PB blaster then wack it. With you axle nut not torqued to spec, did you have some play in the pin drive flange? What is the torque spec?

[FlyingGumby]

Originally Posted by Kojack70

Thank you. I’ll give it a go, maybe try some PB blaster then wack it. With you axle nut not torqued to spec, did you have some play in the pin drive flange? What is the torque spec?

By "whack it" I mean tap it hard around the edges until the cap pops off. Just need to catch the seam/edge with something hard that won't cause damage.

Disassembled the rear end to repair rear trailing arm bolts and discovered one side was loose. Don't remember having any play. Don't recall exact torque specs off hand but will see if I can find it. I borrowed a torque wrench capable of 250 ft-lbs for my axle bolts. Some cars have axle nuts that would have different torque specs.

It's not difficult to take thing apart if you need a wheel bearing. Good luck.

[Kojack70]

Well, I had to destroy the cap and order new ones. The aluminum was seized to the steel. Hole saw did the trick. Hate to have to do that. Took me longer to get the damn cap off then replace the wheel bearing. Still curious about the torque spec for the shoulder bolt into the axle.

[FlyingGumby]

Good you were able to get it off.

Can't find the torque specs my archives. I've seen 184-221 ft.lbs online for e36 and e36 M3 respectively. Perhaps others will weigh in. Good luck.