Jacking points

Gun Doc · #1 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 06:49 PM

I am sure I have seen this covered somewhere before, but can't find anything on it now (just looked at all the posts under General Discussion on Backdraft Boys).

I need to get my car up in the air so I can inspect/repair the clutch slave cylinder and associated lines. Normally I drive the car up on ramps, but I can’t engage the clutch at all, so I need to use a floor jack. What is the consensus on the best jacking points for this car?

Gun Doc

Cashburn · #2 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 07:55 PM

Frame rails.

round_midnight · #3 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 07:59 PM

I have jacked up mine practically anywhere the frame member is 2"x2" or larger, and have had no problems. This includes in front of the front swaybar bushings and behind the fuel tank. Most of the time I put the jack under the outboard longitudinal frame member just behind the attachment point of the sidepipe. That's close enough to the c.g. that both tires come off the ground at about the same time.

Trueoo7 · #4 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 08:17 PM

Be very careful and patient and go up a little at a time and use 3 ton (smaller) jack stands. I unfortunately found out the hard way by trying to use 6 ton (higher) stands. Jacked the car up and because of its stiffness three wheels came off the ground, couldn't get the jack stand under quick enough and the swivel head on the jack rotated and car fell off the jack and went through the passenger floor. Luckily its easily fixable and did no damage to the body. Now, I go up in steps from all four corners.

JUS BIT · #5 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 09:00 PM

Use the long frame rails for the best lifting in the front or the rear. It usually is the safest place. I sometimes use the 2 x 2s only if needed.

Bests, James

Gun Doc · #6 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 06:57 AM

I guess I should have been a little clearer on what I was asking...I figured the frame rails were the best components to use for lifting. What I wanted to know was WHERE on the frame rails to place the jack. I worry about making the car unbalanced, or putting too much torque on the body.

So, what would you all suggest the best lifting points to be for both the front and rear of the car?

Thanks,

Gun Doc

round_midnight · #7 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 08:54 AM

If I want to get the whole car in the air and I need a lot of open space underneath, I put the jack on the outer frame rail just behind the attachment point for the sidepipe and take the jack up to nearly full height. I put jackstands under the front frame extension just in front of the swaybar bushing and under the lateral frame rail that is behind the diff as far outboard as practical. Then the same for the other side. If I need more height, then I can put the jack under the bellhousing and raise the front, and under the diff to raise the back. Lowering is just the reverse. If you raised it in steps, then lower it in steps.

I think that your worries about cracking the body are unfounded. The frame is pretty stiff, and I've jacked mine from nearly everywhere the frame is 2x2 or larger with no problems.

P.S. It goes without saying that you need to do this on a level surface! (but I said it anyway...)

Gun Doc · #8 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 03:24 PM

Thanks to everyone!

I got it jacked up and on the stands...I jacked it first on the main frame rail right where the side pipes exit the body, placed a stand under the front sway bar, then moved the jack to about mid-way down the frame rail and placed a second stand at the rear suspension frame brace (triangle).

Now it is just a matter of figuring out where the leak is: Slave cylinder, or line. A few pumps on the pedal and hopefully I’ll know!

Gun Doc

JUS BIT · #9 (**permalink**) 06-17-2008, 09:02 PM

Gun Doc, sorry for the confusion. You are right on the money, the frame rails are best. It appears you got her figured out and up in the air. Hope you get your leak sorted out.

Bests, James

Gun Doc · #10 (**permalink**) 06-18-2008, 01:13 PM

Update:

I found that the slave is leaking from the end opposite of the boot. Has anyone re-built one of these slaves? Is it worth it, or is it better to just replace it?

Also, this sounds like a fairly common problem. My car is less than 1 year old and has not seen any track time, has the heat shields installed and is the Vintage modified setup. Is the problem with the Wilwood unit, or have owners had problems with other brands, as well?

Gun Doc

JUS BIT · #11 (**permalink**) 06-18-2008, 01:19 PM

If it's a Wilwood Slave, you should be able to rebuilt it with this kit:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

You probably just have some trash in the piston portion of the internal slave. Or it may have a damaged O-ring.

Bests, James

Gun Doc · #12 (**permalink**) 06-18-2008, 01:59 PM

Thanks James,

I was on the Summit site last night and saw the rebuild kit, but I was wondering if it is worth the trouble of rebuilding, or is it just going to fail in another 1000 miles, or so.

Is anyone running anything other than the Wilwood unit and if so, how has your unit held up? I wonder if securing the body so it can't rotate would help at all.

Gun Doc

Cashburn · #13 (**permalink**) 06-18-2008, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gun Doc

Thanks James,

I was on the Summit site last night and saw the rebuild kit, but I was wondering if it is worth the trouble of rebuilding, or is it just going to fail in another 1000 miles, or so.

Is anyone running anything other than the Wilwood unit and if so, how has your unit held up? I wonder if securing the body so it can't rotate would help at all.

Gun Doc

We are now using the Howe unit, available from Summit.

Gun Doc · #14 (**permalink**) 06-18-2008, 02:40 PM

Thanks Jay,

Any feed back on it yet?

Gun Doc