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No Clutch
After installing the clutch slave I went to bleed the lines, but there was no pressure at all? However, I can only find one resevior which is in front of the booster for the brakes. Where is the clutch resevior? Also, anyone know what dot numbers is being used?
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Jeff,
Follow the braided line to your slave cylinder back up to the engine compartment and determine where the reservior is located. You may need another person to help you trace the path and destination of your supply line. Clois |
It should be on the other side of the firewall, close to your pedal box..
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It is behind the master cylinder. Use a turkey baster to carefully fill the clutch master cylinder. Do not get any brake/clutch fluid on your paint or car.
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Jeffko,
If your slave cylinder has the bleed valve pointing down, you will not be able to get all the air out without taking the slave off the bellhousing first. If you have to do that, use a large C-clamp to hold the slave piston in while you bleed the line. My original slave was like that and I have since found a replacement slave that was a mirror image of the original so the bleed valve could point up. The problem is solved. To fill the reservoir, get a small syringe to fill it with. When bleeding the line, only pump the pedal 3 times. You will need to re-fill the reservoir again before you bleed it any more or you will just suck air again and have to start over. P.S. I have the "push" style slave. |
Found it! It was tucked way back behind the brake assist. I will need a turkey baster and a small hose. sheezz Hey what dot number is recommended for BDR clutches? Is the system BMW? Thanks guys, you are a great help.
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DOT 3 or 4, but DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC.
Clois |
Let me second Clois's comment about NOT using DOT 5. I thought that since it cost 10 times the price of DOT 3, it must be awesome! Since I used it, I've had to replace my master and slave clutch cylinders. Stick with good old DOT 3.
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To answer your other question: No, the clutch system is not BMW. The master is Willwood/Rover (available from Summit) and the slave (push type) is a Mazda B2000/2500 truck (available from any decent auto parts store for a fraction of the cost at Mazda).
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You guys are awesome.
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Instead of starting a new thread....
My clutch is not fully engaging. I know it is the slave. I got it adjusted just enough to work but not very well. Besides stepping into the Pull type set up is there an easy solution to get more adjustablity? Is there a replacement Slave that would work the same but have a have longer piston in the slave so it won't pop out? I just don't like the idea of having it right on the edge of adjustment. CASHBURN got any input buddy? How do you guys get yours to work? Sid BTW I have posted a pic of my dyno sheet in my gallery... |
Sid
Did you adjust your slave cylinder adj rod? Adjust your clutch fork toward the back of your motor. Did you check into your clutch master cylinder? I remember yours leaking a little. Bill |
Master cylinder is not leaking anymore that I see.
I was up on the rack engaging the clutch while guys below where looking at the fork movement. I have good movement. But to get the car to engage with ease in needs to move out about another 1/8. We got that 1/8 by using a prybar while i try to get it into gear. I guess I need to just keep playing with it. It did not pop out when we moved it with the pry bar so I guess thats what I have to do. Wow I think i just solved my problem! Just want to drive this thing without worrying so much! Sid |
These seem to be a problem for many. I've read thread after thread about them. I'm on my third. The rod came out on my first and wedged itself. I learned the hard way that no one local will tow my car. The second developed a leak. The third was doing great for a few runs and started loosing presure after a long run. The fluid was boiling and absorbing too much air. I went with a dot 4 600 degree fluid and wrapped the lines directly above and along the headers with a radiant heat tape. Knock on wood.
Scott |
What clutch, bellhousing, transmission are you using? Also if you could snap a pic of the cylinder/reservoir they installed... we are seeing a new setup on our latest car.
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Both Sid and I are using Spec clutch, stock aluminum bellhousings and Tremec TKO transmission. I would like to see the pictures when you get a chance. Thanks
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Aluminum Bell housing that Forte Sells. Pretty sure It's made by tremec... Clutch fork is standard one I got from Forte also it is whatever year Reg recommended...
I got to take a lot of pictures! Sid |
Got the pics...to lazy tonight to put them in my gallery. MY CLUTCH IS FIXED! THANKS TO Rich M.! I was afraid to really push my car but tonight I jumped on it a few times and did not have to worry about it not letting me shift. Now it really feels like a cobra!
I need to adjust the pedal now since my engagement point is really high. I don't even have to go nearly as far to get it to release. pics to follow. I have pics of the new lower control arms also. I'll post those too. Sid |
Has anyone seen there clutch master cylinder leak a couple drips inside the car. Mine drips about 3 times a drive. I guess my clutch master cylinder is shot?
Thanks |
Yes, it is shot. I had one with the same problem. Reg sent me another one or you can get a wilwood at summit racing. I don't have the part # off hand but someone on this forum does.
Bill |
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