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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2006, 11:19 AM
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Default oops, failed inspection...parking brake

just went to get my inspection and failed due to parking brake...is there a quick fix to tighten

Last edited by timhorr; 09-25-2006 at 08:30 PM..
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:28 AM
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If it is just loose, there is a manual adjustment slot in the backing plate. I got in there with a screwdriver but you should probably use a brake adjuster tool. Can't help you if it is cable slack.
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:31 AM
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I would take a break while they fix your brake.




Had to say it!!!!


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Old 09-25-2006, 12:39 PM
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On my car, which has BMW rear brakes, you adjust it via one of the wheel lug holes which can be aligned with a star adjuster. Remove a lug and rotate the hub until you can access the star adjuster. You stick a screwdriver through the hole and move the star adjuster.

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Old 09-25-2006, 02:00 PM
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Try removing the leather cover at the handle and taking up slack at the cables at the lever. If that does not do it then you need to get under there and adjust the mind-drums the way Mr. Magoo points out.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:34 PM
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Default brake

removed the boot and there is no room left for tightening...i guess crawling under the car is next...surprised only 900 miles on the car...the right cable seems much loser than the left
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Old 09-26-2006, 01:01 PM
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well, not pretty but effective...i put about 1 inch worth of washers between the base and the bottom nut...got me past inspection...but i won't be parking on a side street in San Francisco anytime soon..
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Old 09-26-2006, 02:06 PM
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Timhorr, the voice of experience.

I "tightened" the cable to the E-brake with 1/4 inches of washers at the lever, it actually worked for a while. It held the car. I thought it was just "slack."

Then I had to pay for a total replacement of the BMW E-brake system after it fried itself internally.

I don't know BMW, obviously.

My current E-brake will kinda, sorta keep the car from rolling downhill while I start it.

That was well over a year ago. My mechanic told me that "the cables are too short." Haven't used it since, really.

A flaw from Durban on #139, maybe?

Too bad I didn't know about "mid- (mind?) drums when I took delivery. I was told that "The E-brake doesn't work worth a flip, get used to it."

Sorry, Cash, another dealer, well before your time.

Yeah, I'm a little bitter. I say "Boudy" and the lights go out.

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Old 09-26-2006, 04:37 PM
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Typo by me should have been "mini" drum brakes. Put those T-Shirts on and have a cold one. Wedge the empty can under the rear tire on minor inclines
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:09 PM
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Roger that, Jay, waiting for the new T-shirts, have a Homecoming parade coming up next week, time to smoke another clutch, my grand-daughter is worth it.

This year's graduating class has many "empty cans" that could be wedged under the rear tire, but most of them are on the football team and would be missed within a few short days.

At least I can keep the BBQ ribs toasty hot by wrapping them in foil and strapping them on top of the old-style BDR slip-fit header-sidepipe exhaust joints.

A cheap shot, but I paid dearly for it, not your fault, Brudda.

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Old 09-28-2006, 12:33 PM
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Timhorr

Had the same problem with 12?, disappointing to see chassis 323 and they have not figured it out. I removed the tire and drum over the emergency brake, had to remove the caliper also. I did not know about mrmagoo method. You are right about one cable being too short. in the end my right side brake held the load, regardless of how much adjustment and iterations i got it to work but not perfect. The brake had to wear in a little but once it did it worked. I sent an email to Tony about this over a year ago, I thought they would have addressed it, BDR does not realize customer that have 40-50k to blow on the car may not have been a mechanic in a previous life.
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