Slave cylinder

hawaiicobra · #1 (**permalink**) 04-10-2007, 06:49 PM

Does anyone know the brand of slave thats on the BDR's. Mine just went out and their is no name on it.It is a push type that attaches to the outer flange of the bell housing.The main housing of the slave is natural finish aluminum and about 4"long plus the shaft which is around 6". I've looked at Summit and Jegs etc and they only have the Wilwood pull stlye. Help please, I'm having driving withdrawls.

Dens · #2 (**permalink**) 04-10-2007, 06:57 PM

Hawaiicobra

I think it's from a mid 80s Mazda B 2000 pickup.

Brad

Cashburn · #3 (**permalink**) 04-10-2007, 07:42 PM

I sell them for $15 + shipping. We use our own setup on each car so these are new take offs. I just added them to our store if you need one.

See: http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/s...cat=265&page=1

Rwillia4 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-11-2007, 12:05 AM

I am not using mine if you want it send me a PM.

Rob

hawaiicobra · #5 (**permalink**) 04-11-2007, 11:11 AM

Jay,what type of set up are you using and can you get me the information so I can order it from you.I'm not excited to put a $15 slave back on my car. This one lasted only 500miles.Its a piece of ****.I think BDR should be using better quality components on these car.What else did they go cheap on?

hawaiicobra · #6 (**permalink**) 04-11-2007, 11:15 AM

By the way Rob,thanks for the offer.What set up are you using.Pull type? Can you run a pull type off of the rear engine mount on the drivers side just behind the coilover? Thanks for any help.

cbreez · #7 (**permalink**) 04-11-2007, 07:21 PM

you can't complain about those things on this forum...you will be vilified for talking reality about the backdraft quality and workmanship....for a $35K plus car.....you should be happy, after all, its a cobra!
the same weak points mentioned here over and over....never updated or corrected at the factory...remember, as has been said before...they are really busy....too busy for us that plunked down our $!

Cashburn · #8 (**permalink**) 04-11-2007, 09:21 PM

We (Vintage) spend a great deal of time and money in developing our slave cylinder setup that we now install on all the cars we assemble/deliver. If you would like our setup I can come up with a working price tomorrow and we will make them to order.

You need to share what transmission you have and what bellhousing?

MacGyver · #9 (**permalink**) 04-11-2007, 09:41 PM

Have you seen the Finishline slave kit? I am looking for a hydrolic conversion for my 5.0/WCT-5. I would like more onfo on the vintage unit and how it would work for me. The other option I am looking in to is this finishline piece. It is considerably more expensive though (see link). I would welcome any opinions or info on making this switch a reality. The B&B clutch setup is less than reliable. http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...083070368656a6

Rwillia4 · #10 (**permalink**) 04-12-2007, 12:59 AM

Hawaii,

I am using a hydro pull that works in the stock hole for a clutch cable on the bell housing. It was tapped and a reducing bushing was used to tighten up the hole then a hydro puller fits thru that and attaches to the clutch arm. no other mounting is required.

Gatorac · #11 (**permalink**) 04-12-2007, 06:19 AM

If you do not change the fluid in the clutch system often, the components will not last long at all. The heat from the headers cooks the fluid in the MC and line. When I say often, I mean at least every 6 months. even after 6 months the fluid is nasty. You should suck the old fluid out of the MC and replace it with new. Then bleed from the slave until the fluid looks good. This usually takes me filling up the MC at least 5 times.

BTW, when bleeding don't go over 3 pumps before refilling the MC.

Since doing this my slave has lasted just fine. It is a less then dependable set up though.

I can't imagine any other slave lasting longer with fluid that is bad. I'd like to convert to a cable set up.

Cashburn · #12 (**permalink**) 04-12-2007, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rwillia4

Hawaii,

I am using a hydro pull that works in the stock hole for a clutch cable on the bell housing. It was tapped and a reducing bushing was used to tighten up the hole then a hydro puller fits thru that and attaches to the clutch arm. no other mounting is required.

We looked at this setup, but it seemed to allow the slave to eventually pull apart since it puts the force on the housing instead of the rod end it is designed to pull with at the core of the assembly.

Cashburn · #13 (**permalink**) 04-12-2007, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gatorac

If you do not change the fluid in the clutch system often, the components will not last long at all. The heat from the headers cooks the fluid in the MC and line. When I say often, I mean at least every 6 months. even after 6 months the fluid is nasty. You should suck the old fluid out of the MC and replace it with new. Then bleed from the slave until the fluid looks good. This usually takes me filling up the MC at least 5 times.

BTW, when bleeding don't go over 3 pumps before refilling the MC.

Since doing this my slave has lasted just fine. It is a less then dependable set up though.

I can't imagine any other slave lasting longer with fluid that is bad. I'd like to convert to a cable set up.

2 things on this...

1.) The heat shields we sell/use have virtually eliminated this cooking of fluid.
2.) Since about car #400 on the hard line to the clutch takes another path that avoids the headers entirely. Prior to that advancement, I believe around #250 or so the line went through the wheel well (which is different from the even earlier cars I believe).

round_midnight · #14 (**permalink**) 04-12-2007, 05:14 PM

I would recommend against attaching a pull-type slave to the motor mount bracket. I did mine that way originally, and the problem is that you will get a lot of chatter when engaging the clutch. As the clutch starts to engage, the drivetrain twists, causing the clutch to disengage slightly. Then the drivetrain untwists and the process repeats, resulting in an oscillation.

I had a shop weld a bracket on my (steel) bellhousing and attach a push-type slave made by CNC. It works great.

Cashburn · #15 (**permalink**) 04-12-2007, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by round_midnight

I would recommend against attaching a pull-type slave to the motor mount bracket. I did mine that way originally, and the problem is that you will get a lot of chatter when engaging the clutch. As the clutch starts to engage, the drivetrain twists, causing the clutch to disengage slightly. Then the drivetrain untwists and the process repeats, resulting in an oscillation.

I had a shop weld a bracket on my (steel) bellhousing and attach a push-type slave made by CNC. It works great.

This is important. You want the bracket to bolt to the motor mount/block and not the frame. That will eliminate the chatter risk.

tony martin · #16 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 12:28 AM

CBREEZ,
AND ALL U OTHER FRIENDS OUT THERE.

ANYTIME U HAVE CONSTRUCTIVE INPUT ABOUT FAULTS AND IMPROVEMENTS ABOUT BACKDRAFT CARS AND ANY OTHER MANUFACTURES PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LET US KNOW ON THIS FANTASTIC FORUM,THE TRUE VOICE OF COBRAHOLICKS IN THE USA AND AROUND THE WORLD.

I CAN ONLY TALK FOR OUR SELVES BUT AFTER HAVING HAD THE PLEASURE OF MEETING AND TALKING TO MOST COBRA BUILDERS AROUND THE WORLD,IT STRIKES ME THAT,WITHOUT EXCEPTION,EACH OF US/THEM, ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT THE CARS AND THE BUILDING OF THEM.

WE ALL WANT TO BUILD BETTER CARS.

UNLESS WE KNOW WHERE WE ARE GOING WRONG THIS CANNOT HAPPEN.

SO COME ON GUYS,LETS HEAR FROM U.

WE ARE ALL COMMITED TO BUILDING BETTER CARS,NOT ONLY TO STOP U MOANING

BUT BECAUSE WE LOVE WHAT WE DO.

SURE,THANKS TO ALL OUR CUSTOMERS AND FRIENDS OUT THERE,WE ARE KEEPING BUSY,BUT THIS DOES NOT STOP US IMPROVING THE BREED.

WE FEEL PRIVALIGED,

BEING PART OF THE EXCLUSIVE COBRA FAMILY

hawaiicobra · #17 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 11:42 AM

Hi Jay,thanks for the info.After looking and the operation of the slave that came on the car and it seems to me that it pulls,not pushes as Reg told me.The body of the slave is mounted to the bell housing through a holl on the flange and the shaft face backwards and pulls on the arm coming out of the bell.Am I wrong?Can I just upgrade to a better unit or do I need to re-engineer this thing. It is a tko500 with centerforce clutch and lakewood bell. Thanks for the help!

hawaiicobra · #18 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 11:43 AM

Jay,I just ordered some items off your website and you were out of the heatshield.When will you have more in.thanks

Speedysnake · #19 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 11:48 AM

Aloha,

What brand / type slave cyl. do you have?

The original Wilwood slave cyl on my BDR failed early on, it turned out that it was due to an assembly error. I replaced it and corrected the error. I also rerouted the hyd. line and installed a two layer heat shield (modified Thunder1 model)
I've had no problems since, just over 4K miles now.

Cashburn · #20 (**permalink**) 04-13-2007, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hawaiicobra

Jay,I just ordered some items off your website and you were out of the heatshield.When will you have more in.thanks

Heatshields next week. I will hold your order if you want one of those. I'm out of safety wire too

stuff is going quick and I don't really promote it yet