Oil Cooler Re-Installation

[Philip Messer]

BDR #101 took a front end hit from a Phoenix trash truck back in May. Reg ordered a new front end that is now on the Cobra and all looks great! I am re-installing the oil cooler, radiator, sidepipes, etc. Upon completion, I do not want to start the engine without oil throughout the system. I feel I can fill the oil cooler, filter, engine and lines upon installation and crank the engine for about 10 seconds (coil wire removed) to insure oil is distributed throughout the engine prior to start-up. Is this an OK procedure?

Reg suggested that I take out the distributor and crank the engine until I see oil returns. This seems like extra work!

Is there an established procedure? Any professional advice?

By the way, my insurance settlement was lucrative!

[Jac Mac]

I think Reg would have told you to remove the distributor and using an old dist with the gear removed and a cordless drill turning anti clockwise , pump up oil pressure without cranking the engine ( assuming this is a wet sump motor ). Yes its a little bit of work, but sfa compared to rebuilding due to premature bearing wear!

If you simply remove the distributor and crank the engine over you will never get oil pressure as the distributor drives the oil pump!

Jac Mac

[Rick Parker]

What's more work (?) taking out the distributor and spinning the oil pump to prime the system or potentially having to pull the engine to replace the bearings because you DIDN'T pull the distributor to prime the oil sytem in the first place? Seems like a no brainer???

[JayBar]

This is a subject I have some expiernce with. My first suggustion would be not to hook up the oil cooler. It is not needed, I have one because I thought doing open track events would require one. But they run fine without them (in Florida where the track temp is 110F.
If you insist on hooking it up. Fill the filter with oil fill the cooler with oil.
Pull the distributer (mark the timing line with felt marker. Then the location of the roter. Then (and this is the important thing) spin the oil pump counter clockwise. YOu need a special tool for a 302 or 351 they are different. It could be possibe to use an allen wrench socket at the end of an extention but I would hate to loose the socket down deep in the engine.

[Tim Brewer]

Yes, like JayBar said, but 1st mark the dist. location to the block, then remove the cap and mark the rotor location, then pull the dist. You can get an oil priming tool out of either Jegs or Summit,(ARP makes a good one). Don't worry about how much oil is in your engine or oil cooler, it dosn't mater. Stick the priming tool in the dist. hole untill you feel it engage with the pump and spin it COUNTERCLOCKWISE with a good drill. You will feel resistance and you should build oil pressure. After doing this, and the engine sits awhile, you can check your oil and fill to the proper level. Now just put the dist. back so it matches the mark on the block and the rotor matches the mark on the body of the dist. and you should be in business. Now, you didn't say your engine is brand spanking new, and if it's not, you really don't need to do anything except just start it like always have.
Tim

[vettestr]

To each their own beliefs but for my nickle I suggest priming the engine oil system with a drill. It has been 5 or more months without running the engine and possibly without oil in the engine (not sure when the system was opened/drained from the cooler damage).
I also live in the Phx. valley and my oil temps do require the use of a cooler on my engines so I recommend you put it back on your 392 engine. Do you remember what temps you were running with the cooler installed ?

[Philip Messer]

I appreciate the responses! The engine has 1800 miles on it and been drained of oil since mid-May of this year. I feel the safest way to proceed is to follow the suggestions of Tim and vettestr.

The oil cooler is an attractive option, probably not necessary, but it was on the vehicle when I purchased it and all miles are logged in the Phoenix area where it does get well over 100+F in the summer! It's going back on!

I'll be back on the road later this month! It's been a long dry spell!

[jeffko]

Phil,

If you don't already have these they can be had at Sears. You need a 1/4" drive 5/16" hex socket and a 1/4" locking drive extension. Cut the female socket off of the extension and you are ready to go. Now the socket cannot be pulled off into the engine.

The oil cooler is usually practical to some extent, especially if you plan on any road racing and it looks cool. The most important part of the oil cooler system is a thermostat. The most practical is a Mocal sandwich type, but the important thing is to have one. Proper lubrication is done with hot oil!

As for a procedure, I'm not sure there is one. Consider this, remove both valve covers, fill the pan to normal level, run the drill counter clockwise for one minute, refill oil level, run drill for another minute, refill oil level if needed and now run drill as long as it takes to get good oil seepage from all pushrods. Start the engine and rev just enough to maintain idle for about 5 minutes. Shut-off the engine and let it rest for a few minutes allowing the oil to normally return to the pan, wipe the stick and check the level.

You will also need and electric drill because this will take awhile.

Just my two cents, but I think it may help.

[Snakester]

Phil, I bought a drill driven primer tool from SUMMIT...$ less than $20...worth every penny....With only 2000 miles on that motor don't take any chances...It must have been hard to have missed this summer with no COBRA to drive!!!Snakester