backdraft wilwood slaves - Page 2

Bailey · #21 (**permalink**) 08-03-2007, 12:08 PM

Invest in a hydraulic throw out bearing. This discussion will never come up again. NEVER.

Cashburn · #22 (**permalink**) 08-04-2007, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bailey

Invest in a hydraulic throw out bearing. This discussion will never come up again. NEVER.

Nope, because if it does go bad the question will be "How hard is it to remove the transmission?"

Bailey · #23 (**permalink**) 08-05-2007, 07:27 AM

That's a BIG if, Jay. I went through 4 Wilwood slaves in 500 mi, and have 4000 mi on the Hydro TB, including multiple times at Sebring and Moroso here in Fl, ZERO issues since the change.Well, with the clutch anyway.
Just my opinion and personal experience.

Cashburn · #24 (**permalink**) 08-05-2007, 10:33 AM

Our experience with external slaves and hydro tbs has been they are good from the start or bad from the start. Some do eventually fail, but they are typically bad right out of the box.

tamanaco · #25 (**permalink**) 08-05-2007, 11:35 AM

I've got the standard BRD mazda B something unit...it failed at 1400 miles. The BDR boy said it was over-stroked, seal went past the bore. They also sent me a new one, at no charge and I'm the second owner! Kudos to Reg and Frank!!!...I dis-assembled the new unit before installation...the seal looked worse the the unit that failed. Wanting to drive my recently purchased Cobra, soooo...put the original unit back in with the seal that had a small nick on the seal lip. I was really expecting this to fail in short order, but now with 5200 miles, Mid-Ohio Cobra School, a 20 times at the 1/4 mile stuff...still ticking and not a drop of leakage?. Now, I do want to say...had to align the slave to the clutch fork (build set up was really bad) and keep the pedal adjusted so it won't over-stroke. Not sure why all the problem with slaves...heat with bigger hotter motors?

rdorman · #26 (**permalink**) 08-06-2007, 10:10 AM

I am a fan of Wilwood products, with that being said, the slave they sell is junk. Aside from the rod having a tendency to fall out, the use of what amount to little more then a o-ring for the piston seal is an absolutely terrible decision. If they are installed VERY carefully, you can decent service outof them. The seal still makes me shake my head.

FST FOX · #27 (**permalink**) 08-06-2007, 11:47 PM

mark If you want pm me and i would take your offer for the rod, also did some adjustments and think I have it nailed, But you can bet I do have a back up plan, if it breaks again I will be buying the howe unit. I f that breaks KCM will be doing the internal unit. But went to Ellits hardware and got a good grade 8 stud, so tonight was awsome much needed after my hard 3 day work week

Mark Brye · #28 (**permalink**) 08-09-2007, 07:01 AM

FST FOX,

It's on its way! Sent it out yesterday. Have fun!

JayBar · #29 (**permalink**) 08-22-2007, 01:43 PM

Ok, I am now about to install my 4th "Wilwood type puller" slave cylinder. I have had two pusher types before.
I purchased my last one from Speedway motors
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/7169...ave%20cylinder

The price is right and the actuating bar is "peened" to the piston, so it can't unscrew like on the Wilwood.
This last go around the rear cap came unscrewed and fell off with the return spring.
I mount the "puller" the easy way not with a bracket like Cashburn. I leave off the rear shaft and run the actuating rod through the hole in the bell housing meant for the clutch cable. I think this mounting method subjects the slave to a lot of heat as it touches the bell housing and must pick up heat there, over and above what is gets from the headers.
I may try to make a bracket of some kind to mount the new cylinder and be sure to lock tight the rear cap. I will also put a short bolt in the rear cap and wire it to my frame so if it comes off I can put it back together.
I did buy two this time since the shipping was the same cost.
I did mention in a different thread that I re-routed my hydraulic line that used to run down the front of the foot box and very close to the headers. I had NAPA make up a line (rubber) that goes back from the clutch master on top of the foot box then down the side of the foot box to the slave. This keeps it far from the headers, but the fluid still gets black after a while. The problem with routing the line up over the foot box is that air gets trapped in the high point of the line. To bleed ,with out a power bleeder ,you have to disconnect the slave and hold it high above the master, bleed it then re-install.
Since my car is down till my new parts arrive I may take the line back to NAPPA and see if they can splice the line and install a bleeder at the high point.
If I come up with an easy and cheep way to mount my "puller" slave I will post it.