throttle sticking

timhorr · #1 (**permalink**) 09-09-2006, 04:47 PM

any ideas on what maybe catching the trottle...when driving at 5k RPM my throttle got stuck..carpet wasnt holding the peddle down so i turned off the motor at ~60mph and restarted while gliding...waited ~10 seconds, restarted and it was still stuck...stopped engine again...glided maybe another 5-10 seconds..then restarted and NO stick...any thoughts??

pmfranke · #2 (**permalink**) 09-09-2006, 07:34 PM

sombody told me about electricty going threw the throtl cable in a poorly grounded engine which caused sticking at different rpms. just a guess.

Rick Parker · #3 (**permalink**) 09-09-2006, 08:08 PM

Check your throttle cable for fraying. It could be a dangerous situation. Maybe plug wires near throttle linkage at carb. Or linkage rubing on the bottom of the air cleaner. Park it until problem is found and solved.

SACoupe · #4 (**permalink**) 09-10-2006, 11:17 AM

I had the same problem with mine.............A quick squirt of WD40 on the Lingkage directly above the pedal and a small bend stopped it in its tracks..
What wa shappening was that sidewayus poressure from my foot when toe and heeling was slowly bending the accelorator and causing the arm of the linkage to bind where it goes from vertical to Horizontal on its mount under the dash.
Hope this helps.

Blittleton · #5 (**permalink**) 09-10-2006, 11:28 AM

I would agree with SACoupe. Check to see if the throttle pedal has tightened on you. Try to loosen it by a 1/4 turn on the nut.

Cashburn · #6 (**permalink**) 09-10-2006, 08:23 PM

What do you have for a return setup? How many springs and how strong?

sfeakes · #7 (**permalink**) 09-11-2006, 08:28 AM

I have had the same problem a few times. it was exactly as SACoupe said.
I shouldn't happen sine the nut is a nylon locking nut, but after it happened a few times to me, I pulled the whole pedal assembly apart, greased it (BTW it was not greased from the factory) and used threadlock on the nut, and it hasn't happened since.

timhorr · #8 (**permalink**) 09-11-2006, 09:01 AM

thx for the advise...car only has 800 miles on it so i dont think it "wear" issues arent a concern...but pedal "feels" fine (not to tight)...i'll give the DW40 a shot..

JagOrlando · #9 (**permalink**) 09-11-2006, 01:52 PM

I had mine stick at lower RPM's. The way the linkage pulled on the double return springs caused them to close together. I installed a taller bracket for the springs giving it a more linear pull.

madmaxx · #10 (**permalink**) 09-11-2006, 02:07 PM

Tim,
how do you like the car? Was it represented accurately?

Philip Messer · #11 (**permalink**) 09-14-2006, 12:12 PM

Same throttle sticking problem with BDR #101. I inserted a copper tubing sleeve (5/8-in diameter and ablout 3 inches long) between the two concentric springs that tension the throttel arm on the carb. This prevented the springs from getting interlocked. I also worked powdered graphic into the throttle cable. No problems since!

timhorr · #12 (**permalink**) 09-14-2006, 12:57 PM

the care is very nice..have had it out a couple times, now that the texas heat is letting up...really like the 392, but i think it needs to be tuned...higher rpms its coughing...trunk door needs some adjustment (i need to lean on it pretty hard to get it shut)..but i got a great car for a nice price

uncltodd · #13 (**permalink**) 09-15-2006, 12:55 PM

Timhorr, I change oil, filter, and air filter every 1K miles.

The oil and filter are always clean, but the air filter is always FILTHY!

A high-revving 351W sucks down an ungodly amount of air, contaminants and all. A dirty trick I use:

Engine warmed up at idle, note the idle RPM. Jerk the air cleaner off. If idle picks up more than 100RPM, then your Baby is trying to suck air through a pillow. My personal observation only.

BTW, had some throttle linkage hangup problems when we went to the larger Holley, it got better when we smoothed out the cable travel, no sharp bends, that sort of thing.

Like the old TV ad said, "This isn't your father's Buick."

Hey, BackDraft Cobras are hand-built race cars with turn signals and brakelights.

Sometimes.

UT

Hank Steckel · #14 (**permalink**) 09-15-2006, 03:53 PM

Timhorr,
I have a Lokar brand throttle cable in my BDR. It is intolerant of any bends. In my installation, the cable comes straight from the carb, through the firewall, then in a huge arc to the pedal. If I use a cable tie to "neaten it up" under the dash, the throttle returns very slowly. I can reach under the dash and pull gently on the cable which will cause it to hang up a little (not as bad as yours sounds). Bicycle shops and Motorcycle shops have dry cable lubes which would probably cure your problem, but you'll have to remove the cable to properly lube it. I've been thinking of doing mine.

Hope that helps.

Hank
San Diego

JayBar · #15 (**permalink**) 09-16-2006, 10:33 AM

If it turns out your cable is frayed an easy and cheap replacement is to get a brake cable from a bike shop. In fact if you want to get a housing and increase the radius buy brake cable housing also. They sell it by the foot. It is black not covered in stainless steel like the Lokar cable but works just fine.

SkipB · #16 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 06:12 PM

Hank,

I never knew you had a sticky throttle problem! Let's get together and see if mine is routed differently than yours. I don't have any problem with mine.

I did originally have it with the Barry Grant carb that I had Armond put on when it was new. When we found out it came with a warning about linkage problems that can cause it to stick wide open (happened once to me), I immediately got rid of it and switched to a Holley Street Avenger. What carb do you have? Is it a Barry Grant?

See you soon. Are you going to the Coronado races?

SkipB

Cashburn · #17 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 07:34 PM

The Lokar cable with the stainless/braided cover seems to be less reliable than the cheaper Hi-Tech style with the plain black cover. Have seen the fancy ones break sooner as well.... where's Tom?