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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2009, 12:50 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic ND 427 big block 427 ford with tri power I know the 427 didnt come with tri power just wanted something different. 9 inc. ford rear end top loader four wheel dic brakes.
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Default Fuel Tank

I have a 1992 Classic rdst. I have SW gauges and my fuel gauge has always read backwards. Full is empty and half full is full. I built the cobra in 1992 and the other day was fixing things {winter projects} and took the the tank out thinking the wire most be crossed or wrong wire to sending unit. The wires are right #190 to ground and #136 to sending unit. unit looks good and fuel arm only drops in the tank only one way. I think the sending unit was from classic rdst. Could i have wire the SW fuel gauge backwards? or mybee the SW fuel gauge doesnt work with the classic rdst fuel tank sending unit.?

Andy Teal ateal@wavecable.com
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:21 AM
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Default How about this.....

Why not buy the right one, it's cheap?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Fuel-L...ign=GoogleBase
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Old 11-29-2009, 06:27 AM
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I use the Centroid inductive type, easy to calibrate and no moving parts. They're just a straight tube. Nisonger has them.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:14 PM
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Andy,
Grounds are CRITICAL on these cars. Yes #190 black wire going to the sending unit is mandatory BUT do your self a major favor-leave the 190 hooked up BUT add a short ground wire from one of the pick up bolts, directly to the frame! Ever since our third Cobra we have added the extra ground-saves all kinds of possible future problems!

Now check that the Gauge also has a proper ground.
CR's uses a stock OEM GM sending unit- '0' to 90 OHMS.
It IS very possible that the Gauge OHMS and the sending unit OHMS do NOT match!

Mickmates sending unit IS an excellent unit, PEGASUS also sells this type, but again The OHMS have to match, or your gauge will do what yours is doing! Difficult to install on a completed car but it can be done.

Make sure the "arm" in the tank is totally free to swing! I have seen some put in where the "Float" actually hits the pick up arm/tube or the edge of the tank in its full swing motion.

Irritating, but an easy Gremlin to kill!
DV
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Old 11-29-2009, 10:33 PM
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Guys,
Thanks for the help, I well add the extra ground wire and check out the sending units.

Andyh
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:17 AM
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The two common ohm ranges to look out for and match are 0-90 and 33-240. The senders I mention are an insulated top and the tank does not need grounding.
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:08 AM
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Mick,
Please do not mess with the guy.... The "TANK" does not to be grounded, The GAUGE DOES!
The wire he addresses is labeled 190 and IS for the sending unit-NOT the tank. The extra ground I am referring too is a redundant and dedicated Ground for the Sending unit, not the tank.

CR's has supplied the Ground in their Wiring Harness, tied into multiple grounds in their system.

Yup the sending unit you are talking about has a "Bakelite" material insulating the entire gauge - electronics, as all sending units are insulated from the tank. However the Gauge/sending unit Does need to be individually grounded.

The point I made regarding the OHMS are NOT the type of unit or OHMS to use but to make sure the sending unit-gauge head will / do Match!

The common OHM units you mention are GM- 0/90, the 33-240 are usually used in Ford and/or Chrysler.

The problem usually comes about when the sending unit does not match the gauge or (receiving unit) as mentioned.

I.E.; A friend, George, who owns the '40 Willy's I am building had a similar problem that Andy mentions. He has "Autometer" gauges including his Gas Gauge. For ease and accuracy he ordered the exact sending unit that you have described. The Gauge ultimately went whacko! Come to find out George lost his working brain cell and ordered a FORD sending unit knowing full well his Autometer as based on the GM designed OHMS.

Even though George had cut/adjusted the new style sending unit to fit his fuel cell, Pegasus sent him a brand new -OHM's Matching- unit at no charge! Pretty cool.

Oh Well-the sending unit supplied with the CR's gas tank is just fine. The optional sending unit you describe is good- very good, but absolutely NOT needed. to fix Andy's problem.
DV
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:36 AM
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Andrew the problem you are having sounds a lot like what I see on the Contemporaries. They have a GM (Camaro) sender and a Smiths gauge which aren't matched to each other. The sender actually reads upside down for the application. They have "tweaked" the gauge as far as it will go and added a small ballast to the circuit and it at best does what you are describing. As I said match the value and calibrate the sender and you'll be good. 3 wire sender instructions are here http://www.centroidproducts.com/3wire.htm 2 wire are here http://www.centroidproducts.com/2wire.htm
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:27 PM
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Double Vernom,
I did put the SW unit in and also ran the ground from the sending unit over to
the frame, two grounds. I had put alot of extra grounds in used the #190 wire, The dash guage is working fine now. Thanks

Andy
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