No Clutch - Page 2

cobrak · #21 (**permalink**) 07-25-2005, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cashburn

What clutch, bellhousing, transmission are you using? Also if you could snap a pic of the cylinder/reservoir they installed... we are seeing a new setup on our latest car.

Cashburn;

If you are refering to car number 266, They put in a special hydrolic clutch for me in order to increase leg room.

Cobrak

madmaxx · #22 (**permalink**) 07-25-2005, 11:54 AM

Bill, do you think the failure is related to under hood temperatures caused by the headers? I do not want to install another one to cook it. Besides removing the headers and wrapping them or getting ceramic coating does the insulating sleeves on the brake line work very well.

Thanks

Blittleton · #23 (**permalink**) 07-25-2005, 12:17 PM

Madmaxx, I haven't done any studies on the matter, but it does seems to happen. I have now ceramic coated headers and I haven't had any problems. I would think insulating the brake lines and clutch cylinder would help, too. I hope this helps.

Bill

Cashburn · #24 (**permalink**) 07-25-2005, 05:37 PM

Cobrak,
That's the one. Different reservoir, must be the extra "engineering" ...

As for the heat situation, we have not seen a problem yet on cars with ceramic coated headers, however we have a heat shield on "the list of things".

got snake? · #25 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 05:45 AM

I'll like to see some heat shields...That would help out a lot. Still can't get a bolt in one of the holes for the headers. Got exhaust leak there and of course in the pipes. Does anybody know if its true that BDR is going back to Flange fittings for header and sidepipes?

Sid

Cashburn · #26 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 08:46 AM

Sid,
What hole can you not get a bolt in on the header.

BTW you must use 1inch long header bolts with a hex head (ARP).

got snake? · #27 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 10:01 AM

I'm using 1in bolts but with a 5/16 head on it. I'll take a picture of the one hole I can't get it in. Its on the Pass side 2nd one from the rear. the bends are way too tight! They did not pinch them to help get the bolts in. I may try to see if Reg can send me a better set. I tried using a 3/4in bolt on the driver side and I got it in but it is not grabbing any threads. But it is holding on some how.

Sid

madmaxx · #28 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 12:39 PM

got snake,

Had the exact same problem with the exact same hole. I installed that bolt first and then the rest. Used the arp bolts. I eventually got it, no more leak. Remeber to retorque after a couple of heat cycles.

got snake? · #29 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 02:33 PM

I'll give that a try! Thanks didn't even think of doing that. I'm looking also at getting stage 8 bolts so they won't back out.

http://www.stage8.com/

tfarhood · #30 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 03:36 PM

I used the Stage 8 bolts on mine. They are worth the extra cost because they work! I also started with 2 or 3 bolts in the holes before getting the headers completely in place. It is tight fitting but can be done. I also ran a file on the edge of two holes to let the bolt enter on an angle for it to fit, it only needs a little help to work.

got snake? · #31 (**permalink**) 07-28-2005, 03:39 PM

I have the headers on the car and its a "Bi..." to get them out. It was a pain getting them in but I figured if I could just plug it up for now I can pull them off over the winter...

madmaxx · #32 (**permalink**) 07-29-2005, 12:09 PM

stage 8 has an interesting concept. I believe but may be wrong the gasket is compressing and that is what causes the bolts to get loose. So your bolt will not get loose by "backing" out. I retorqued mine about 3 times and now they are always tight. Maybe I am wrong, like the concept and the price is not bad. I guess to check torque you take off the locking device and try to tighten.

got snake? · #33 (**permalink**) 08-08-2005, 10:23 AM

Back to the clutch issue...Slave went out on me on I-355 heading to Starved Rock! Fluid everywhere. It's leaking like crazy. Had to shift without the clutch all the way home!

Called Craig. Should be handled. ANYBODY GOT A PART NUMBER FOR THE blead valve facing up? Please post here with the part number for NAPA or whoever.

Sid

tfarhood · #34 (**permalink**) 08-08-2005, 06:46 PM

The slave cylinder with the bleeder valve facing up is S1031 from New Generation Clutch systems. It is probably the same number on most aftermarket OEM spec slaves. I got mine from a local parts supplier comparable to NAPA. The part number was either one number higher or lower from the number of the 1990ish Mazda B2200 pick-up (bleeder valve pointing down).