Oil Cooler

[FST FOX]

Just wondering, mine is an early BDR #42 and currently does not have an oil cooler, now am I missing a vital set-up here or am I fine running w/ out one. just curious as what the general opion is on having one and the need for one

[Doug I]

That's Boudy's car?

[FST FOX]

It was it's mine now

[SuperHart]

You really don't need an oil cooler unless you are running at the track. The only valid reason for having an oil cooler on the street is for the "original" look. If you do choose to install an oil cooler be sure to run a thermostat in the oil line to prevent the oil from running too cool. Sandwich style adapters from Mocal fit between the oil filter boss on the block and the oil filter, provide the thermostat control needed, and provide 1/2" NPT female fittings for the oil line fittings. Use AN -10 braided hose and appropriate fittings to plumb the oil lines. You can see the adapter in photo #1 between the block and filter. The adapter adds 1" to the installed filter length.

[Doug I]

Not a bad car. Drove a few laps in it over here at NPR a while ago.

The color almost made my wife think of that over the Jag. Ice Blue. Almost.

The problem with fitting a cooler is making the sure the oil gets hot enough quick enough. Bein' Texas and all I'd drive it and keep an eye on the oil temps and if they are ok then I wouldn't see the need for a cooler.

I could mention the possible need for pontoons right about now .... but won't.

[FST FOX]

Well I have had it a month now and very few miles been doing alot of mainatnce and trouble shooting on it but the last event was a faulty U-Joint, but now I think I have all the bugs worked out and waiting for the rain to stop so I can drive it

[Doug I]

Yeah I think you guys are about ready for the rain to stop?

[h2oman]

Mine has an oil cooler and don't think it needs it. Never has gotten close to hot, always stays well below the water temp. I really like the look but if I were doing it from scratch, I'd leave out the cooler and get an "oil fooler". I think Vintage carries them.

Have Fun!

[Doug I]

h20man .... your oil temps couldn't be a little too cool could they?

[FST FOX]

what oil temp is normal, ever time I look at mine I think it right above 50c

[xlr8or]

50c is low. I have been told that when driving the car hard you want to get oil up over 100c so it will cook off any moisture.
In normal driving mine was typically at 85-90c and up to 110c when driving hard.
The suggestion for a thermostat is a good one if your temps never get that high.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Don't know what the conversion from Centigrade to farenheight is, but it should be anywhere from 200 to 220 degress..........

anything less than 200 is not good and will tend to make sludge all over the motor, not good..........especially if the car is used for mainly short runs and not driven at highway speeds for any length of time........

David

[h2oman]

Originally Posted by Doug I

h20man .... your oil temps couldn't be a little too cool could they?

I've never seen it get over 80c. Usually, it stays around 60-70c assuming the gauge is correct.
I want to try blocking the cooler to see how much the temp goes up, when I find something suitable to cover it.

[FST FOX]

I will look at it closer next time I have it out but just remembered it was above 50c

[h2oman]

80c = 176f


Conversion

0.555(degrees F - 32) = degrees C

(1.8 x degrees C) + 32 = degrees F

This should be the correct formula.

[FST FOX]

so based on the formula 50c should be just below 148f, right?

[bobcowan]

Oil has an operating temp range. Max temp depends on the oil. The chemical engineers that made it can tell you what it that is, but they won't. Generally speaking, dino oil should be below 240*, and synthetic below 300*. Those are general guidelines, and diffferant formulations will vary.

Engine bearings will start to increase wear when the bearing temp is greater than about 250*. Bearing temps tend to be about 70* hotter than oil temps. You can do the math on that one.

Oil DOES NOT have to be above 200* to evaporate collected moisture. If that were true, your kitchen floor would never be dry. It just takes longer at a lower temp, just like your floor.

Minimum temp is generally accepted to be about 180*. Engine ring wear will increase to about 0.001" per thousand miles when oil temps are below 170*.

An oil thermostat is a must on a street car; just like a water thermostat. The oil thermostat should always pass some oil through the cooler to allow all the oil to warm up evenly. Unfortunatly, on a street car that can mean the oil never warms up to operating temps. On cold days, put some tape over the cooler.

For a street/track car, the optimal set up would be an oil-water heat exchanger. That will keep the oil and water temps about the same, regardless of temp. But that may put too much of a strain on the radiator, having to shed heat from both the water and the oil.

[jwoodard]

I tend to disagree with the analogy of water on your kitchen floor verses moisture in your oil. Water on your kitchen floor evaporates and doesn't require temperatures in excess of boiling point because it's an open environment. Your oiling system in your engine is an enclosed environment and not exposed to outside air. It does require temperatures in excess of boiling (212 degrees) in order to burn off the contaminants.
This just supports the need to have a thermostat in your oiling system if you want to run an oil cooler.

[FST FOX]

Good point, Btw the way how have you been Jim?

[h2oman]

Originally Posted by FST FOX

so based on the formula 50c should be just below 148f, right?

You are correct.

Your math skills are still up to par.