Diy

[Lightingrod]

I'm very happy with the job "Pro-Kote-Indy" did on the headers and pipes! Nice people to work with, quick turn-around and fair price, ($513.00 including the ride home!)! index.html

The new engine (SBC 388, solid roller cam, AFR 210 Race Ready heads, RPM intake and Holley 800 cfm carb) for my Cobra has been sitting for almost a year! The hold up has been time and headers! The ones from CRII are a joke for any real HP.

Well it seems I'm going to be making my on headers. I had a few ideas but none panned out! The Schoenfeld IMCA Modified Adjustable headers came close but alas no cigar! IMCA Modified-Schoenfeld Headers I am going to be using their 1 7/8ths collectors (style #9). Hooker 1 ¾ flanges with stubs, 3.5” to 3” slip on reducers and 3” turnouts. Hooker does think HIGHLY of their stuff but it is good stuff!

So, they are going to be stepped headers. 1 ¾” from the flange out about 10”, step up to 1 7/8” and make a 90* turn and into the collector (about 12-15" of 1 7/8” tube) 3 ½” collector, reduce to 3” and into 3” Cherry Bombs (4” by 30” body) and then 3” turnouts! It may be a bit loud but I think it should run and sound pretty good?

With a little luck I should be able to get them all done and tested before the snow flies! When I put it up for the winter, pull it all off and send out for coating!

I also ordered the 700R4 reverse pattern full manual valve body with lock-up and braking. It can lock-up the convertor in 2-3-4, so after 1st it should act almost like a manual trans?

Well that’s the plan, so I guess we will see how it goes!

[G_Edmonds]

Lightingrod,
Make two sets while you're at it. I've been wanting to do the same thing. Especially since I'm planning to up the power over the winter. I'm running a similar set-up except I went with the 200R-4 for the gear spacing.
Good luck with the project and post some pictures.
-Greg

[Jerry Clayton]

you two need to go to Stainlessheaders.com and see the fabrication series he has about building headers---they also do custom stuff and you probably could work a deal for 2 sets--the plastic system he has for mockup is a super way of working out lengths/bends.

Doing stepped tubes helps make the buildup simpler where you can slide one tube inside another helps with the fit up.

Stainlessheaders is also an excellent place both quality/price wise for stainless header components as well as Cone Engineering on the west coast.

Altho he is pretty busy--A-spec Tuning in Schamburg Il does super work in exhaust stuff--he built the exhaust on Petesgtsv10 (FF5) but an outstanding example of superior work--maybe Pete can post a few pics---

I would like to recommend every body watch the vidios of Stainless Headers going thru the steps of fabbing a set of headers---it is a series of 6 videos on there web site and each is 6 - 11 minutes long---get a cup of coffee or a six pack and watch them close --

[Lightingrod]

Well I did a post yesterday but it seems to have disappeared?

I think the LOUD pedal is going to be very LOUD indeed! Looking down the bore of those 3" in/out Cherry Bombs I don't see how it can be anything but! Schoenfeld makes some good stuff the 1 7/8 collectors look really good, very nice bends and clean welds!

Greg, the gear spacing on the 200R-4 is for sure much better than the 700R-4! I have a friend that is putting a GearStar behind a GMPP 572/620 with Victor Jr. heads in a 64 Vette. Talk about nice, it’s going to be NICE!

I swapped him the Victor Jr. heads for the SBC 388. It came out of a drag Camaro he was returning to the street. It was a 12-1 7500 rpm screamer! I went through it and detuned it a bit, well a LOT! I went more for torque and not all out HP!

Headers & Pipes

Greg I’ll be sure and post some photos, if you like what you see my buddy who is really doing the work says a second set should be a piece of cake. The headers seem pretty simple, with 1# being the worst and the Schoenfeld collectors taking care of the exit! Wishful thinking, I hope not!

Jerry thanks for the tip, we will for sure take a look at the video before getting started!

[Lightingrod]

Getting there! 1 3/4", 1 7/8" and 3 1/2" out!

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[Lightingrod]

I'm hoping my output will be close to the engine built by Ceralli Competition engines below!

Dyno Test Criteria, Ceralli Competition Engines

550 HP 406 Street Engine
Engine: 406ci
Heads: AFR 210cc Race Ready
Compression: 10.3
Carburetor: 750 Carb
Ignition: MSD HEI Billet Distributor 36° Timing
Cam: Lunati Hyd. Roller Cams 232°/242°
0560-.570 lift W/ 1.6 Rockers
Exhaust: 1 3/4" Headers
Fuel: 93 Octane Pump Gas
RPM TORQUE H.P.
2500 463 220
3000 468 267
3500 457 304
4000 465 354
4500 534 457
5000 540 514
5500 510 534
6000 483 551

My engine:
Engine: 388ci
Heads: AFR 210cc Race Ready
Compression: 10.0
Carburetor: 750/800 CFM
Ignition: MSD HEI Billet Distributor 36° Timing
Cam: Comp Solid Roller Cam 236°/236° (with rev kit)
0551-.551 lift W/ 1.6 Rockers
Exhaust: 1 3/4", Step 1 7/8” Headers
Fuel: 93 Octane Pump Gas

4 Bolt block, decked/squared, main studs. Forged Eagle crank and H-beam 5.7” rods, KB ICON forged pistons, internally balanced! I would have liked 6” rods but I had the 5.7” on hand. Though my Comp Solid Roller Cam is a little small than the Lunati Hyd. Roller, I think it will perform as good as or maybe even a little better due to the more aggressive ramps and better valve control, even without the rev kit! I’m also hoping for even better low-end torque!

With my luck the day we drop it in we will get 6" of snow that will stay on the ground till spring!


Al

[Lightingrod]

The headers are ready to Bag & Tag! I'll make a few calls on Monday and decide where to send them and if they can coat the mufflers with out burning them out! I think I will do some heat sheilds anyway. Between the Vette and Cobra I got enough pipe burns on my old legs!

Louie (built the headers) fired it up with everything but the turn-outs (old engine)! I couldn't make it by, he said it was a bit LOUD but sounded GREAT! PAddulling the engine & tranny out next week. Wonderful, our first snow tomorrow! By Christmas?

Has anybody used Pro-Kote-Indy?

[Lightingrod]

Well I'm going with Pro-Kote-Indy! I called them yesterday and they seemed pretty good. They can coat the mufflers and everything except the mufflers will be coated inside and out. Turn around should be about a week plus shipping. Their prices are a bit higher than what is listed on their web-site. They are saying $475-$500 price range and this is flange to turn outs!

index.html

We didn’t grind the welds flat but opted for strength vs. looks! So they are obvious but should be less so once coated? Not all mufflers can be coated, one of the keys is how well they can be sealed during the process! They are going to use a threaded rod through the muffler with a plug on each end for mine. I will snap some photos before packing them up so we can do some before and after comparisons.

[G_Edmonds]

The headers look great but I think I would need a flange. Are you putting the headers in place and then dropping in the motor? Body off?

[Lightingrod]

"G" they slide in from below with no problem if the front tires are about a foot off the ground! I have not sent them off yet. I'm thinking of using a V-Band style clamp between the reducers and mufflers! If so I will need to weld the rings for the clamps on and the reducers to the headers!

[tcrist]

Al,

The ones that I have seen that slide on have small brackets welded to each side and then have a spring between the brackets pulling the two together. Other wise you might get exhaust leaks between the two.

[Marcus521]

Lightingrod,
Make two sets while you're at it. I've been wanting to do the same thing. Especially since I'm planning to up the power over the winter. I'm running a similar set-up except I went with the 200R-4 for the gear spacing.
Good luck with the project and post some pictures.
-Greg

[Lightingrod]

Originally Posted by tcrist

Al,

The ones that I have seen that slide on have small brackets welded to each side and then have a spring between the brackets pulling the two together. Other wise you might get exhaust leaks between the two.

We went ahead and welded the tubes to the collectors. So what you see in the photos above is now one piece. We are also going to weld the 3 1/2" taperer reducer to the collector. I'm thinking of then using a V-band clamp between the reducer and muffler!
Dynatech 794-91230 - Dynatech V-Clamp Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I'll get some photos tomorrow!

[Lightingrod]

I hope to get them shipped tomorrow!

[Lightingrod]

A little higher res photo.
http://www.chinaquick-1.com/hr-header-1.jpg

[James Stern]

Great work.