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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2016, 10:01 AM
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Default CR 427 parts availability?

Hi all. Just signed up as a member. I'm looking for a left side pipe replacement for my CR 427, built in '91. Any leads?
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Old 06-30-2016, 12:12 PM
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The side pipes used on 91 where very restrictive. You probably want to update both with with newer less restrictive side pipes.
Someone here is starting up the Classic Roadsters again and are located in Canada.
Their ID is gn_n_60_shelby, probably want to contact them to see if they have side pipes available.
Otherwise there is a place that sells the muffler section (you'll need to search that out) and get someone to cut your mufflers out and weld the now ones in. Again with will be an upgrade cause they will be less restrictive.
I just hope yours are not chromed or with the nickle finish like mine.
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:04 PM
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gn_n_60_shelby started a thread earlier this year looking for the supplier of CR II side pipes. If he's had success in that regard he may have the answer, otherwise this topic has been covered repeatedly and you may want to check out these threads:
Classic Roadster exhaust dilemma
I re-did my car's side pipes... AGAIN.

As others have noted, in this thread as well as the links above, the original side pipes are quite restrictive. Replacing the mufflers with other, higher flowing, mufflers will uncork the exhaust and probably the cheapest power adder for your CR II.

If your pipes are chromed or plated you'll have some additional challenges, but this could be your justification to have them ceramic coated!
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Last edited by cycleguy55; 06-30-2016 at 01:07 PM..
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:41 PM
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I have not found a side pipe with a 4-hole flange that bolts up to the 4-bolt flange on the Classic Roadsters' header.

I did, however, find a flange gasket that looks to be the correct one:

COLLECTOR/CONNECTOR Flange Exhaust Gasket

I figured that when my car's headers finally rust through, I will probably order a set of these headers and intermediate pipes from Vintage wheels, and just re-weld my existing flanges, mufflers, etc to them:

side pipes and headers : Vintage Wheels, Mustang, Hot Rod and Muscle Car
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Old 06-30-2016, 07:47 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic 427, I purchased it May 2005, the kit was bought in 1991. I'm not sure when it was completed! Installed GMPP Connect & Cruise 376/525 with T-56 S/M 3.55 gears about 2 years ago! 1/4 miles is with old setup!
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I have a pair, they were fine when I pulled them off a couple of years ago! If your interested maybe we can work something out! Let me know if you are and I'll pull them out and post some photo's! I got the headers as well but they are for a SBC! I made gaskets out of copper, seemed to work pretty good!

I'm going to be moving to Florida next year so they will be one (2) less thing to move! I will be posting up some stuff for sale in next 5-6 months, mostly Chevy SBC & BBC.
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:40 PM
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Thanks everyone for all the good info. Will keep you posted on progress ...
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Old 07-04-2016, 06:41 PM
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Facts: With modified CR's a stock carb'd or EFI WILL gain a huge rate of 45HP! Tested numerous times on many different Dyno's.

The bigger the block aka, 351 approximately 65 HP. A Striker 351 will easily gain 100 + HP.

Hard to believe but every TEST was documented.
DV
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:16 PM
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I believe it, I also think that was part of the gasket problem I had!
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:45 AM
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A retune will be in order with better exhaust. But I'm sure everyone already knows that.
I used Classic Chambered for my muffler upgrade. Sounds better too.
John
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Old 07-08-2016, 11:23 AM
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I used 3" ID Cherry Bombs, loud but not as loud as the Super 40's on my 454SS!
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaSnaka View Post
A retune will be in order with better exhaust. But I'm sure everyone already knows that.
I used Classic Chambered for my muffler upgrade. Sounds better too.
John
MaSnaka,

I'm getting ready to order from chambered exhaust replacement mufflers(30") to replace the mufflers on my CR1 1990 build. Did you go with packed or unpacked? Slight concern for me because the car will be kept in a gated Florida community when I'm done rebuilding it and I'm a little concerned about upsetting too many of the neighbors late in the evenings.

Not sure how much if at all the outer packing around the muffler tube will restrict power (look at the pics on Classic Chambered's website), but just predominantly deaden some of the harsher sound.
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:31 PM
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Here's mine using the Cherry Bombs, I had them ceramic coated. The band straps are stainless, should have used plain and had them coated as well. It's not really that loud if you stay out of it!

https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5b&oe=57EADCB8

https://www.facebook.com/al.ingram.1...type=2&theater

Cherry Bomb 87519CB | Buy Cherry Bomb Glasspack Mufflers at JEGS
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:42 PM
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RB,
I used the 30" long with the 2 1/2" bore, packing and ceramic coated. I also faced the open side of the internal louvers towards the outlet. The sound was deeper and tickled my insides at first before I got used to it. I use earplugs when I drive and carry spares for my passengers. I was worried about the noise in my neighborhood too but have learned the guys who live around me love to hear the car. Ask me to rev a little more for them. I try not to be a nuisance with it. I don't let it idle in the driveway unless absolutely necessary. I leave many times on Sunday mornings before 6:30am for Super Car Sunday. No complaints except from my wife. I was at a parade with several other Cobras and was told by an onlooker that my car sounded the best. It was the only big block in the group but I'll take the compliment.

John
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbgray1 View Post

Not sure how much if at all the outer packing around the muffler tube will restrict power (look at the pics on Classic Chambered's website), but just predominantly deaden some of the harsher sound.
Correct - packing does not reduce performance in a glasspack - it simply reduces noise.

The first time I re-did my car's mufflers, I shot some video to compare the sound of the stock CR mufflers, versus the 30 inch glasspacks:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLjC3GdzjHU[/ame]
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moore_rb View Post
Correct - packing does not reduce performance in a glasspack - it simply reduces noise.

The first time I re-did my car's mufflers, I shot some video to compare the sound of the stock CR mufflers, versus the 30 inch glasspacks:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLjC3GdzjHU
Moore_rb,

Thanks for the response. I noticed from your video that there is a small bracket just past the collector to mount the front of the exhaust to the frame. This attachment point doesn't exist on my original CR 1 design. Maybe explains why I kept breaking the rear mount on the side pipes (triangular bracket with three holes near the turndown). I welded up a beefier steel plate bracket that no longers breaks. My plan is to completely rebuild the side pipes with new Classic Chambered packed tubes, new turnouts, and fabricate new brackets before I send of to North Carolina for Ceramic Jet Coating.

Did you add this front mounting bracket or was it part of your original kit? Or thinking more about it, is what I see on your video just past the collector an O2 sensor for your EFI?

BTW, sounds great! My concern is I have a stroked 351W, larger than normal cam and the engine dynoed at 442 HP when my engine builder tested in on the dyno. Even though it's still technically a Small Block, the sound with the stock CR mufflers is very loud. More than enough power (if you can ever say that) for this lightweight car. Hell, my 2010 C6 Vette has 434 HP and it's a blast drive and weighs almost 1000lbs more.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaSnaka View Post
RB,
I used the 30" long with the 2 1/2" bore, packing and ceramic coated. I also faced the open side of the internal louvers towards the outlet. The sound was deeper and tickled my insides at first before I got used to it. I use earplugs when I drive and carry spares for my passengers. I was worried about the noise in my neighborhood too but have learned the guys who live around me love to hear the car. Ask me to rev a little more for them. I try not to be a nuisance with it. I don't let it idle in the driveway unless absolutely necessary. I leave many times on Sunday mornings before 6:30am for Super Car Sunday. No complaints except from my wife. I was at a parade with several other Cobras and was told by an onlooker that my car sounded the best. It was the only big block in the group but I'll take the compliment.

John
MaSnaka,

Thanks for the reply. When you reversed the direction of the internal flanges I would assume this flows better, potential negating the dampening effects of the packing. Did you happen to test it with the louvers facing forward? And was there a significant noise reduction versus internal louvers facing rear? When I'm complete with my rebuild, this car will be in my Ft Myers Florida gated County Club/Golf community. Most folks are pretty cool, but there are some "older" folks there that may not be too pleased with my wife and coming home late from a restaurant around midnight and hearing us drive by even at idle. I'm not overly concerned, just trying to understand the difference and thinking about being a good neighbor without sacrificing too much performance at Top End.

I may test the Classic Chambered 30" tubes before I weld them together by temporary taping them together with foil HVAC tape, one side at a time just to hear the difference before I do final TIG welding of the system.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbgray1 View Post
Moore_rb,

Thanks for the response. I noticed from your video that there is a small bracket just past the collector to mount the front of the exhaust to the frame. This attachment point doesn't exist on my original CR 1 design. Maybe explains why I kept breaking the rear mount on the side pipes (triangular bracket with three holes near the turndown). I welded up a beefier steel plate bracket that no longers breaks. My plan is to completely rebuild the side pipes with new Classic Chambered packed tubes, new turnouts, and fabricate new brackets before I send of to North Carolina for Ceramic Jet Coating.

Did you add this front mounting bracket or was it part of your original kit? Or thinking more about it, is what I see on your video just past the collector an O2 sensor for your EFI?

BTW, sounds great! My concern is I have a stroked 351W, larger than normal cam and the engine dynoed at 442 HP when my engine builder tested in on the dyno. Even though it's still technically a Small Block, the sound with the stock CR mufflers is very loud. More than enough power (if you can ever say that) for this lightweight car. Hell, my 2010 C6 Vette has 434 HP and it's a blast drive and weighs almost 1000lbs more.
Moore_rb,

I watched your video again and realized the piece I saw just past the collector is an O2 sensor. Thanks again.

I am still wondering if anyone else has ever had a problem with the this rear bracket breaking? I triple checked all engine mounts and trans mounts and all are good. Just the massive force on hard launches causes enough flex in the sidepipe to break the thin bracket material. I'll TIG together some new ones from thicker guage steel when I remake the pipes. Also interesting is that I only ever broke the driver side rear bracket.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:35 AM
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Yes, you are correct that I don't have a forward frame mount- what you probably saw were the O2 sensors for my FI...

Mine has not broken a rear bracket (yet), but then again, my 302 makes 300 LbFt. of torque at the rear wheels, while your stroker is probably putting 430+ pounds of twist at the rear wheels.

Are your motor mounts stock Ford rubber? Perhaps an upgrade to high strength polyurethane mounts will keep the driver's side from twisting so hard under high torque ?

Also - regarding the direction of the "scoops" in glasspacks - I agree with MaSnaka that directing the scoops toward the rear adds a few DB, and makes the exhaust "raspier" at lower RPM's (I tried it both ways when I first did my car- forward facing on one side, and rear facing on the other- then I took a listen and decided to go with forward facing). I don't think the scoop direction changes the WOT noise level at all, nor does the direction of the scoops impact performance in any meaningful fashion. The video I posted is with the scoops facing forward.

My last 2 cents about going with glasspacks - If you decide to go that route, then use Jones Bullets - They are cheaper than the ClassicChambered mufflers, and they are made with the same aluminized steel materials so they will last just as long; and they sound the same- a glasspack is a glasspack.

For your engine's performance level, you need a 3 inch core tube, part number A4330B (35 bucks each from Summitracing)

However- If noise control, and being a good neighbor is your primary concern (and if cost is no object) then scrap the glasspack idea altogether, and weld in a pair of Flowmaster Slimline laminar flow sidepipe mufflers (part number 13530320) - These are $200 each from SummitRacing.

They say these Slimlines supposedly stay cooler to the touch than glasspacks as well, but I'm not sure how much cooler they run.

Below is a sound clip of the Slimlines- These things are WAY quieter than glasspacks, but they still sound mean enough to let everyone know what you got. They also won't pop and sputter on deceleration as much as glasspacks or classicChambered mufflers will (some guys like the popping and suckback sound, and some guys don't).

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlDiQkWNhIY[/ame]
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Last edited by moore_rb; 07-09-2016 at 10:38 AM.. Reason: typo
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:55 PM
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RB,
does your rear bracket have a fat rubber grommet between the frame and bracket? Allows some flex there. I have never had a problem with that bracket breaking loose.

John
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:53 PM
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I also use a 1/2 inch rubber grommet between the bracket and the frame mount
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