Classic roadster - Page 2

onefastmustang · #21 (**permalink**) 05-04-2010, 10:41 AM

Well if it stays that way for a while when I liquidate my stocks I may very well be interested.

hermn8r · #22 (**permalink**) 06-18-2010, 11:00 AM

I see the web site is back up does anyone know what is going on?
I am new here but have a classic's healy kit.

capteddie · #23 (**permalink**) 06-18-2010, 11:47 AM

A simple whois returns the info below on the domain. Looks like the database was just updated today.

Registrant:

classicroadsters
POBOX 388
Fargo, ND 58107
US

Domain Name: CLASSICROADSTERS.COM

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Promote your business to millions of viewers for only $1 a month
Learn how you can get an Enhanced Business Listing here for your
domain name.
Learn more at http://www.NetworkSolutions.com/
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Administrative Contact, Technical Contact:
Hachiya, Tom thachiya@fuse.net
2363 Shimmering Bay
Cincinnati, OH 45244
US
513-474-1152

Record expires on 12-Dec-2010.
Record created on 11-Dec-1996.
Database last updated on 18-Jun-2010 13:28:02 EDT.

Domain servers in listed order:

NS4.INSPIRED4MEDIA.COM
NS3.INSPIRED4MEDIA.COM

Double Venom · #24 (**permalink**) 06-18-2010, 11:53 AM

Cpt.,
Before rumors start running rampant, Tom H. has owned the name on the net since DV 1! Don was supposed to pay Tom for all the work he did for the Flings and also to pay the cost of the website. Never happened, don't know why it has taken so long but Tom H. told me he was filing for the name months ago!

Now IF we could talk Tom into being an owner or partner (?)...............

DV

hermn8r · #25 (**permalink**) 06-19-2010, 09:00 AM

So why have a web site up and running on a dead buisness?
It is just bad press, is it not?

Double Venom · #26 (**permalink**) 06-19-2010, 09:18 AM

Hermn...
Tom H. never had the business or intended to run the business. He was only helping out with the "Fling". (I don't recognize your name so I assume you weren't a Flinger?) Tom has just paid for the name and I ASSUME the web site is continuing to run since it is paid for. I would think in time, Tom would shut it down.???
DV

Bill E · #27 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 12:34 PM

We have been doing a lot of work on the CR's Most of the part we have for our first gen cars will fit. I can provide body sections for repairs and frames that will work under a CR skin with some work. We have up graded a few CR's to world class racers as well. We do not build kits. We can support most of the stuff on the CR's. If you are not in a rush.

coosawjack · #28 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 03:47 PM

Mine is FOR SALE if any of you know anyone interested!!??

jimhurtt · #29 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 10:07 PM

Not sure this is the thread to ask this question but someone was talking about the quality of the CR II LTD. I have a 91 CR built 427 with a 302, etc. Has anyone ever felt they needed to reinforce the original bodys? Maybe add some metal strips or brackets anywhere? Would anyone suggest it?

Also has anyone covered up the holes in the top of the doors that are for the side curtains? I'd like to do that but I don't know what to use. Maybe a snap-in chrome or black round cap of some kind? Any suggestions? I have a top but no side curtains.

jim

tcrist · #30 (**permalink**) 08-16-2010, 10:10 PM

Jim,
You can search McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com and you might find something that will work.

Double Venom · #31 (**permalink**) 08-17-2010, 04:36 AM

Jim,
Cpt. eddies was one of the last if not THE LAST BODY made by CR II. Turned out it did have numerous "thin" spots in the body that needed reinforced. But after thirty plus years it is the only body that I have seen that actually needed cut and re-enforced. Normally CR one of the strongest bodies on the market.

No reinforcements needed.

Filing the window mounting holes: Do NOT use regular body filler! it WILL shrink after time and show up on your paint job! Instead, grind out a small area round each hole, going through the Gel-Coat then use Mar-glass or Duraglass type body filler and fill the holes making sure you use a punch, pencil, something to force the body filler to the bottom of the hole. Do this in two steps allowing the second step to also fill in the newly ground out area, Finish as normal, prime and block. That should do it---a very common process.

s

snake oil · #32 (**permalink**) 08-17-2010, 08:46 AM

Hey DV this is Arcenio,
The Black Cobra w/ the full roll bar.

Need to talk to you breifly, sending you a private message.

Thanks

jimhurtt · #33 (**permalink**) 08-17-2010, 04:27 PM

Thanks DV. I don't think I want to plug them permanently. Just maybe put some kind of attractive caps over the holes. Snap-in maybe. Thought perhaps someone had done that. Maybe you all have side curtains and leave them open.

Also thought maybe there are some stress points on the bodies that may weaken over time (my body is 19 years old) and I could get the jump on them.

jim

CANEA · #34 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 07:39 AM

jimhurtt, for capping the holes of side curtain go to your local auto paint store and ask for fender liner push ins they are black caps with a short rigid stem they come in different sizes if it does not fit perfect use some windshield ribbon in the steam of the push in

Double Venom · #35 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 10:00 AM

Jim,
Once again;

Quote:

"But after thirty plus years it is the only body that I have seen that actually needed cut and re-enforced. Normally CR one of the strongest bodies on the market.

No reinforcements needed."

MaSnaka · #36 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 11:30 AM

There is an area on my car (circa '97) that has a pretty thin spot. It runs along the dash where the fiberglass body rolls over onto the dash board. There is a very thin edge and some linear cracks along the roll. A cosmetic blunder that will get fixed when the time comes to repaint. It doesn't look too noticeable to the unsuspecting eye but I see it. It's the area in the photo show in black where someone tried to patch it and touch it up.

John

Double Venom · #37 (**permalink**) 08-18-2010, 01:06 PM

Addendum#1,

IF ANY part of the body comes in contact with A fixed point, I.E.; Roll Bars, Bumper Tubes, Steering Column, and the likes -Dashboard- which shouldn't, but could, WILL cause stress points, cracks in the body.

Realistically there should be an absolute minimum of 1/16th inch, and as much as 1/8th of an inch clearance between all such points.

Now MASNAKA may have a thin curvature at his dash area, but this may be simply because in the spraying of the body it was sprayed to thin. It could also be that the installer used to much pressure to install the dash, or even who ever installed the body "wrongly" lifted the body at one time!.

Masnaka, if you are the builder then I have to presume that you have just gotten stress cracking over the years.

Each CR Cobra OR ANY fiberglass car can crack over time depending on how it was made and assembled.

But for having any body problems as "NORM" on a CR LTD, INC, or LLC, I know of known.

DV

jimhurtt · #38 (**permalink**) 08-24-2010, 04:40 PM

I want to thank "Canea" for the idea. I found the right size black plastic push-in plugs to cover the holes on the top of the doors meant for the side curtains and the hole meant for the top rod. At Advance Auto parts I got three packages of GM "Body-Tite" trim retainers made by Dorman. Part number 45092. They are just the right size to stay in the 3/8" holes. Looks great!

Jim

fxbill · #39 (**permalink**) 10-27-2010, 12:59 PM

Hi DV... It's been several years since I've been here, but we used to discuss traction problems with my CR. I have a Dart Iron Eagle 351W bored and stroked to 446 with raised port twisted wedge heads....672 HP....and NO traction even with 315/35/17 bubblegum tires on the rear. I was contemplating selling my car and about to call Don when I happened onto this thread. What a bitter disappointment.....both for the company....and for the possible sale of my car. I was originally wanting to get close to $30K for it, but now....even with only 2K miles on the motor and with a brand new TKO600 I think I'm going to have to drop the price about $5k-$10K! I have an early wide tunnel big block body.....bought it as a complete running car and changed out the drive line. Nice to see you still here though!
jimhurtt..... McMaster Carr does have chrome snap in plugs for the tops of the doors when the boot fits. They're cheap, fit well and look good.
Regards to all here,
Bill

Lightingrod · #40 (**permalink**) 11-05-2010, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fxbill

Hi DV... It's been several years since I've been here, but we used to discuss traction problems with my CR. I have a Dart Iron Eagle 351W bored and stroked to 446 with raised port twisted wedge heads....672 HP....and NO traction even with 315/35/17 bubblegum tires on the rear. I was contemplating selling my car and about to call Don when I happened onto this thread. What a bitter disappointment.....both for the company....and for the possible sale of my car. I was originally wanting to get close to $30K for it, but now....even with only 2K miles on the motor and with a brand new TKO600 I think I'm going to have to drop the price about $5k-$10K! I have an early wide tunnel big block body.....bought it as a complete running car and changed out the drive line. Nice to see you still here though!
jimhurtt..... McMaster Carr does have chrome snap in plugs for the tops of the doors when the boot fits. They're cheap, fit well and look good.
Regards to all here,
Bill

Nice ride!