Exhaust Leak head to header

[Rwillia4]

I have AFR225 heads and stock BDR headers. I have leaks on both sides in the corners of both of the front ports (I can see the carbon deposit), I'm sure I have leaks in other ports also. I have torqued and retorqued, they are tight but to no avail. Question: What is the best way and gasket to effectivly seal these headers.

[peters44]

I thought only the older cars had this problem. I have #488 with 2,600 miles and no leaks. Have you contacted your dealer?
Here is a link to the Backdraft site were someone might be able to help you. http://www.backdraftboys.com/forum/default.asp

Peter

[trularin]

I use that copper RTV as a gasket supplement.

[jmimac351]

I had an issue blowing gaskets out on one side that I just couldn't seem to cure. I tried copper gaskets and those didn't help. Then heard about remflex gaskets and they completely cured the problem. Best I've ever used - by far. They are able to compress quite a bit yet retain some "spring" so they keep the seal. If you check out their site you'll see why they are likely to solve the problem you have. Another nice thing is that they are a family-owned business and are small enough to make whatever you need. So if you were to have a special port configuration of some sort they can custom make a set. Call them and tell them what heads you have as they may have created a set special for those that's not listed in their catalog.

www.remflex.com

Oh, also I sent them a collector 4 into 4 gasket and they made a template for those as well. That was for a FFR header to sidepipe but I think they pretty much fit all of them.

[Rwillia4]

peters- the problem on the early cars was a slip fit header to collector. My problem is on the other side engine to header.

jmimac- thanks from the web page it looks like they will do the job. Are they easy to port out to match the engine port?

[Blittleton]

I have had great success with the Earl's header gaskets. 29D03AERL part number on summit racing website. they seem to hold up real well.

Bill

[bobcowan]

One of the biggest problems is a port size mismatch. Most heads on the market have port sizes comperable to stock heads. Not the same, comperable. Getting a gasket to fit the heads is prett easy.

But, sometimes the header ports are huge. This is a problem with FFR headers. You have to buy a gasket that fits the headers, not the heads. And, use the silicone.

[BDR561]

I will second the Earl's gasket: 29D03AERL. I used them on my AFR205 heads and BDR headers without issue.

[Rwillia4]

Bob-
I agree with you, the AFR 225 have been massaged by KCR. I matched the BDR header ports (mostly cleaning them up). The bolt locations don't allow for ease of access and tends to thin out the gastket in those areas.

[Excaliber]

Copper gaskets didn't work for me either, man I think I've tried everything now. The copper silicone and 'paper' gaskets have offered the best I've seen to date, but still I got ONE last port that just won't hold.

Looking at the science of these Remflex gaskets they sound really good! High carbon content, extreme heat range (3000 degrees) and good compressibility. By golly these just might be the ticket! I didn't check the price and don't care. If they work, their priceless. I'm ordering a set through NAPA on the Big Island, apparently there not available on Oahu.

[jwd]

I've never used the Remflex gaskets but I know many that have and they won't use anything else. Since they're made locally (to me at least) most auto parts stores around here have them in stock.

Jim

[jmimac351]

Originally Posted by Rwillia4

peters- the problem on the early cars was a slip fit header to collector. My problem is on the other side engine to header.

jmimac- thanks from the web page it looks like they will do the job. Are they easy to port out to match the engine port?

Yes, they are actually somewhat fragile. They are many, paper thin layers of carbon held together with a resin. You can put them on the head with a few bolts and take a razor blade to notch them. Then take off and trim. Easy. Exhaust leaks really suck and these will absolutely fix the problem. You won't be disappointed.

[SantaFe66]

Thanks for the link, jimimac351, these look just like what I need.

So, with these Remflex header gaskets, do you trim to fit the header or use them as is? They sell the one for my 428 FE (although I have Edelbrock heads), but my header ports are larger than the exhaust port on the head.

I saw that they will custom make a set for you and assume you just send them a template.

I have asked them for information on collector gaskets since I can't seem to get mine to seal no matter what I use. I have a collector that attaches to the header pipe flange just inside the body opening and then makes the bend to the "muffler". The 8 stainless bolts on mine loosen after a while too. My lockwashers lose tension and flatten and the stainless lock nuts I'm using have to be checked and tightened frequently. No flange gasket has lasted more than a month and I have to custom fit them from flat material. These things might be the solution, now if I can just get the bolts to stay tight!!.

[jmimac351]

Originally Posted by SantaFe66

So, with these Remflex header gaskets, do you trim to fit the header or use them as is? They sell the one for my 428 FE (although I have Edelbrock heads), but my header ports are larger than the exhaust port on the head.

They come ready to use just like a regular header gasket. Check the fit against the head and maybe trim a little, if necessary. It doesn't sound like you will need to.

[Rwillia4]

SantaFe66- The is an expensive nut that will not loosen up, goto www.mcmaster.com search for (page) 3138 look at the bottom of the page for the Hex Thread-Clamping Locknuts (did I mention they were expensive) but they won't let go. A cheaper version at the top of the page called Hex Steel-Insert Locknuts will also work better than the standard crimped thread nuts which can only be used ONCE.

[cbreez]

My experience with regular bolts and gaskets has been fine, even in severe racing applications. I would suggest checking the trueness of the header mounting surface as a problem source.

[SantaFe66]

Thanks jimimac351, I called Remflex and ordered the header and collector gaskets and they're making me the unique gasket I have between the header and the inlet of my collector (square flange with 8 bolts).

Thanks to Rwillia4 also for the McMaster nuts, yep, they're expensive but I don't care. They won't leak with the gaskets and won't back off with those nuts.

This site is incredible for the wealth of info you can get with just an question.

Thanks again, guys.

Paul

[uncltodd]

Uuuh... any help here for us slip-joint header guys?

Please?

Build #139, 2004.

UT

[carmine]

Trularins method is good. Ive done the same thing, no header gaskets, just rtv copper high temp sililcone and never had a problem.

[Ronbo]

Biggest problem I ever had was the bolts continually coming loose. Only fix was to drill and safety wire them, that is until these came out: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

The metal reinforced stock gaskets hold up pretty well if the bolts don't back off, the small gap starts blowing off material and next thing you know you hear that popping sound.

Definately check surface of heads and flanges and make sure they're true. Sanding block will reveal this pretty quickly.