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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2006, 05:16 AM
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Default Just Received #390

This is the first of many questions, because you seem like a knowledgeable bunch.
A little background first. I'm helping my boss put together this car. The motor is a built 351w. I'm not sure the exact c.i, but it is said to put around 500 hp to the crank. It came out of a jet boat if that's important at all. The tranny was ordered from Reg, and is a TKO 600. My first question is about the parts in between the two. We need to order the flywheel, bellhousing, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and all associated linkage. The cr is mainly a street cruiser, with the occasional trip to the drag strip. Ease of use and reliability is a must!!! Our budget is not really a factor, but we don't want to break the bank either. We know that good parts cost money, so any info would be appreciated. I am prepared to shop around, but the car is waiting for these parts to begin assembly. Part numbers and prices would be helpful.
Time is ticking!!!
Joey Valdez
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Old 06-25-2006, 08:46 AM
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Congrats! Another BDR in the Northwest! Someone here had IM'd me and sent me a parts list. I tried to find it but can't. I am sure someone will chime in here. You are going to have so much fun!
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Old 06-25-2006, 01:30 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: BDR 187 Prism Red w/Silver stripes; 427 stroker by Smeding Performance, Tremec TKO600 gearbox
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I have the same setup, so I'll list what I used (prices are approximate):

Mcleod steel bellhousing, Mcleod p/n 8660-B $275
Mustang fork, 1" extra length, Mcleod p/n 16924 $124
Mustang adjustable ball stud, Mcleod p/n 16909 $43
Adjustable length throwout bearing, Mcleod p/n 16515 $62
Ford Performance clutch pressure plate, Ford p/n M-7563-C302 $139
Ford Performance clutch disk, Ford p/n M-7550-T302 $159
Ford flywheel to crankshaft bolts, don't have p/n or price
Pull-type slave cylinder from CNC, Inc., website: www.cncbrakes.com $60

My flywheel came with the engine, so I don't know where to get it from, but the specs are:

157 tooth
10.5" face diameter
13.25 outside diameter
Small block Ford bolt pattern

Notes:

1. McLeod parts were ordered directly from McLeod. Ford parts from the local Ford dealer. BTW, the tech support guy at McLeod is very knowledgable and helpful. His name is Red Roberts.

2. Do not substitute anything for the Ford flywheel bolts. They're too important to skimp on.

3. Very important! Flywheels from Ford use metric threads for the pressure plate bolts. Aftermarket flywheels usually use English threads. Make sure of what you have when buying the bolts. I learned the hard way, and now I have metric bolts cross-threaded into Engilsh holes.

4. I used a pull-type slave with one end mounted to the engine mount flange on the frame. (You need to notch the bellhousing flange to do this.) That is because a push-type slave and bracket won't clear the transmission tunnel in my car. I am told that newer BDRs have more clearance, and that you can use a push-type slave, even with the larger diameter steel bellhousing. Somewhere on this forum there is a thread that discusses it. I think posted on it, so searching my recent posts may help you to find it.

5. The input shaft on the TKO600 has 26 splines, unlike other Tremecs that have 10. If you get a different clutch disk than what I recommended, make sure it has the right number of splines.

6. The "B" suffix in the bellhousing part number was a special deal. McLeod had some bellhousings that were blemished and couldn't be certified with SFI stickers. McLeod was selling them at a pretty good discount. If you're going to drag the car, you may be required to have the stickers, so you'll need the same part without the "B".

7. I trimmed around 1.25" off the flange on the bottom of the bellhousing to improve ground clearance. It probably wouldn't pass a safety inspection at a drag track that way, though.

8. Last, and probably most important, with this powerful a drivetrain and plans for drag racing, it is very important that you use a steel scattershield bellhousing, rather than an aluminum one. Your legs will thank you if something ever goes wrong.

Hope this helps. I'm sure this is not the only way to go. Others may have different opinions.
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Old 06-26-2006, 03:45 AM
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Thanks round midnight, that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Why did you go with the 10.5 clutch as opposed to a full 11 inch. Also, considering the new BDR's tunnels are bigger, will the slave they send me be able to finish of the system, besides the fork that is, or will I need some other small parts. Please post up any other setups you guys have tried. knowledge is power!
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:50 AM
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I went with what was recommended to me where I purchased the car (CA Cobra, now defunct), but I'm not sure an 11" disk would work with my flywheel. Anyway, I didn't know it was an option.

If it will clear the tunnel, the slave and bracket supplied with the car will work, I believe. You can just drill some holes in the bellhousing to mount it. I was going to do just that until I was told that it wouldn't fit. I would suggest that when mounting the bracket that you tap the holes in the bellhousing and thread the bolts through from the inside and secure them with Loctite. Then if you need to remove or adjust the bracket, you can just loosen the nuts and retighten them without having the bolts turn.
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Old 06-28-2006, 01:04 PM
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any other setups
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