Re: HOT STARTS

[curtis troxel]

Need some advice:

When my engine is cold it cranks over fast like normal. After driving it for a while and it heats up, it tends to crank over very slowly, but always manages to start. Anyone know what the deal is. Maybe the starter heating up???

Sure wish I could have at least increased my speed by x 5 last Sat. on the parade lap.

Thanks guys,

Curtis Troxel

[bmalone]

You didn't say what engine, but I assume your timing is a tad advanced for performance, which coupled with the hot starter can cause the symptom you describe. Not necessarily a bad thing unless the engine won't turn over.

[mr0077]

Curtis, Bill could be right...other starter-related causes:
hot starter - find (or make) a heat shield
dragging starter - not too likely, but a possibility...get it tested
power cables too small (particularly with trunk-mounted battery)
bad electrical connections - easy to check
You can check the last two by hooking up jumper cables in parallel from the positive cable to the starter, and from the motor to the neg terminal. If it works better, remove one, try it, reconnect and remove the other, try it...this will tell you if one or the other cable needs a little help (bigger size), or if there is a bad connection.

[A Snake]

Not knowing your engine size makes it a little harder.

IF it is a BB Ford, they are known for "fighting the starter" When they get warmed up. Mine didn't kill the starter, but it certainly was tough on batteries.

My thoughts are like above with additions.

If you have the timing advanced for max hp, you either need to back it off for street use or run 100+ octane fuel or maybe both.

Battery size could be a problem too. You need at least a group 27 size with cranking amps up near 1,000.

On the cables, I agree with Ken and add the follwing: The very best battery cable in the world is welder lead. It's expensive per foot but for a long run from trunk to engine, it can't be beat. I'd suggest "4 -0" it's big, but you won't have to worry about loosing much current.

If you do use the welder lead, I strongly recommend having the terminals soldered on to prevent internal corrosion. If you're any good with a torch, you can buy the pieces and do it yourself.

ALL, it's a good idea to solder all battery terminals, welder lead or not.

"Tin" the bare copper part of the cable with solder and also the inside of the terminal before assembling. Once assembled, heat the terminal to remelt and join the solder, let it cool and you're in business.

Al

[Jeff Frigo]

Maybe vapour lock? Is your fuel line next to anything hot?

[PNJSNAK]

Curtis: I can sympathize with your problem. Here is what I went thru. I have 351 W with about 350 HP. Optimum battery in trunk with #2 wire to stater solenoid mounted on fire wall. # 4 wire to stater. Standard rebuilt Ford starter. Jet Hot coated headers and side pipes. When cold started like a champ. After running 20 min or so nice and hot. Won't start unless it cools down about 15 min or so. Thought it was starter "heat soak". Bought the heat sheild blanket from Summit. Still doesn't start. Checked battery, all good. Changed all wires to #2. Still nothing changes. Took starter to local Advanced store where the starter was purchased. Tested fine but asked it to be replaced. Still the same. Checked timing alittle advanced but engine runs great. Backed off the timing (retarded) about 4 degrees. Starts no problem!!!!!!!!!!!!
If the sound is starter barely turning the engine over. RETARD the timing a bit and see. Good Luck.
Jim

[HighPlainsDrifter]

Curtis,
There are a couple fixes depending on how much $$ you want to spend.
1 - Put a on / off toggle switch in the power lead to the distributor. Turn the switch off,as you crank the engine[spins freely now] turn the toggle switch on and it will fire right up.
2 - Put in a msd adjustable timing control.You can vary the timing up to 15 degrees with the turn of a knob inside the car.
Perry.

[Jeff Frigo]

If you think it is a timing or starter problem, get a gear reduction type starter. My buddy runs 13:1 compression and a distributer that is locked at 38 degrees, starts every time hot or cold.

[Phantasea427]

Easy fix. Invest in a hi-torque mini-starter. I'm running Two 1000 amp batteries and with the stock type starter I was still dragging when hot but with the Powermaster mini-starter it spins my 13:1 458ci engine really easy but the only negative is that it sounds like a mopar

Good luck

[Jeff Frigo]

Dammon:

Good minds think alike, but the faster person wins. Read the post above yours.

[Tony Radford]

Curtis, I had the same problem when I first took delivery of my car. I would always stress when I stopped for gas because I knew the warm start would be laborous. The car came with the two pusher fans controlled via a toggle switch. At Bill Parham's suggestion, I added a 12" puller fan and put all three fans on a thermostat. That was last spring and 3,500 miles ago. I haven't had a problem since. Best $100 I ever spent.

[Phantasea427]

Jeff,

I agree but you only beat me by Eight minutes

Curtis I'm a true believer in gear reduction mini-starters now!!

Good Luck

[Don]

Curtis:

For a 351W, installed the following to resolve the problem:

*MSD 8584 Distributor @ $199 from Summit. Already had the MSD 6A Ignition. Adjustments can be made easily using the advance springs and stop bushings.

* Summit High Torque 820055 Starter @ $159, looks just like a Tilton.

Since both were installed at the same time, not sure if either or both contributed to the solution.

[curtis troxel]

Thanks for all of your help guys. I will try a few things and see if it helps.

Thanks

Curtis Troxel

[Back in Black]

That is, hard to turn over and start when "hot".

I strongly suspect the (old, to boot) stock starter is the problem...it does start, but acts like it does not want to turn over well/quickly at first. I suspect it is a combo of the motor being hot and the starter getting hot as well...losing effeciency in the process.

Going with the Ford motorsports high torque mini starter for my 514 ( in the snake )