A Poll, What should be a re-call on CR's;

[Double Venom]

First the Poll.
How many guys actually road race, autocross? (NOT just CR guys!)
Have you ever been at a track and seen the rotors glowing red on a Cobra? Daylight no less!
Scary!

I am thinking of making a complete kit to "Directly" cool the rotors & brakes on just about any Cobra. Easy to install with "minimum" skill. Can be installed on completed cars with no alterations or repairs to paint. The Kit will come with all the necessary parts. Now the vent(s) opening on THE NOSE can be actually used for its intended purpose.

Obviously if there is enough interest I will invest in the mouldings/bucks and necessary parts. Install time.....maybe an hour.

RE-CALL Suggestion! If your car is done, open the left door, look down inside the door opening (on the front), see your wiring harness? Chances are, it has to be, pinched between a fiberglass body enforcement and the frame! Over time this will wear through your harness. (This modification is NOT in the manual anywhere. I have totally forgotten to mention this simple mod until my latest Cobra.) If you have one of those small air powered saws it is easy to reach through the door opening and cut out half a circle that the harness will fit into without being pinched. Come on guys I know that 99% of you never noticed this let alone prepped for it!

COIL OVERS: Suggestion, do NOT even temporarily assemble the springs without adding some type of Permanent Lubrication such as "Anti-ziese".
Don't forget to put some lube on the bottom of the bottom coil too!
You bring it to me to adjust, build and haven't done this I'm going to charge you for all the blood and band-aids I go through!

J.D. you're forgiven but your the last one!
DV

[cobraduke]

Ed,
I'd be interested in the front brake cooling kit. I had given this thought before. The air duct inlets for behind the side openings are available (or were a couple of years ago) as part of a system to get fresh air to the cockpit. The long pole in the tent was the duct mount at the rotors/spindle. If you do a kit, I recommend the orange silicone flex tubing in 3 inch diameter, rather than the black stuff that falls apart just from flexing in a year. I think it is a great idea. So many of the various versions of the cobra use the Mustang II front end, I'd think there would be a wide market especially if it was a nicely finished kit.

Mike

[Double Venom]

Mike,
I know the silicone tubing you are talking about--pricey! On the other hand I wouldn't dream of using the cheap tubing! But, 18"s of tubing will do both sides.
DV

[tcrist]

Not sure about it being a re-call, but a few changes.

For a CR.
Make the hood and doors mount off of the body not the radiator surround and the cowl hoop. That way the hood and doors move with the body. It should also make alignment easier.

[Double Venom]

Terry,
Maybe I am reading this wrong, but structurally nothing on a CR is mounted into fiberglass! If I'm reading this right the CR would have to be built with a steel "Bird Cage" like the older Vett's had. (Now those early Vett's are disappearing quick because the "Bird Cages" have been rotting out for years. Cost of replacement is almost as expensive as a real 289 Cobra!

Built a few Cobras, maybe a hundred or so and hanging the doors and hood are simple projects--

[tcrist]

Hanging the doors and hood are not the issue. Moving independently from the body is what I was refering to. I know that all of my bolts are tight and on some bumps I can see my hood move different than the body.

Now I did not use the standard CR hood latch setup because I don't like to trust the thin cable on the latch. I am just using the standard cobra type hood handles like a lot of other brands are.

Before you ask, no I did not use the cables on the door latches either.

[Double Venom]

Those little wires for the hood and door latches are stainless steel and are Aircraft approved! Much,much stronger than you would think.
DV

[tcrist]

That could be DV. Just personal preferance.

[Double Venom]

Absolutely! That's the name of this game. "Individuality".

[Double Venom]

Terry,
Once again, move to snow/cold country, I can fix that nuance! First we take the body off, using the correct materials, I can actually make that "Bird Cage" out of steel 'glass it into the nose of the Cobra then we can come up with a new hinge for the hood. Wall-Ah! Now the hood will move in Sync. with the body! I see a new change coming in my next CR's build....If there is one?
DV
Wish I would have thought of this years ago!

[Wisconsin_Snake]

Speaking of recalls... I remember DV mentioning that the front sway bar is too heavy duty for the Cobra being it was made for a Bronco.
What would be a good donor replacement part for the front sway bar?

[Double Venom]

No donor bar known. For about a 100 bucks and a little work you can buy a great one from SPEEDWAY and make your own.
DV

[mervy49]

The heavy sway bar works well the heavy 429 motor although. Little too much for a small block.
BTW are we talking about the same Classic Roadsters that used to be in North Dakota?

[tcrist]

CR LTD and CRII versions also.

[Double Venom]

All the same: CR inc., CR LTD., CR II, Fargo to Mn., same, same with improvements on each growth.

The sway bar does work with BB's, but actual testing shows a smaller bar for each size tests better! (TRC. Marysville, Oh. Honda's 7 mile proving grounds- Honda's test drivers/engineers.)

DV