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09-01-2011, 10:06 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Milwaukee,
Wi
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, 95 EFI 5.0
Posts: 297
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Not Ranked
Stages recommended for painting.
I am looking to have someone finish the fiberglass work and paint the car.
What steps or stages should I be asking who ever does the car to see if they are covering all the bases?
I talked to one guy who said he would fill in all the seams, then DA sand the gel coat, fix pin holes.
I can't recall if he said put a primer on, I think he did.
Then apply the base coat, stripes, either 2 or 4 coats of clear (my choice if I wanted to spend the extra on 2 additional clear coats)
I was under the impression that multiple base coats are applied, maybe with sanding in between. Then again I am not familiar with all the steps in painting a car and the guy was giving teh basics.
(Did not help the wife was in a rush to go someplace and I was not able to probe deeper in the process the guy was going to do. )
DV or someone else familiar with painting, would you be so kind as to detail the steps you do so that I can use that as the reference.
The guy said he uses all DuPont
Thanks.
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09-01-2011, 12:49 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: MARKSVILLE,LA.,,
Posts: 3,235
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Not Ranked
You only need enough of the base coat to cover the sealer,depends on the color has to how many coats of base color is needed.....
once body work is done, car should be primed and blocked and primed again. Then wet sanded,then sealer is applied, then painted....
Depending on what your looking for in a paint job,2 double wet coats of clear should be enough for all except a top quality ($$$) show car paint job...
I'd be more interested in your bodyman's expirence in working with glass cars/boats...one whom has done a number of glass cars and boats would have a better handle on how to do it as opposed to someone that has never done any work on glass cars......
If someone has little to no expirence in working on glass cars, they can ruin a body with DA sander in a little while, same goes for sanding fiberglass, one must have some expirence to do it properly........
David
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DAVID GAGNARD
Last edited by DAVID GAGNARD; 09-01-2011 at 12:52 PM..
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09-01-2011, 01:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston, Texas, U.S.,
Posts: 87
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Not Ranked
I would echo David's comments. If the body man is good with glass, don't expect the work to be done quickly. My car was 2 1/2 months body work, 1 day painting.
Jeff
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09-01-2011, 01:42 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: MARKSVILLE,LA.,,
Posts: 3,235
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Not Ranked
[QUOTEI talked to one guy who said he would fill in all the seams, then DA sand the gel coat, fix pin holes.
I can't recall if he said put a primer on, I think he did.
][/quote]
After re-reading your post,filling the seams and "roughing" them in with a DA sander is fine,unless the body is in very bad shape,there is no need to go over the gel coat with a DA sander and I would advise not to do it, way to easy to screw it up.....
Once the seams have been filled/sanded/primed, all that would be needed is to sand the entire car,then prime it/block it and re-prime.....
On any paint job, the prep work is 95% of the labor and without proper prep work, the best painter in the world can not do a good paint job!!!!!
As Jeff said, painting a Cobra from start to finish in the paint booth should take one day,depending on the body and work needed to get it to that stage,it could weeks to months!!!!!!!!!!!
David
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DAVID GAGNARD
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09-01-2011, 03:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: American Fork,
Ut
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 Cobra
Posts: 930
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Not Ranked
Who is making sure the hood, trunk and door margins are correct?
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09-01-2011, 06:32 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
The only thing I see good he is using only Dupont Products...to damned exspensive but in my opinion the best.
He's talking "Pin Holes"?????? Sounds like he has done to may FFR Cobras If that is the case, run as fast as you can!
My way in a brief- Brief:
1st the body is mounted as it will be to the frame, COMPLETELY!
The doors are fitted as perfect as possible, THEN what ever body work needed to bring them to perfection is completed.
Hood then Trunk or vice versa
Stripe if allocated:
Part two, the car is totally blocked, once the entire body work is finished, "I" shoot the body with (DuPont's" Vari-PRIME Yes guys this is a metal self etching primer, I know!) Veri-Prime is like water, it soaks into fiberglass like a sponge then hardens like glass! Absolutely NO Shrinking, NO Bleed Through- 20 years later! Unfortunately I do have proof!
"I" paint the color of the stripe- 2 maybe three coats of base coat. If you really want to be safe use HOK's surface clear and put a coat of clear on the stripe color. (This prevents dirt showing up later, fingerprints, etc, and can be painted over with the color of car immediately.
Mask off the stripe- totally wash the car and dry- let set over night. (You do have the body off the frame -NO?)
Wet sand again with 600, seal the body.(You can do this before the stripe.) Forgot the primer, I do a 2K type primer usually and block it all BY HAND!
I Will let the sealer sit for 24 hours-Hey, this is MY way!
Wet sand with 600 again, dry and clean!
From here it will get Two to Four coats of Basecoat Color. (Depends on the color.)
IF the color & Body work is flawless- Two coats of clear-PERIOD!
IMPROPERLY Applied- more than Two Coats of Clear is paying for certain break down in time! Cracking, Hazing, fading, etc., etc., Guaranteed!
Do I put on more than two coats of clear? Absolutely! Many times, but, for the second set of two coats I wait at least 24 hours some times more, I totally block the entire car with 600, dry- clean and shoot.
IF I do more than this-rare- I may wait a week or more before I wet sand again.
Then assuming it is NOT going to be "Planed" after 600 I start to buff. Takes me about 4 to 10 days to buff one out.
Damn after all this typing I could have painted the one in the shop!
Price on Dupont materials alone today is over $4,500.00!
DV
One serious hint, for a quality -long term- paint job he HAS to know Fiberglass!
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09-02-2011, 07:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Milwaukee,
Wi
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, 95 EFI 5.0
Posts: 297
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Not Ranked
Well I am still trying to shop around and trying to figure out what to ask and know what is actually needed.
I am also going to call a place that specialized in boat fiberglass repair (if they will do a kit car) to see if what they offer to do the body work...
I will be mounting the doors, hood & trunk using DV method (already cut the plates in the crowl bar out).
I plan of having the car painted off of the frame and on a jig.
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09-03-2011, 04:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Just make sure you fit every thing before paint!
DV
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09-03-2011, 09:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Redding,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Maker
Posts: 722
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Not Ranked
The biggest challenge to getting a good paint job on a cobra, is Is finding a painter that can read the back of the can!
__________________
Bill Emerson
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09-03-2011, 01:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Oconomowoc,WI,
WI
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR MKIV 482 Aluminum by Mike Forte
Posts: 34
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake
Well I am still trying to shop around and trying to figure out what to ask and know what is actually needed.
I am also going to call a place that specialized in boat fiberglass repair (if they will do a kit car) to see if what they offer to do the body work...
I will be mounting the doors, hood & trunk using DV method (already cut the plates in the crowl bar out).
I plan of having the car painted off of the frame and on a jig.
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Where in Wisconsin are you located. I had mine done locally in Milwaukee and highly reccommend. Check out my blog for pics and if you are close enough you can inspect for yourself.
__________________
Lew Poberezny http://ffr7347build.blogspot.com/
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09-04-2011, 02:34 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Bill E.,
That's good!
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09-04-2011, 09:51 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Redding,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Maker
Posts: 722
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Not Ranked
thanks Ed I know you have ben through it as well with painters, and why you usually end up doing it you self, to get the job you wont. A poor paint job can negate a years worth of world class fabricating and build work on a car. So I think we should make a list here of painters to watch out for . You Might wont to rethink using a painter IF==1. He is carrying a brown paper bag and had a ring of paint around his mouth and nose
__________________
Bill Emerson
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09-12-2011, 02:32 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Milwaukee,
Wi
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, 95 EFI 5.0
Posts: 297
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Not Ranked
Just got back from Hawaii...
back to work on assembly anf getting this thing painted.
Lew, I am sending you a PM to get contact info.
Bill, I think a list of questions for kit owners to ask painters would be a great resource as I am sure this part of the build gets farmed out, and for the DIY'ers it would guide them in the right direction and clue them into something they might not think of.
Lew, your profile is setup to not accept PM..
Send me a PM with you contact info, and where did you get your body done at?
Last edited by Wisconsin_Snake; 09-12-2011 at 02:48 PM..
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