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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 06:07 PM
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Well you guys no that chevy was Carroll's first choice. Chevies rule!!

McVette
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 06:33 PM
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He talked to Donald Healey before he talked to AC, Healey turned him down. He wanted an Olds engine FIRST, before Chevy. Heck he talked to a LOT of people trying to put something together.

...no big deal, it is what is, now, anything else is a pipe dream.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 06:37 PM
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I love the responses. The bottom line is, if it wasn't built by Shelby in the 60's - IT'S a REPLICA. I don't care what brand it is, even if you paid extra for a "continuation series" IT'S STILL A REPLICA. Put anything you want in it. It's your car. He11, be a tard and put fur on the dash with dual rollbars. Who cares? It not an original and will NEVER be one.
Most of those azzholes that have smartazz comments at cars shows probably end up going home in their POS 4 dr. station wagon to their double wide trailer and their 300 lb. wife. Not that that's a bad thing if that's what you're into.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 07:36 PM
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Does anyone know where I can find some original fuzzy dice?
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 07:55 PM
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So it's gotta a GM motor?

...not that theirs anything wrong with that, or fuzzy dice.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 08:04 PM
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Does anyone know where I can find some original fuzzy dice?
Have you adjusted your valves yet?
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 08:53 PM
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Have you adjusted your valves yet?
Yep, I was slow, but very precise. The gaps were all too wide. Runs like a champ. Vacuum gauge steady too and idle mixture is right. Solved almost all of the run-on problem, maybe all of it.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 08:55 PM
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Yep, I was slow, but very precise. The gaps were all too wide. Runs like a champ. Vacuum gauge steady too and idle mixture is right. Solved almost all of the run-on problem, maybe all of it.
Excellent. I think I might buy this: http://www.precisionmeasure.com/valve4.htm It looks awfully cool, but I can't find anybody anywhere that's actually bought one, much less that says it's great. But it looks great, and I love to buy funky tools that you only use once a year or so.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 08:57 PM
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I just read this thread. A lot of good points brought out. I prefer Fords but
when it comes to replicas it is each owner's choice. It would be an extremely
boring planet if everyone was the same. I appreciate good engineering in anything. I don't appreciate adults (I use the term loosely here) who behave
as that guy did, especially when he had his son with him. That is the tragedy
in this situation.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:08 PM
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Excellent. I think I might buy this: http://www.precisionmeasure.com/valve4.htm It looks awfully cool, but I can't find anybody anywhere that's actually bought one, much less that says it's great. But it looks great, and I love to buy funky tools that you only use once a year or so.
The ad is false (not that the product doesn't work). You would never have 3 people gap your valves. Since it's all one person, it just matters what their "feel" is. Frankly the biggest hassle was cleaning the valve covers of the old sealant. I think it was Right Stuff and it was a PITA. Oh, and I have a racheting breaker bar in my future. I could just turn the engine over with a 1/2 rachet, but the angle was such with other stuff in the way I couldn't easily use a cheater bar on the rachet - more hassle than it was worth.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:21 PM
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ratsnst1, I posted a few pics in my gallery of my engine, nothing special but I like it. I just put in the msd system and need to work out some issues. I made the mistake of getting the programmable MSD 6AL-2, I wanted the Digital 6, long story really buyer error, oh well. I am hoping to change out the valve covers soon.
I like the look of the engine, what size is it, mine a 515 makes power to 6000 rpm, and hauls ass.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jhv48 View Post
Ruins it for me too.

Sorry.

But, I never would have said anything out loud!
Like putting a small block in a 427 body.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:18 PM
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I love the look of the Cobra and I appreciate it's history. I love the new C5-6 Vettes. I built my own frame with the stock Cobra wheelbase and track but put all new Vette parts in it. It has an LS6, T56 6speed, the C5 diff which I converted so that it would take a driveshaft, used the C5 suspension with coilovers, the C5 brakes and the C5 18 inch wheels and tires. I know that purists will not like my car. That's OK with me because I did it my way. I have a completely modern supercar with the classic Cobra looks. I respect anyone that builds their own car.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2010, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dcdoug View Post
You would never have 3 people gap your valves. Since it's all one person, it just matters what their "feel" is.
You're probably right. When you were a kid, you probably knew somebody whose dad had a P&G Valve Gapper (which is pretty much what that tool is). It was one of the coolest tools you could have and you still see them from time to time on Ebay and at swap meets. But, like anything else, there's a "contrary view" as to the importance of getting your valve gaps "just perfect." In fact, here's a pretty good tidbit on valve gaps really not mattering as much as you think they would, and specifically addressing the ol' P&G Valve Gapper: http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...sion/ii_4.html
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2010, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naumoff View Post
Like putting a small block in a 427 body.
Ouch!

Luckily you will rarely find anyone anywhere that can tell the difference.

Except on this forum.
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2010, 12:28 PM
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Luckily you will rarely find anyone anywhere that can tell the difference.
Even though the uninformed might be fooled, you will always know that it's a small block. You can't fool yourself, and it's always painful when you're stupid enough to try.
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:31 PM
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Even though the uninformed might be fooled, you will always know that it's a small block. You can't fool yourself, and it's always painful when you're stupid enough to try.
I forgot, there is an easy way to tell the difference between a small block, or rather any other engine, and an FE.

Look underneath it for the oil leaks on the pavement.

And were off and running!
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
You're probably right. When you were a kid, you probably knew somebody whose dad had a P&G Valve Gapper (which is pretty much what that tool is). It was one of the coolest tools you could have and you still see them from time to time on Ebay and at swap meets. But, like anything else, there's a "contrary view" as to the importance of getting your valve gaps "just perfect." In fact, here's a pretty good tidbit on valve gaps really not mattering as much as you think they would, and specifically addressing the ol' P&G Valve Gapper: http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...sion/ii_4.html
But since it sounds like you need to re-tighten the nut anyway, it's not going to be perfect and you'd need to check it with a feeler gauge anyway - or does the Gapper tool both turn the adjusting screw and then hold it in the exact position while tightening the nut? I had to re-do the adjustment 2-3 times per valve until I figured out how "loose" it should be before I tightened the nut which would close the gap just that touch more to make it perfect.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2010, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcdoug View Post
But since it sounds like you need to re-tighten the nut anyway, it's not going to be perfect and you'd need to check it with a feeler gauge anyway - or does the Gapper tool both turn the adjusting screw and then hold it in the exact position while tightening the nut? I had to re-do the adjustment 2-3 times per valve until I figured out how "loose" it should be before I tightened the nut which would close the gap just that touch more to make it perfect.
If "torquing" down the nut, after you've already adjusted the lash, changes the lash then you would see it on the gauge and then you'd have to re-lash it. The Gapper does not hold the adjusting the screw for you. You still have to do everything the same way you do with a feeler gauge, but you get "real time" feedback from the gauge while you're adjusting the screw and when you're torquing down the nut (which, as we all know, changes the lash and you have to "learn" how to adjust/torque to get the right lash).
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:05 PM
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Actually, sounds like kind of a cool tool. But 250 beans ain't cheap. You'd need to let me borrow it to make it worth your while (so you could feel you were getting enough use out of it).
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