Engine problem?
 

Hi guys
I wonder if anyone could shed some light on this.
I finished assembling my classic in the summer of 09. The engine cranked over fine everytime I fired it. Then I put it in the body shop that winter and it was sitting there for over a year.
Eventually this February I took matters into my own hands and went to the bodyshop to finish it myself.
I finally got it this month and finished assembly.
Firing the engine is not easy! I need to get some gas in the carburator to get it going and then mentain it at over 2,000 rpm to keep it going.
Below it and it keeps dying.
I have the 351 windsor with the eddlebrock 600 cfm carb and auto chock.
never tuched the timing or the ignition system (msd 6L).
I 'm thinking the carburator needs to be cleaned/rebuild?
Any suggestions, thank you.

Ideally, you should drain the fuel tank, flush the lines, clean the filters, and clean/rebuild the carburetor.

You might try removing the idle mixture needles and blowing compressed air through the passages. You might get lucky. I would fill it with fresh fuel in either case.

Was the air cleaner on it all the time it was at the body shop? Did you look down the carb and see if there was debris in the air bleeds? With the air cleaner off if you open the throttle quickly do you get a squirt from the accelerator pump?

So if it does run over 2,000 rpms it sounds like the idle and idle transfer circuits are the problem. Edelbrock has a good on line tech manual on how the carb works and explains all the circuits. There is also a You Tube video on taking the top of the carb off. I would take the top off. Take out the idle jets and blow through the idle jet holes and main jets with carb cleaner through the red straw. I would also blow through the air bleeds on the top by the venturis. Wear glasses so you don't get carb cleaner in your eyes. Cover your paint on the car or just take the carb off and do it on a bench.

I sould have mentioned.
the gas tank was nearly empty during this time.
I just put some presh fuel in it and a breaking oil addetive to the existing oil.

HI, thanks for the quick reply.
the air cleaner was on the entire time, no debris and it does squirt fuel.

OK, I would blow those jets out. Check those floats while you have the top off.

I would also check the gas filter. The gas cap mounts on top of the body, if this was off and the hose unplugged while it was in the body shop, a lot of dirt and debris could be in the bottom of your tank just waiting to clog up your filter when you put fresh gas in it.

the power valve needs to be changed.......it got dry....and now there is a huge vacuum leak there. put in a new one and you will probably be fine

It doesn't create a vacuum leak when they rupture, fuel runs into the engine past the ruptured diaphragm.

He has an Edlebrock 600. It doesn't have a power valve. It has metering rods with step-up pistons and springs. To take the top off he has to take these out first.

Ah yes, have reread first post. I've had many Carter/Edelbrocks.

Probably water corrosion blocking the idle circuit/s.

I took the top off, cleaned it all out with a carburator cleaner and blew it out with air.
I just want to put another in-line fual filter right before the carburator.
I already have a big one after the tank but I read that it does not heart to have two- one before and one after the pump.
hopefully that would do it.

we have had problems putting two filter in line. It's hard for the pump to pump gas thru them. One large one should do.

Dwight

So today after putting the carburator together and putting the additional filter the engine run much better. It actually run good and i was able to settle it at around 800-900 rpm.
but it did not last too long. after it wormed up I took it for a test drive and when I came to a stop and took my foot of the gas the engine died.
then to start it i have to litterely flood it for it to turn and run. Its very sensetive and when its ideling at around a 1,000 rpm it dies after a minute or two.
what bugs me is the fact that it used to run just fine before it was laid to rest for that year and a half.
any other suggestions?
shuld I look into the distributor or coil?

If it runs OK at higher speeds and under load, you should concentrate on the carburetor. Ignition problems typically have the opposite symptoms.

Sitting leads to fuel evaporation and gummy deposits in the bottom of the carburetor, where the idle feed circuits are.

Does your car any rubber hoses on it??
 

abram99768 I think you will fine that the rubber hoses where wet at one point and then dryed and wet again. The main problen is that the new gas is eating the rubber and causing small partials to get through you gas filters and into the carb. Methanol gas eats rubber. Have had the same problem with my jeeps,79TA and chainsaw motors with not running well at idle. It's the gas having lunch. You need to replace the lines with resistant hoses to methanol. Install a new fuel filter with a 10-15 micron reading. Clean out all the fuel lines that are steel. IF the gas tank is easy to pull, clean this too. This winter for storage, full tank with stablizer, but remove and drain the carb of gas. A couple of guys have also had problem with these carbs because of the coatings in them flaking or silver partials in the bottom of the blows or in the float needle that stops gas from getting to the bowls. It's the coating or sealer they use and it gets into the idle curcuits and cause the same problem you are having. Also becareful when blowing out the carb. 100 psi can also push the junk into the idle curcuits and cause more problems than you want. A good set of jet drill bits are not cheap but do help remove and debrie. One good gas filter should be all you need. IMO keep the filter in the back of the car to reduce heat soaking of the fuel when the temps are hot both inside and out side of the car. Rick L.

Hi
I am pretty sure that the rubber hoses that I used say for fuel injection on them, but I will look into it.

In the mean time, I went to a local speed shop and the guy over there (been in te bussines for dacades) has told me that the eddelbrock carburator is no good. that I should go with a holley.
Reason: because today fuel is different then two, three years ago and the holley does a better job itemizing it and creating a better fual/air mixture.
In other words, my brand new carburator does not fit todays standards. It was built to use the gas they used back in the 70's.

What do you guys think, is he trying to squeese money out of me or what?

Abram,

I have been running an Edelbrock for a few years and have had no issue. The main thing that you have no idea of is what some a$$hole might have done to your car while it was setting in the body shop. Maybe nothing but who knows.

My thinking, as was said before, there is something in your gas tank, lines, pump, filter or even in your carb that is plugging something up.

Here is what I would do.

Have your carb rebuilt by a professional or just go ahead and buy a new one if you want. Having it rebuilt should be fine though.
Replace the fuel filters

Drop your gas tank and remove all of your flexable lines.Take an air hose and start blowing air into your fuel lines from the engine compartment backwards.

Take your gas tank to a radiator shop and ask them to clean and reseal it on the inside.

Check your fuel pump to be sure it is pumping fuel or just go ahead and replace it.

This seems like a lot but in the end you will KNOW that there is nothing wrong with your fuel system.

Just a thought, I could be wrong.

Hello. Test

I don't personally care for Carter/Edelbrock carburetors, but I know several people who are using them on Cobra replicas without issue. If you were having performance/tuning issues I could see where replacement might be appropriate, but not just because the idle feed circuits are plugged up after prolonged storage.