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07-23-2007, 11:12 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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Not Ranked
Installing Performance Lower Rear Control Arms
I'm still trying ot sort out the alignment on #455. I purchased the rear control arms like this thread states Wheel Alignment
(except I went with steel http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...t=products.asp ... aluminum parts in the suspension just doesn't seem right to me)
I thought this would be simple, take two bolts out swap part put two bolts in... not the case. I was able to get the first bolt out of the hub (and only have 2 bloody knuckles to show for it, dang thing was getting hung up on the brake rotor dust "tin"). I moved to the next bolt and was able to get the nut off and pushed the bolt back, but it backs into the rear diff before the threads even show. So my problem is, how do I get the bolt out of the hole on the frame side? I am assuming I need to lower the rear center suspension assembly that attaches to the frame. What is the best way to do this? I'm sure I can figure it out but is would be nice to hear the correct way rather then figureing it out the hard way.
Last edited by Rwillia4; 07-26-2007 at 08:35 PM..
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07-23-2007, 08:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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Not Ranked
Tony, Reg, Jay need help!!
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07-24-2007, 05:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Encinitas,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR 187 Prism Red w/Silver stripes; 427 stroker by Smeding Performance, Tremec TKO600 gearbox
Posts: 131
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Not Ranked
Loosening or removing the subframe will not help. What you need to do is move the diff by removing one or both of the rear mounting bolts that secure it to the subframe. By raising the diff slightly, you can create enough clearance to remove the bolt.
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07-24-2007, 09:40 PM
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CC Member / Sponsor
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 808
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Rwillia,
If you are talking about the lower control arms, remove the tank for convience, then take the two aft mount bolts loose, all the way. Take off the forward bolt and the diff will move enough for your to clear the bolt. I have done a couple of my M3 suspensions this way. I remove the tank for convience only, you don't have to but it makes your life easier.
Jeffko, I feel your pain, with the dealer who let you down. I use to call him on a regular basis and he didn't know a lot of the answers.
Bill
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Squeaky wheel always gets the grease!!
www.gcperf.com
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07-24-2007, 11:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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Not Ranked
Thanks, I'll give it a shot... I think my fuel pump is right in the way of moving the diff backward
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07-25-2007, 09:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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NO JOY!! I think the bolts I'm suppose to get lose are behind the sway bar and I can't get a socket or wrench in there. So why not take off the sway bar? Well the two ends are easy to take off but the two other clamps/brackets are next to impossible off b/c they are behind the frame where I can't rotate them out to remove the bar. So what now? Do I drop the subframe to get the sway bar out of the way, then get the diff bolts, then get the two "simple" bolts out, what a PITA!
Last edited by Rwillia4; 07-25-2007 at 09:54 PM..
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07-25-2007, 10:51 PM
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CC Member / Sponsor
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 808
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take off the sway bar, I forgot to tell you. You should be able to remove the lower control arms after that.
Bill
__________________
Squeaky wheel always gets the grease!!
www.gcperf.com
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07-26-2007, 08:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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thanks Bill,
Like I said, I can't get the sway bar off because the mounts are squeezed between the subframe and the vertical frame member that comes down to the gas tank rail. I spent some time today trying to work things out. I can see the help in taking out the fuel tank (sure do wish I hadn't just filled it!), it is coming out. I have begun to lower the subframe in order to remove the sway bar brackets.
...all for two bolts!
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07-27-2007, 01:20 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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Success!!! Removal of the gas tank was key. What a pain the the A$$ but they sure do look good.
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07-28-2007, 08:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hudson Valley NY,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, 302, Tremec 3550. #038
Posts: 863
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got a picture?
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Kids in the backseats cause accidents, accidents in the backseat causes kids ! Good reason to get a Cobra !!!
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07-29-2007, 11:18 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: BDR #455, KC427W, TWM-FI
Posts: 727
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Here are some pics of the upgraded arms installed. To me the replacement removes the weakest part of the rear suspension and gives a great amount of adjustment that was not available before. The arms are much beefer then the originals and the spherical end is more rigid than the rubber original. The jam nuts on both ends give full adjustability. The bolt on the left end of this pic was the hard one to get out.
The eccentric is installed as a regular bolt in this case and gives no adjustment.
Last edited by Rwillia4; 07-29-2007 at 11:24 AM..
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