Slip fit Sidepipes

[oncebitten]

Ok you BDr owners we know we have a rattle or 2 from these slip fit sidepipes as well as exhause leaks. What are you doing about it? Any good ideas out there?

I am just getting around to this problem to fix. So started doing some research.

Measured the header pipe. Is it 1.5 or 1 5/8? I am looking at dynomax exhaust systems and trying figure out what I can do to better fit the beasts to the headers. dynomax offers a strap clamp that would work nicely if we had a larger diameter header.

Looking for input....from all you cobraholics....

[BDRCobra]

The only luck I had was to remove header and sidepipe and find a place with a hydraulic tail pipe expander (Muffler shop) Be carefull to not expand to big. I beleive it is a hair under 1.50". I then coated the inside of the sidepipe with Ultra copper silicone and the male end of the header. Zero noise, no rattling etc. The preferable solution would be to weld flanges on the pipes and headers and bolt together, but the aforementioned was quicker.

[uncltodd]

My mechanics (would you believe I searched a 50-mile radius looking for one- and found TWO at my local Ford dealership?) have a source for what they call "bushings" for the slip-fit joints.

They are familiar with the tail pipe expander but want to find more info on the bushings. I told them to hook up.

When I learn more I will post.

UT

[got snake?]

Originally posted by oncebitten


dynomax offers a strap clamp that would work nicely if we had a larger diameter header.

....

So you're thinking of just using these clamps?

Sid

[oncebitten]

Got Snake,
In addition to the compression springs that come with the car. Still in data gathering mode. Looking for a quick fix without having to remove header and sidepipe to fix.

[Secret Squirrel]

I had a problem after I first installed the sidepipes with the slip joints leaking. CA Cobra told me to cut the weld joints on the inlet side of the sidepipes for a better fit when I first installed them. They went on too easy the first time. I used Exhaust System Sealer (ceramic putty or mud), available at any Auto Parts store. All the sealer blew out when I first started her up. I did get a little backfire here and there, but not much. I was getting soot marks on the pipes and the air cleaner was getting black.
I removed the pipes and used a tailpipe expander and expanded the header pipes for a tighter fit to the sidepipes. I used an exhaust coupler the same size as the sidepipe inlet to use as a guide for sizing the header pipes. That way I didn't have to remove the headers or keep raising and lowering the sidepipes for fitment, Too heavy! Don't make them too tight! Just enough to slide inside the guide freely.
For torque, I used a 1/2" breaker bar and the correct size socket for the expander. It does take a bit of time to work each pipe in small increments (depth) until you get the desired size. Don't try to muscle the expander with one try, it will break the expander or you slip off and damage your car and yourself.
Again, I used the same sealer. I put plenty inside all pipes and had to use a rubber mallet to get the pipes all the way on. I also put some sealer on the outside of the joints. I used a turkey injector with the needle end cut off flat to inject the sealer as much as I could, then used a popsicle stick to push it in around the joints where the needle couldn't reach. I don't have any more leaks and it does sound different with no backfires!
The sealer doesn't cure all the way thru until you run it and heat it up. I found that out a week later! It blows out any excess moist sealant.
Some of the above suggestions were given to me by Frank (Backdraft), Armond (CA Cobra) and the rest I figured out myself.
Hope this helps.

[Dennis Kelley]

Weld them. I wish someone made a flange type header for BDR. After this summer I might take mine off and use them as a template for a custom header. heck I might even start selling them I think there is a market for them LOL.

Later Dennis

[Excaliber]

I just finished putting my motor back in, thank God the sidepipes weren't welded!!!

[Dennis Kelley]

Exclaibur has a good point but the motor will still come out on a 302 car with the joints welded just unbolt the headers and pull it. Its not pretty but it works. I still think someone should build an appropriate flange (bolt) header.

[oncebitten]

Dennis,
I to have been contemplating going down the custom route. I was thinking of sending dynomax the headers and sidepipes and see what they suggest.

[uncltodd]

The "bushings" thing looks promising... stay with me.

My sidepipes sound like caca since I replaced the exh man gaskets.

UT

[Dennis Kelley]

hey Oncebitten,

I think I can get through the summer with the header but they do need to be redesigned. I was thinking of a fabricator that did a set of header for my buddies mustang that had a chevy (cough) motor in it. He came to the garage and did them at the garage. It was expensive but worth the money. Mine are not leaking now but who knows. My welding is not show quality just effective.

later Dennis

[Dwight]

I used 2 or 3 short stainless #10 screws hold the pipes together. But a couple of months ago I made flanges and welded onto the headers and side pipes. Took about 5 or 6 hours. Last week I welded flanges on Colin's Shell Valley headers and side pipes. He paid a local mechanical shop $7 each for the four flanges. We had to drill the 5/16" holes to bolt the flanges together. Looks good and works.

[Snakester]

My sidepipes leaked and made a terrible vibrating noise from day 1. I used an exhaust pipe expander to make the pipes fit tighter and then I used 4 -21/2"
stainless steel springs on each side. I got the springs from a local fastener supply co. @$2.00 each. They were really difficult to install , but no more leaks or rattles and did not have to weld the pipes!
Snakester

[Blittleton]

Gentlemen, I have several sets of flanges for BDR header and sidepipes. Check out my website store, or give me a call.

Bill

[Sledge]

And the flanges (from Bill Littleton) work great!