Stopped for no brake lights !!

[G.R.]

Just replaced my hydraulic brake switch. Mine has a typical "T" type brass fitting--this is basically a home plumbing style of fitting. To avoid a real loss of brake fluid when changing out the part I happened to have a brass plug amongst my spare parts/pieces inventory of the the right thread dia. . I removed the old switch, plugged the hole with my finger until I got the plug ready then just inserted it, lost about 2 tablespoons of fluid. Went and got a new switch, reversed the process, installed the new switch, lost just a bit more fluid. Put in about 6-8 tablespoons of fluid to bring it back up to "max" fill level. FWIW

Foosh--how did Jim H wire his switch up? Any Pics?

[clayfoushee]

GR...he posted pics and an explanation on the Unique site:

http://www.uniquecobra.com/topic.asp...s=brake,switch

[tfarhood]

Talked to Regg, the switch is a generic switch - not BMW. He is getting a part number and a source for me.

As for the mechanical switch, I was going to mount a doorbell button behind the pedal, but Jim's refridgerator switch is better. It is better to have the switch release to turn on the light rather than depress. Depressing the switch requires a switch that will contact immediately but still be able to travel with more depression of the pedal. Jim's switch is opposite so extended pedal travel is no problem. I did mount a temp switch made from spring steel and a wire contact that works well because the spring steel will move with the pedal.

[Boudy]

Hi Guys: I also spoke with Reg and he is working out a solution for the bad switches.

Sorry again for the delay, you guys are quick.

Thanks,

Boudy

[Snak Iyz]

Any sense for which BDR numbers are effected OR is this all BDR's??

I am picking up #127 this Saturday and would like to know if I can expect this with mine.

Thanks!!
- Snak Iyz

[G.R.]

Clay, thanks for the info.

[clayfoushee]

Snak

....the pressure switch is a problem not just limited to BDR replicas. Most makes use these generic switches. It's just old technology and they're prone to failure.

GR

you're welcome, but when you close the door to your fridge, how do you REALLY know that the light is off?

[Snak Iyz]

for the clarification.

I will be waiting and interested in seeing what BDR/Reg may do to help those that are experiencing this. Given their great support in the past, I am sure they will step up to it somehow.

- Snak Iyz

[Rogers]

Reg contacted me today with a NAPA part # SL 147, a brake light switch from a VW GOLF years 1986-95. I will have it installed tomorrow to see if it fits. I'll let you guys know....

[Snak Iyz]

Good info. thanks.

I would also be interested in cost of the part as well as the cost to have it installed.

Good luck with the fit.....

- Snak Iyz

[Trueoo7]

Rogers

When you refer to the NAPA part, are you referring to a mechanical switch or a pressure sensitive switch?

Trueoo7

[Junket]

I put a mechanical switch on my ride a couple months ago a Sorensen #SLS62 $4.95 I found with the light cars you were all ready stopped with not enough pressure to make the pressure switch work.
Ken

[Boudy]

Rogers: The part Reg told you about will work fine, according to the catalog. He is installing it today, that's the real test. I'd hold off purchasing one till he's tried it.

Boudy

[Rogers]

OK...Here's the beef....at NAPA if you can find one...they had to get one from the Denver warehouse....I would have to wait 4 days...Echlin part # SL147. Or O'reillys Borg-Warner part # S6108...I haven't seen this part so I can't vouch for it. I got so frustrated on this one I went to a VW, Porsche garage...not a dealer..and got the real deal....in the VW master parts catalog they have part #'s set up like BMW...i.e. 111-111-1111. The switch # is 113-945-515H. They said it's off a beetle or older Jetta and this is actually the switch used for the brake warning light on the instrument cluster. The actual brake light switch is a mechanical one down on the pedal itself. It would be nice for someone..i.e. Backdraft....I'm not mentioning any names...to put together a masterparts list and supply it with every car. I have files on the cars I've built just for this reason. It seems everytime I go to the parts house for this car It's a mystery to everyone...including me. oh....the brake lights are working.

[tfarhood]

Ok, the new switch is in without any problems. NAPA # SL147 is less than $12. I put a plastic cup under the switch and removed it. The fluid only barely dribbles out. I put new switch in. The cup had less than 1/2 teaspoon of fluid in it. A five minute fix and no mess. No need to add fluid or bleed brakes. I will say that a mechanical switch will react faster though. The new switch needs more pressure to activate than a mechanical switch. It is raining at the moment so I can't drive around to see if the switch loosens up any. If it doesn't loosen up, I will probably put a mechanical switch in just so the lights react when you breathe on the brake pedal. I think it will loosen up some though, and should be fine. All in all, no big deal. Not knowing the lights weren't working is the only concern. I would recommend that you check your brake lights for a while. This is not a Backdraft problem, but I think they may have gotten a few defective switches. This is a generic switch, and could have happened to anyone.

Regg, thanks for the fast reply on the part number. As mentioned above, it would be nice to have a master parts list devised for our cars. Even a partial list like brake pads, axle seals, shocks and springs, etc. would be a big help.

Happy motoring.

[clayfoushee]

Tom, Yep....you're dead on right. I've had one fail already, and at the Unique Homecoming about 4 out of 40 cars had no brakelights, and none of them realized it. They learned about it from the cars following them closely behind on the cruise. One guy almost got "climbed on."

Most replicas use these pressure-activated switches......NOT a BDR problem! At some point, I'm gonna put a switch on the pedal similar to what Jim Harding (mentioned above) engineered from a $7 refrig. light switch from Lowes. Cheap back-up insurance.....

[rdorman]

Originally posted by Double Venom



For what ever reason (we're thinking an air pocket inside the switch forms) we have much better success with these switches if we place the connecting pins straight down.

DV... just another, "for what it's worth" post! Did I tell you BDR is coming to Da' Fling in force?

While my lights are working, they don't come on until you really apply some pressure. Under light breaking, no lights. I had been thinking for some time about what DV mentioned concering the air bubble. So this weekend as I was doing my spring maintenence, I rotated the switch so that the hydraulic end was facing upwards. The lights now come on MUCH sooner then they did previously. Seems the little bubble theory is true!

Rick

[ItBites]

I had this type of switch years ago. They fail with regularity and I've gone to a normally closed plunger switch atop the brake pedal arm. Made a little bracket for it and have not had any problems with it for many years.

Also, if the orientation of the pressure switch makes a difference due to a bubble, don't you worry that air is in the system and cannot be bled?

[JayBar]

Junket,
Where did you purchase the Sorensen #SLS62 , an auto parts store or an electrical supply house?

Jay B

[ChuckG]

I was checking mine out this evening so that I can get it inspected tomorrow morning. I also have no brake lights. This is getting frustrating fast. So far I have driven it onto a trailer to tow it 450 miles home and immediately put it into the garage until I could legally drive it after inspection. I really want to drive it this weekend. With as short as summer is in Vermont one can't afford to waste too many weekends.
ChuckG