Aluminum Welder in SF Bay Area

SF_SN888KE · #1 (**permalink**) 05-31-2008, 12:36 PM

Need to start planning some work for next year's Cobra track day in Reno ... to reduce the vapor lock problem ... relocate electric fuel pump, sloshing, etc.

Looking for an Aluminum Welder in the SF Bay Area to build an Aluminum fuel sump and weld onto aluminum fuel tank, and relocate fuel inlet. I can bring fuel tank to their shop.

Recommendations? Thanks.

tcrist · #2 (**permalink**) 05-31-2008, 01:01 PM

Rudy Manufacturing
962 Parker Court
Santa Clara, Ca. 95050
408-845-9272

I have worked with Rudy off and on for over 20 years in the sheet metal trade. His welds do not break and they look great. He can weld SST, CRS or ALUM. Plus he has a sheet metal and machine shop.

Terry

ByronRACE · #3 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 12:17 PM

I'd volunteer to help, but this is a fuel tank...and you want a very good, very experienced welder. I did a lot of the welding on my car, and have a little 185A tig machine in the garage...but when it comes to something this important, I would advise you to go with a pro. In fact, when I build my tank, I'm going to employ the services of a pro. One pinhole and you get to do the prep work all over again; it's just not worth it.

And...make sure you soak the insides of that tank with a good detergent (dawn works well) and water...but not too long; you don't want corrosion. Overnight is ok. Don't use any cleaner that has an acid base (vinegar is bad) and don't use something caustic (like automatic dishwashing detergent, also bad) or it'll eat the metal. I'm sure the welder has tricks to insure he won't explode. If he doesn't, I recommend a shop vac or electric leaf blower hooked up to the tank to keep the air exchanged. This is also a convenient way to dry it. It's very hard to get a proper air/fuel ratio for an explosion with that much air circulating. I prefer vacuum; the pressure method tends to make it harder to weld.

Lastly, pressure test it. Just extend a tube vertically off the filler neck about 2ft, cork up the tank, put it up on blocks so you can see and touch all the weld lines, and fill it with water. Head pressure is about 2.3psi per foot above datum. 2-3 ft is fine. Don't go too crazy, there's a lot of surface area there, and force on the wall is multiplied by every square inch...I'm sure you know this. That said, I saw a guy do this with an 8ft pipe because that's what he got from home depot...and more pressure is better right? Wrong, he broke his tank. 18.4psi, 33x15 tank top. Lots of sq inches; lots of force.

Byron

tcrist · #4 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 04:25 PM

What I have done is take it to a radiator shop and have them pressure test it. After they do that then they can seal coat the inside.

Terry

SF_SN888KE · #5 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 06:24 PM

Byron,
If I do a poor job of cleaning, I was thinking about a radiator shop for cleaning as tcrist suggested. If not, I figured the welder would fill the tank with water and I was thinking about your dry ice idea to boil off C02.
Good suggestions about pressure test and seal coat too.
Add a fuel sump and shut off valve, relocate the electronic fuel pump lower, possibly a Barry Grant fuel sink, maybe some hard line to replace some braided hose, wrap the headers, add a better vent, and I should be good to go for next year's track weekend.

Sounds like a few more buck$ than I thought to do it right ...

tcrist · #6 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 08:46 PM

SF_SN888KE,

Some welders would want it cleaned before welding others may not. it sounds like you are looking into doing quite a bit of work to it so it might be better to have it cleaned first. That is what I would do for safteys sake. Who ever you choose to have it done by, make sure that they have welded on gas tanks before. It is not that big of a deal if it is done correctly.

Terry

SF_SN888KE · #7 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 09:54 PM

Terry,
Since I need to remove the powdercoating where the sump will go, drill some holes for the sump , and also for the new fuel inlet neck, it is a good idea to get it cleaned properly prior to welding. All this because of the electric fuel pump is mounted too high, and 100 degrees at track day ....

Any other welding referrals out there?

Thanks.
Ron

tcrist · #8 (**permalink**) 06-01-2008, 10:25 PM

SF_SN888KE,
It is a good idea to get it cleaned before welding. Anytime you are welding aluminum you need to have a good clean surface so the welds do not get contamanated. The weld shop might also ask for it to be acid etched. Any aluminum plating shop could do that.

For another weld shop, you could also try Cal-Weld. I think they are up in the Fremont / Union City area but I am not positive on that.

Also, you said that it is powdercoated. You might want to have the powdercoating removed before welding. and then repaint or powdercoat. I have all of my powdercoating done at MAAS Brothers in Livermore, but there are a lot more just as good, closer to you.

Terry

289fia_cobra · #9 (**permalink**) 06-11-2008, 02:42 PM

Ron:
Might try Advanced Welding in Mt. View. They have been there working with the defense department (Moffett NAS) on various bits and pieces so I suspect they might be able to work on your stuff.

They repaired a hole I made in my Edelbrock cylinder head. They knew exactly what grade of aluminum to fill in my mistake.

http://www.advancedwelding.info/

Good luck!

-Herman

RICK LAKE · #10 (**permalink**) 06-11-2008, 02:59 PM

SF_SN888KE Ron have you looked into fuel cells?? The other idea I have for you is to have the fuel pump installed in the tank with foam to control the sloshing of fuel. I run FI system and have 2 electric pumps in the tank. There is no problem with racing. I keep 1/2 tank the car to cool the pumps. You can do the same thing. If you are serious about racing, you should have a 1/2" supply line to the front of the car and a 3/8" return line back to the tank. I run 2 independant fuel systems incase 1 pump acts up. You will need a fuel pressure regulator to drop the pressure to the carb. About 6 psi is all the needle can handle. You will need a relay for the pump. Seal and solder all connections. Weldon fuel pumps are the only ones that I know of can suck. I think this is also safer that to add a sump to the bottom back of the gas tank. If you get run into and crack the lines or sump, you could be cooking hotdogs and yourself.

Rick Lake

1985 CCX · #11 (**permalink**) 06-11-2008, 04:25 PM

Try this outfit:
http://actoncustom.com
They make great tanks and can weld aluminum..........

wetdog · #12 (**permalink**) 06-11-2008, 06:07 PM

San carlos radiator , boils the tank so you can safely weld on it talk to Mark WD

mickmate · #13 (**permalink**) 06-14-2008, 08:42 PM

I leak test by plugging and capping everything and put low pressure (4psi) air into the tank. Then I use my daughters bubble soap to go over all the joints. I have used this method to detect leaks that even a vacuum tester missed. Shipping would only be about $70 to me but needs a good crate so stay local if you can. If you need any help or advice let me know.
http://www.actoncustom.com

SF_SN888KE · #14 (**permalink**) 06-15-2008, 10:40 AM

Thanks for all of the referals, great ideas and cautions. Unfortunately, a factory fuel cell will not fit and don't want to $pend a lot of money to build a new custom tank - my fuel tank is an odd ball shape with custom mounts - not straps. Just want to tweak the tank for fuel injection, reloacte the fuel pump lower (so the pump does not have to work as hard - and get HOT) relocate the fuel outlet lower (from the top), and relocate the inlet from the top to the side (to increase trunk space - as inlet is passing through the trunk).

Many have recommended an in-tank fuel pump, but that would require cutting the top of the tank and mounting the fuel pump inside the tank or adding a pre-pump. Seems that a fuel sump and relocationg the electric fuel pump is an easier "first try" .... before going to a full custom tank!

Will post separate thread about building the optimum fuel sump ...