Corner Balance

[JayBar]

Well I was presently surprised, I recently replaced the front struts/coil overs and set the ride height by eye.

Well we loaded the car on the alignment rack placed a bar under the car across the rails of the lift, then measured the height of the frame from the bar. The right side was 1/4 inch higher than the left. Not a big deal.
BTW while measuring I checked the height of the Canton oil pan and it was 3 inches off the ground. My bell housing was even lower maybe another inch. Another surprise since I have driven about 5,000 miles with this setup and did not hit anything except the Dyno roller when doing an engine test.

We loaded the car with 200 lbs of sand and slid the scales under the wheels.

Much to my surprise it was right on. The diagonal percentage of the total (2,840lbs) was 50.5% from left to right, and from right to left it was 49.5%. The front was 45% and the rear 55%. Near perfect and not worth playing with to get it any closer. Only minor alignment problem was that I could not get positive toe in at the rear. The best I could get was "0" toe. To adjust better I am going to have to unbolt the trailing arms and file the adjusting slots larger in the frame. That will be a project for another day.
I am now set for run and gun.

[Rwillia4]

Jay,
That sounds great, did you put the race springs in? If you are looking to get more toe I would suggest upgrading the trailing arms with a more substantial unit then the OEM BWM arms. I did mine and like the results. This web page has a lot of other upgrade that can be used to tweak the suspension.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...unt2=859733223

[JayBar]

No did not go for the race springs. On the rear toe, all it will take is to enlarge the adjustment slots on the frame.
I just went to urethane sway bar bushings. I got a set at a local speed shop. Did front and back for $35. Bimmerworld wanted about 75 for the front alone. I think the weak link (no pun) will be the sway bar end links, as they are the stock rubber units.