BDR Broken U Joint?

BUCKEYE COBRA · #1 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 07:16 AM

Looking any any tips to replace a rear u joint (at the brake hub).

Experienced a loud banging under driver side rear while driving home from a parade yesterday. I first thought I had dropped a drive shaft. I pulled over and could not find anything hanging from the bottom (not that you can see much without a lift..).

I was able to nurse it home (2 - 3 miles). After pulling the rear driver side wheel, I noticed that I could slide the axle back and forth 2 inches. When I rotate the axle it bumps once per revolution right where the u joint is.

Haven't had time to look at it close yet. It there any secret to removing the rear assy?u joint boot?

I need to get fixed quick as the Good Guys car show will be here this weekend.

Thanks,
John

CSCHWER · #2 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 07:37 AM

Sounds like you are talking about the CV joint. The best thing to do is to order a complete drive shaft. I can scan the directions and send them to you if this is the problem.
Chet

BUCKEYE COBRA · #3 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 03:25 PM

Chet,
I'll know later tonight (if I get home in time to wrench on it). I spoke to a buddy who sells BMW's. They have never had a CV joint break in the rear. Just my luck.......They sugested to replace the complete drive shaft also.
I might take you up on your offer.
Thanks,
John

tfarhood · #4 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 04:29 PM

with all the talk about open rear vs limited slip, now might be the time to search the BMW forums for a used limited slip rear w/ axles. It may cost less than a new axle, and may give you a better final drive if you have the standard 3.10 rear end now. Just a thought. Good luck.

BUCKEYE COBRA · #5 (**permalink**) 07-06-2005, 03:58 AM

tfarhoood,
It looks like my CV joint is OK. Something went south in my parking brake hub. I believe this is a smaller problem??
I hope I can locate a "star" socket so I can pull my hub off tonight.
John

tfarhood · #6 (**permalink**) 07-06-2005, 04:43 AM

John, you shouldn't need a star socket to pull the brake disk off. I think all you need is a 15mm wrench and socket for the caliper and a 4.5mm allen wrench for the set screw that holds the disk to the hub. Taking the wheel off takes longer than taking the disk off. My car had original e-brake shoes in it. After a year of use, the brake material started crumbling off the shoe. I got new shoes on e-bay for a song. Seems like it should have been changed when they re-built the rear, but they probably looked ok back then. Hell, technically e-brakes should never wear out.
Let us know what you find.

Cashburn · #7 (**permalink**) 07-06-2005, 06:38 AM

John,
We had one right off the boat that we needed to reassemble the small parking brake drum. If you pull the wheel and the disc/hub you will likely find the problem immediately.

madmaxx · #8 (**permalink**) 07-06-2005, 07:19 AM

My ebrake did not even work when I first got the car. I had to adjust them. After adjusting I witnessed the same noise as you describe. It was comming from the passenger side. I inspected and determined the cable would not retract.

BUCKEYE COBRA · #9 (**permalink**) 07-08-2005, 03:56 AM

Guys,
Right u are... When I pulled off my hub, the parts from the ebrake fell to the floor.
Big relief that it was a "minor" issue. I was back on the road that night (less a parking brake).
Does anyone know where I can get a brake diagram? rebuild kit? or should is this best left to a bmw repair shop.
Thanks for the advise.
John B

rob frink · #10 (**permalink**) 07-08-2005, 04:35 AM

stinkin' ebrake! U don't need no stinkin' ebrake!

tfarhood · #11 (**permalink**) 07-08-2005, 04:40 AM

John, if you have ever changed drum brake shoes on a car before, this should be easy for you. If not, it still isn't hard but you may not have that comfort level to be at ease. The toughest part about the replacement isn't the parts, but rather the adjustment of the shoe pressure. The cable adjusters are inside the shifter boot, but they have limited adjustment. The real problem is that the e-brake handle doesn't have optimum travel/leverage, therefore the shoe adjustment inside the drum must be set as snug as possible before putting the rotor back on the hub. My e-brake still needs to be re-adjusted after the new shoes have set-in, but I'm just too lazy lately to do it.
As for a diagram, just pull the other side off, it is a mirror image of the other one.
You can get new shoes from BMW or you can shop e-bay and save a little. Just look for E-36 e-brake shoes. If I find my paperwork, I'll post the part # and the phone # where I got mine. Good luck.

tfarhood · #12 (**permalink**) 07-08-2005, 05:00 AM

Here is one I found.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...985308240&rd=1

Here's another.

http://www2.pitstopautoparts.com/par...Brake+Shoe+Set

with...

http://www2.pitstopautoparts.com/par...hoe+Spring+Kit