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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 04-11-2006, 05:45 PM
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Default WSCB Car Prep

Few things left to get ready on the car before the Sparks trip, alingment, still have front end vibration around 60mph, and draining the coolant and replacing with distilled water and Water Wetter. Anyone have any good ways to change out the coolant. I have a drain valve on the raditor, but that still leaves the engine full. Can't have any coolant in the radiator for track day.
Scott
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:29 PM
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If you have vibration at about 60 mph get the rear wheels rebalanced - it will go.

John
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:48 PM
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The engine block should have pepcocks for draining coolant.
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:54 PM
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Preparing for track day by Hal Copple:

Having done this about 15+ times, i offering for those who are new to
DE's ("driver events") a list of what i do to get ready. It takes about
a half day to get set, and as much when i get back to revert to street
and get everything cleaned up and put away. For those timid about what
will happen when they first feel the rear end of their car beginning to
slip, rest asssured that with practice, you can gain a lot of
confidence in you and your car.

To begin: I always like to show up with a clean car. Disconnect
battery before working.

Pull off rear wheels, inspect the rear CV boots, check brake pads,
rap on pins to see that they are snug (I don't re-torque, to avoid
mushrooming the pin ends), carefully check the rear A arm bushings to make
sure they are tight. Check the shock mounts for any cracks, the shock
bushings for tears. Peek at the diff for any leaks, check the diff
mounts for cracks. Are the rubber fuel lines old? Need a new fuel
filter? (a Mustang driver lost all of sunday because he plugged a fuel
filter, and did not have a spare at the track). Oil all rear suspension
points. Consider bleeding brakes now. Air up tires to track pressure.
Metal caps on valve stems.

Pull off front tires. Check/replace front pads. Bleed if indicated.
Lube suspension. Check for A arm tightness and check pins (rap on them
with wrench). Check a arm bolts, and front shocks per rear. Wiggle
front wheels vertically, to check for wheel bearing play (there shouldn't
be any vertical wiggle). Consider lubing Zerk fittings. Examine front
steering rack boots and brackets attaching rack to front frame member.
Remove steering wheel play by adjusting "nut" on rack if necessary.
Bleed clutch if not done recently. Air up tires. Put metal caps on
stems. Examine tranmission for external leaks.

Raise hood, snug down exhaust manifold bolts if loose. Look to see
that no lost bolts on header to side-pipe fitment. Check starter bolts,
visually check all fluid connections, feel fuel lines for any seepage,
consider replacing old rubber fuel lines. Check coolant and oil.
Lube carb linkages (i spray with contact cleaner, then re-lube). Remove
air cleaner, and spray carb cleaner down carb air bleeds and venturies,
hold a warm engine at fast idle. Make sure your nut that holds air
cleaner stud is snug (saw an SPF lose a motor when it injested a nut from
the stud). Examine all brake and electrical lines to make sure
nothing is abrading them, and electric wires aren't dangling somewhere.
Consider check igntion timing. Check spark wires visually. Distributor
cap secure. Feel hose connections for dampness. Check V belt condition
and tightness.

In cockpit. Remove driver's mat. Make sure seat moves forward and aft
(i run with mine several clicks up). Examine seatbelts for tear or
fray. Remove junk from door pockets. Check mirror view and tightness.
Check/adjust brake and clutch pedal travel and take-up. Put race
numbers on side of car. Roll bar padding on.

Decide on how much gas in tank, leave room for a few gallons of race
gas at the track. Pack race clothing, put in car, Don't depend on
remembering it in the dark in the AM, check for arm restraints, gloves, race
boots, etc.

Select spares and tools, i bring brake fluid, plus syringe and tubing
to put it in master. Brake pads, rubber hoses, AN wrenches, assorted
socket/wrench's, a spare plug wire, anternator with pulley on, wire ties,
clamps, timing light, V belt, race grade tire pressure gage, assorted
electrical things (connectors, crimper, wire, electrical tape,
alternator connector nuts, etc), antisieze, lead hammer, hand cleaner, rags and wipes, windex, engine oil. If you would need special tools to replace
pads or alternator, or other chores, be sure to bring those specific
tools. I bring a small tool box, and put the rest in a plastic box with
a snap lid, keeps dust and sand off my spares.

For self, bring money, hat, sunscreen, glasses, camera/video, cooler if
you have room, snacks, cell phone. BRING YOUR TRACK REGISTRATION AND
TECH FORMS!

Show up early to track, fuel with some race gas, empty out the car, one
last tire pressure check (don't assume they have what they had in them
last night!!), tap the knock offs, and have have it ready to go so
when the driver's meeting is over, you can walk over, suit up, and go out.
You may be in the first run group. Don't waste time fiddling with your
video, etc. Drink more water.

First several laps take your time, bring your oil temp up, look for
water, sand, where the corner workers are, feel out your brakes, get some
heat into your rubber, then start to go at your own pace.

Bill
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:56 PM
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The only coolant that will remain in the block will be from the bottom of the water pump to the bottom of the block within the block. Everything above, including block, heads and manifold will drain out through the lower hose into in the radiator and out the petcock. Very little coolant will remain. You may also fill it with water and drain it a 2nd time, diluting the remaining coolant before adding distilled water and water wetter during the final fill.
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:16 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I will do that for the coolant.

Bill, I do that stuff everytime before I drive my car LOL! Some of that stuff I have already done. I do need to upgrade my tool bag better for this long trip.

John, I seems like it is coming from the front end. First I had the fronts rebalanced and the guy said my front left wheel was bent, and he got them pretty good. I had an new set of tires, since I was going to do the alingment I had the wheel straightened and rebalanced with the new tires. It seemed to get worse then what it was. So I think I might have to take them off and get them checked again.



Scott

Last edited by scootter; 04-12-2006 at 11:20 AM..
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