Dropping the trans

[Sledge]

Folks:

I'm getting a custom-built T5 to replace my current T5, in chassis 168. I've searched previous threads on doing a trans change without pulling the engine (that is, dropping it underneath the car). Previous posts indicate that I may have to unbolt the differential and drop it an inch or so to obtain clearance to pull the driveshaft (once unbolted from the diff) back off the trans output shaft. Is that correct? Does that mean I have to unbolt the halfshafts as well?

Jeez I was thinking this was going to be simple, now I'm not so sure. Any and all tips appreciated as I'm not that much of a mechanic yet.

[tony martin]

BILL,


WITH THE T5 U CAN CHANGE WITHOUT MOVING THE DIFF.
U MIGHT HAVE TO REALLY FIDDLE WITH THE DRIVE SHAFT,BUT IT WILL COME OUT.I HAVE DONE IT A FEW TIMES.

GOOD LUCK AND LET US KNOW ABOUT YOUR TRANNY SET UP AND DRIVABILITY.

REGARDS

[Sledge]

That is very good news indeed, Tony, thank you!

I'll get back to you once the dirty deed is done.

Thanks and cheers

[Jerry Clayton]

We changed a drive shaft on one and you do have to wiggle it to get the drive shaft back far enough to remove it--I seem to remember that it was back and up to the left side of the pinion flange---

Jerry

[Rwillia4]

Mr Lucky,

Do you know if I can drop a T-56 tranny without taking out the engine? My fingers are crossed.

[tony martin]

Hi There,

Your Car Has A Removable Rear Crossmember.
This Makes Tranny Changes A Piece Of Cake.

If It Aint Broke,dont Fix It!!!

Take Care

[Cashburn]

We did a transmission swap on BDR228 and that removable crossmember was not present for us

[tony martin]

U MIGHT EVEN FIND A FEW MORE CHANGES FROM CAR 228 TO CAR 455.

WE ACTUALLY DO LISTEN TO WHAT OUR CUSTOMERS HAVE TO SAY,AND WITHIN REASON TRY TO SATISFY EVERYBODY.

ITS NOT ALWAYS EASY,BUT ITS GREAT FUN TRYING.

REMEMBER WITHOUT,U,OUR CUSTOMERS,WE DONT EXIST!!!

NOW U ALL GO AND HAVE A GREAT COBRA DAY.

[D-CEL]

Sledge,

A friend and I did a TKO swap into his early BDR. The only thing I can say about it was, it was NEVERENDING!!!
Now that I have that off my chest
The driveshaft does come out you just need to lift it up and to the left, while rotating it back and forth to get it around the pinion flange.
When removing the existing T-5, we found insufficient room to pull the trans back far enough for the input shaft to clear the bell housing. The tail housing would hit the trans tunnel sides.
So with the trans loose, we removed the bell housing and it all came out the bottom. What a PITA!!
I ended up removing the interior and cutting out the trans tunnel. This made the job much easier. I flanged the tunnel with 1/8x2 alum strip to be riveted it back in at the end.

FYI, you might check your driveline angle, we found his to be 2 deg high relative to the pinion flange. When we lowered the tail shaft to remove the angle, the drive shaft yoke hit the welded in cross-member (hard). So we had to cut out the center of x-member, lower it by half the height, flange it so it could be bolted in.
Interestingly, when I was cutting thru the x-member, black fluid starts pouring out!! I thought Id hit a fuel line!! As it turns out, the welded in square tube was full of rusty, black water. We think when the frame was painted, someone rinsed it off and didn’t realize the seatbelt holes were open to the inside of the tube. I’m glad we the water out before it rusted thru!
I did fab up a cool drive shaft safety loop for it while it was apart.
It came out great, it just took a lot longer than I had originally planned





Hope this helps
Jason

[Cashburn]

Removable tunnels are cool

[Barry Hall]

But Jason,,,,,it was interesting to say the least.

[tony martin]

Thanks For Your Account Of The Tranny Removal.

This Allows Us To Show The Comitment
That We Have To Build U Guys Better Cars.:d


Evolvement!!!!

1.larger Transmission Tunnel.

2.removable Crossmember.

3.seat Belt Holes Plugged When Washing Chassis.


Keep Those Suggestions Coming.

We Are,looking,listening And Acting!!!

Its Never Too Much Trouble To Try Harder.:d

[D-CEL]

Hey Barry,

"Oh no,no, yeah, that transmission, yeah its gunna half-ta come outta there... agin"

Jason

[thunder1]

I have #84 with a 302 engine and a 3550 trans, I pulled the trans from the bottom with some advice from custom cars, great guys with info when you deed it. first step for me was to take out the bolts on drive shaft ,#2 the 4 bolts holding the rear-end are pointing up, loosen to drop the rear-end down about 1" to 11/2" the nuts on top of the rear-end I used a crowfoot openend, work great. I cannot remember what size , sorry. do not take nuts all the way off this will let rear end down enough to pull driveshaft out of the trans and over the top of the rear-end flange to the passenger side of the car . #3 unbolt side pipes and drop trans down with jack now the drive shaft is moved forward over trans and down and back between the cross member it does not look like it will go, but it will with a little help. unbolt trans and move back from bell housing there is just enough room for the trans to clear , the tailshaft dust boot will have to be compressed but it will go. the hardest part for me was getting the driveshaft out of the trans because it was gulled to the bearing I just keep moving it around and using a hammer at the same time it finally came the whole job toke a better part of a afternoon but I bet I can change one now in about a hour with a lift.iI hope this helps
Ed

[Sledge]

Tony and Jay:

I started the swap today and have run into a snag I think. I was able to disconnect the driveshaft and pull it aft okay, unbolted the trans, and started to pull the trans straight aft. My original plan was to pull the trans straight back until the input shaft cleared, then lower the front of the trans until it was clear, pull it forward to drop the rear of the trans, and reverse the process for the installation. I didn't quite get the input shaft clear before running out of room (my car, #168, has two welded-in cross members between the trans and the diff). I'm not getting jammed up against the drive shaft but it looks like I'm running into tunnel structure. So my next plan was to just let the engine/trans pivot down at the aft end (at the engine mounts) to go under the cross-members and then aft to get the input shaft all the way out. However, there is a little flange on the top of the forward crossmember, that extends about an inch forward of the crossmember, with two holes in it, that looks liek it could have been a mounting point for a different trans installation. It looks like it would be right in the way of the output shaft if I tried to let the engine/trans pivot down. Am I doing this incorrectly, or do I have to get that flange cut off? Also, if I let the engine/trans pivot tail low, do I have to unbolt the headers-to-side-pipe flange or just unbolt the sidepipes and let the whole assembley rotate down?

All tips appreciated!

Bill

[Cashburn]

Bill,
We sawed the extra loop mount off on the car we had to drop it out of. I recall we kept the headers on but pulled the sidepipes. There maybe some photos still lingering in: http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/gallery/bdr228 that could help.

[Sledge]

Jay:

Thanks for the quick response!

Just so I'm sure that I understand, is the extra loop mount the flange I described, or is it the forward of the two welded-in crossmembers? (I assume it is not the latter but I just want to doublecheck). So you were able to disconnect the sidepipes from the headers, rotate the aft engine/transmission down and slide the gearbox out underneath the two crossmembers? Again, just trying to make sure I understand.

Thanks again,

[Cashburn]

I'm saying based on your description... yes.

[Sledge]

Jay:

Thank you very much for your help!! I'll bring out the sawsall and go to work

[Rwillia4]

Bill you are going at it the right way. That flange with the two hole is for a driveshaft safety loop. Unbolt the sidepipes from teh body and see how much room your engine pivots (each is a little different depending on how your exhaust holes are cut). The bottom aft pipe is the one that will hit first when you pivot at least on mine. I also had to loosen the engine bolts and slid the engine forward. This extra little bit was enough to get the driveshaft out. Just watch out for the other things connected to the engine (radiator hoses, wires,...) whe you pull it forward. My first cross member is not welding in but I have the long T-56 trans so we are probably in similar cases.