MII front end alignment

[Jack21]

Car got it's first front end alignment. Using specs for '75 MII, except as close to 4 degrees caster as we could get. We got
3 3/4 degrees within the limits of adjustment. Lined up and ran perfect, then hit a bump, something went kathunk, and it started pulling to the right. Upper control arms moved.

What do you guys do to keep these things from re-adjusting themselves?

On a more positive note, the fact that it was able to be aligned at all kinda amazed me. Upper "D" arms are from Heidts, lowers are from RCC, Carerra coil-overs are from RCC, strut rods are OEM with polyurethane bushings. Driving it, I'd say the suspension is FIRM, but no loose fillings yet. Springs are 350 or 375 lb/in, and I may be in the market for something closer to 300 lb/in.

The thing that impressed me was how well this power steering worked. The rack is a late Mustang, high effort, standard ratio from AGR. Pump is a rebuilt Saginaw also from AGR. Valve is a low pressure street rod unit from RB's. Great road feel on the street, but the power kicks in when turning. And no bump steer.

Hoses took some doing. Needed Chevy and Ford high side lines, and a Ford return line rack fitting/tube. Local hydraulics shop made me a fork lift repair line out of the two ends. The return line was just fuel injection hose & hose clamps.

Used a 2" muffler clamp on the steering column right at the firewall exit and that took all the slop out of the column. Joints and shaft are Borgeson, and the shaft is one of their collapsable units so that if I hit something the shaft collapses instead of (or in addition to) my ribcage.

Grudgeingly, after all the hassles I had with Stainless Steel Brakes, their 4 piston MII caliper setup (along with the Ford SVO Mustang rear disk brake conversion kit) works quite well. No highway trials yet, but around town stuff 30 - 50 MPH, it stops on a dime.

The Centerforce clutch is nice & smooth, the blueprinted T-5 w/ Hurst shifter is nice & smooth, and my BBK late Mustang clutch quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster makes for an easy clutch.

These Energy Suspension motor & trans mounts plant the engine nice & firm.

17" Team III's and Falken tires look and handle great with nary a squeal or chirp.

Perhaps we will see you at next years DV Spring Fling.

[dscott]

Jack21, The alignment specs are:
Caster 3.75 degree + or - .5 degree
Camber 3/8 degree + or - 1/8 degree
Toe-in .03 to .06 (1/32 in. to 2/32 in.)

I've never had a problem with the upper arm moving. The arms I use normally have a knurling on the cross shaft where the T-bolts go to lock the arm in place. I would think that the nuts probably weren't tight enough.
Don

[butz999]

i see so many problems with upper arms slipping my A&C uses mustang II arms too but they use a shim arrangment anybody ever seen this before i'll post a pic look real close you can see the shim arrangment

Mike

[Double Venom]

Jack,
I have to agree with Don. I've never heard of the arm coming loose or out of adjustment like that. I too think your guy may have justg missed getting it tight enough. Very easy to do, as they are a pain in the arse to tighten with the tubular stuff.

AND, whatcha mean, "perhaps" you will see us at the DVII?! Man, that is a madatory--"show up!"
June 21,22,23, 2002.
DV

[Jack21]

Back to the alignment shop it went where we did it over again. This time we snugged the bolts down with an impact wrench. So far, so good.

I suppose some if it is my own fault. Somewhere I read that the serrated edges if the control arm, and chassis should be free of paint. Didn't heed this advice.

This is really a crude way to adjust and set an alignment. Loosten the bolts and jiggle. There ought be a way to do this with shims like real cars do.

I like the photo of your sideways control ar & shim setup. Who makes it? Did you fabricate it yourself?

Actually, I purchased an alignment kit from RCC that adjusted with shims when I was installing the front suspension, but didn't install it. Seemed a little too flimsy. Played with redesigning something stronger. Rotated the upper control arm 90 degrees, but raised it about an inch as well. Didn't know how raising the control arm an inch would affect alignment or handling, and wasn't sure at the time where the position of the arms would actually be. Back burner. Well, now I do.

If this continues to be a problem, and there isn't something I can buy off-the-shelf to fix it, I'll dust off the drawing board or CAD.