starter button delay

madmaxx · #1 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 07:06 AM

Hi everyone,

Sometimes when I go to start my engine I have to hold down the starter button for about 4 seconds before the starter engages other times it is immediate. I watch the voltage gauage and no dip happens before the starter turns. Do you guys think it is the button or relay, or has anyone else experienced this. Once the starter engages the engine starts imeadiately. I guess it could be the starter solenoid but once again I see no drop in voltage and when I do the engine starts.

Thanks

Ron61 · #2 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 07:18 AM

When you first push the starter button, can you hear if the relay engages? If not, put a voltmeter at the solenoid and see if you have the 12 volts there when you push the button. It could be just a worn button contact. By it being intermittant, I would check that the button contacts haven't burned or worn first. If you have the voltage at the solenoid immediately after pushing the button, then it would point to the solenoid. If not, then either the relay or button or possibly a loose wire or connector.

Ron

madmaxx · #3 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 07:50 AM

Thanks Ron,

I know my headlight relay clicks when I flash the lights, should the starter relay also make an audible noise. I guess one thing I could do is jump the switch the next time it does it. I see no voltage dip and the instant I do the starter turns it starts.

It would be embarrasing but if I got stranded I would have someone push start me (haha).

Ron61 · #4 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 08:54 AM

If you have the relay close you can hear it click but it won't be loud. That is why I said put a volt meter at the solenoid lead and see if you get voltage there when you push the button. Ifyou do, the button and relay are working. If not, then it could be the relay or the button that has bad contacts. And of course check for the proverbial loose connections between the button, relay, and solenoid. Also be sure that you have voltage to the button.

Ron

uncltodd · #5 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 02:38 PM

I just put the 3rd starter on Gunrack yesterday.

Starter #1 was a new Delco, failed at 19 miles.

Starter #2 was an Autozone rebuilt, failed at 2200 miles. (While I was out of town, naturally)

Starter #3 is a NAPA with a national guarantee.

I believe your hesitation is in the starter/solenoid.

Every Ford I owned before had a solenoid inside the fender well right behind the battery, but this little she-dog has an integral starter/solenoid.

Twice the trouble for twice the price.

Good luck, Brudda.

UT

madmaxx · #6 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 02:44 PM

My starter looks like the new permanent magnet type. Funny how the 17 year old starter *(mercruiser) in my boat that has been underwater twice (salt water no less and beer once) still cranks.

I am guessing its the relay hopefully it is.

DAVID GAGNARD · #7 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 04:56 PM

I would check the starter button first and then check the easiest things to get to in that order.........BTW,I have an Auto Zone ($19.95 special) starter on my 351-W since 1994 and it has not failed me YET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,but for 19.95,I'd say I got my money's worth...............

David

tfarhood · #8 (**permalink**) 06-08-2005, 05:54 PM

It is probably the solinoid.

Uncltodd, I can't believe your luck with starters. My starter came off my 1972 Ford 302 that I used for my initial build. It has a separate solinoid, not integral. That 1972 original factory starter is the strongest starter I've seen. It would crank a big block with 12:1 compression with no problem. Best of all, it was basically free! 1 year, 6000 miles, and hundreds of starts, and still going!

madmaxx · #9 (**permalink**) 06-10-2005, 07:51 AM

I took the start button apart. It consist of a slide plate and an insulator. When you push the button it slides a box inside the switch box that contains the a slide plate. It pushes the slide plate until the two dimples are exposed to a copper bar and bingo it makes the connection. Not much that can go wrong. I will check the price of a starter relay.

Ron61 · #10 (**permalink**) 06-10-2005, 01:57 PM

If it were me, I would take a voltmeter and see where I am losing voltage before I just started changing things. If you have voltage through the switch when you press it, then go to the next point and see if it is there. If you have it at one side of the relay and not the other then the relay winding is open. If you measure on the contact of the relay that feeds voltage to your solenoid you can tell if it is operating or not. Or you can go to the solenoid input and measure there and it will tell you if the relay operated. A remote starter button is also an easy way to check the solenoid and starter.

Ron