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04-10-2016, 07:06 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Cobra Make, Engine: 1997 CR, 351c
Posts: 19
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Not Ranked
Air Shocks?
Hello, I have a CR II and sometimes my rear wheels hit the fenders when I hit large dips/rough roads. I've read here about going to coilovers but I don't plan on racing and hope this might be an easier, cheaper option. Monroe makes an adjustable air shock system (MA803) for the old VW bugs that appears to be plug-n-play with little or no modifications. I need just a little more support over the existing whimpy shocks. Has anyone gone this route or can off some advise? Thx
Last edited by Conchyjodyoos; 04-10-2016 at 07:07 AM..
Reason: Part #
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04-10-2016, 09:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,521
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Not Ranked
The problem with air shocks is that your primary control is by height/air pressure. More air pressure means more height. If your car actually sits low and needs to come up in the rear some - an air shock might work. But if you like the stance or just need a very slight increase or need to stiffen the spring/shock action a little - you probably will not find air shocks to be the solution.
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04-10-2016, 01:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: All original, with Chevy engine since 1964
Posts: 996
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Not Ranked
I had the same problem- My rear end would bottom out over large bumps, and I had my rear spring adjusters cranked all the way down.
I replaced my rear springs with MOOG CC631's (52 bucks from Summitracing)
With the new springs, my adjusters are only turned down 2 inches to achieve the same ride height as before (I still have 3 more inches of adjustment available); and the rear of the car never bottoms out anymore.
Ride quality was also unaffected- My butt felt no difference, except that I no longer have to prepare my spine for major compression every time I go over a raised railroad track...
__________________
- Robert
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04-11-2016, 07:33 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Cobra Make, Engine: 1997 CR, 351c
Posts: 19
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Not Ranked
Thanks guys, looks like new springs is the way to go, appreciate the part #
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04-11-2016, 10:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Sheesh,First and foremost adjust your rear springs if you haven't. Very few people have to change springs to fix your said problem.
PS RACING is not the only reason for "Coil Overs! ADJUSTABLE ride height and Comfort level is way ahead of going to Coil Overs just for racing.
DV
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04-11-2016, 10:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Cobra Make, Engine: 1997 CR, 351c
Posts: 19
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Double Venom
Sheesh,First and foremost adjust your rear springs if you haven't. Very few people have to change springs to fix your said problem.
PS RACING is not the only reason for "Coil Overs! ADJUSTABLE ride height and Comfort level is way ahead of going to Coil Overs just for racing.
DV
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Yes, the car is up on my lift now and I can get to it this afternoon, will check first and hopefully a cheap fix. For you folks that have gone coil over does the car ride any softer? My wife's boobs would appreciate it
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04-11-2016, 11:26 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: No city...only 118 residents in Manter,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Auto Works body, Ron Godell Racecars chassis, 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 HO (converted to carb), W/C T-5, 3.73's in a Ford 9" Traction-Loc.
Posts: 812
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Not Ranked
My replica uses coil-overs...standard Mustang II front end and custom parallel 4-bar suspension on the rear. It rides every bit as nicely as my Honda Accord.
Cheers!!
Doug
__________________
YD,E./PNB
No names were changed to protect the innocent!
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04-17-2016, 06:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Cobra Make, Engine: 1997 CR, 351c
Posts: 19
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Not Ranked
Update: Once I got my clutch situation under control I went back to my rear ride height. The good news is I gave the drivers side two turns and it looks perfect, the bad news is the passenger side is seized. Tried everything including an impact with no luck, once I concluded it was toast I grabbed the treads with a huge pipe wrench, no dice. So what are my options? Does the addition of coil overs allow the delete the springs? Is it a pita to replace the screw adjustment assembly? Thx
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04-27-2016, 08:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Billings,
Mt.
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic 427 With a built 429
Posts: 16
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Not Ranked
pipe wrench ?! on threads? From the top, lube with a good penetrating oil, allow to soak for a week. Heat is helpful but the proximity to the body cancels that. You may remove shocks, drop the axle as far as possible, with out damaging brake line,! and then remove the coil spring, exposing the bottom of the adjustment thread. Yes it is a pita to replace the screw assembly. If you let it soak and get the adjustment screw/bolt to back out the top, then run a tap through to clean up the threads then replace with Stainless bolt. Worse comes to worst you will have to drill the bolt out from the bottom and with a easy out (the easy out in this case would be for a left hand thread!) remove the bolt. It will require a big bit and hopefully a magnetic base drill with very careful alignment . Remember a 1/2 drill with a bit approaching 1 inch can be a wrist breaker !! OR -- perhaps a couple of spring spacers would give you the clearance you desire.
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05-01-2016, 09:08 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Cobra Make, Engine: 1997 CR, 351c
Posts: 19
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Not Ranked
I had a cam bearing pop out during my cam swap so the suspension is on the back burner while I get that sorted. I'll post once I can get back on it.
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