Kirk! We're under attack!! Suspension help. - Page 6

74proii · #**101** (**permalink**) 10-04-2016, 07:40 PM

So just a two cents worth. The MII stock springs are 14" for correct geometry, most aftermarket springs for Mii's are only 12" total. Which can start the problem, and or course require the strut rods. But I'm sure you guys knew that. There is a great debate about if the tubulars actually are strong enough alone.Pinto was retrofitted with the Mii components, that why the angles are different. I see a lot of great work, thanks for the pics. They will helpful to me. But why were the lower control arms not upgraded, as the uppers were. Are they not using Mustang lowers, or are they Explorer ones.

C5GTO · #**102** (**permalink**) 10-08-2016, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbgray1

Joel,

Does a 4 trailing arm setup benefit from a panhard bar?

Can you send me a pic of your setup? Would be very easy at this point.....just not sure Panhards and 4 trailing links go together.

I do know you want the panhard as long as absolutely possible, to create the largest arc possible.

Ok, I got a chance to put the car on jack stands and take some pics of the Panhard bar setup. The Panhard bar on my car is 33.5" center to center from pivot points. I've got a 9" in my car but the same setup should work on an 8.8". There's a tube running from the opposite side frame rail to the frame side mount to keep it from moving/flexing. The Panhard bar has about 3/8" clearance with the back of rear end housing and extends just short of the shock absorber. The side connected to the rear end runs under the frame rail.

I hope this helps

rbgray1 · #**103** (**permalink**) 10-12-2016, 07:49 AM

C5GTO,

Thanks for the pics. Should give me something to consider before I finish the suspension and frame painting.

RedHawk · #**104** (**permalink**) 10-13-2016, 09:35 PM

Been doing research on how to dial in car after blasting through autocross race a couple weeks ago.

Replacing front steering gearbox with new flaming river unit. This way I can reduce slop and get proper adjustments with tie rods.

Replacing all the steering shafts and U joints. A lot of play in U joints. Either going with flaming river or original borgenson.

Vasilating on Flaming river steering colum or Ididit with push button start and fob.

But before I start chasing my tail and drop a couple grand I figured that I should take car to a reputable chassis shop to access geometry. These guys in my opion are way more qualified then a standard alignment shop.

rbgray1 · #**105** (**permalink**) 10-14-2016, 04:44 PM

Redhawk,
My Flaming river column is gorgeous, I ordered a polished, tilt, with no key...going to install an ignition switch with a key on the dash when I rebuild the dash. Probably also going to install a momentary "starter" rubber coated button for the start function.

My column was approx 800 bucks with the drop bracket and aluminum swivel bearing plate for the firewall protrusion. FR also offers in column start button with proximity fob and electronic box controller, I'm just not sure how much this adds to the cost. The reason I didn't go that way is that their controller can operate 6 to 8 functions, power windows, door locks, auto start, etc and I just didn't need all that. Also, keep in mind the polished column is probably twice the cost of a painted unit.

I also am replacing the sector shaft and both U joints in the sector shaft with an FR unit once I start reassembling the car. It was interesting that a car with only 26k on the odometer had a fair amount of play in the joints on the sector shaft. Let me know if you need the part numbers that I ordered from FR. This is a custom length for them but still only took 3 days for them to build. FR is only 10mins from my home in the Cleveland area.

cycleguy55 · #**106** (**permalink**) 10-14-2016, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbgray1

Redhawk,
My Flaming river column is gorgeous, I ordered a polished, tilt, with no key...going to install an ignition switch with a key on the dash when I rebuild the dash. Probably also going to install a momentary "starter" rubber coated button for the start function.

Something like this?

rbgray1 · #**107** (**permalink**) 10-14-2016, 05:28 PM

Absolutely, but with a key

RedHawk · #**108** (**permalink**) 10-15-2016, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbgray1

Redhawk,
My Flaming river column is gorgeous, I ordered a polished, tilt, with no key...going to install an ignition switch with a key on the dash when I rebuild the dash. Probably also going to install a momentary "starter" rubber coated button for the start function.

My column was approx 800 bucks with the drop bracket and aluminum swivel bearing plate for the firewall protrusion. FR also offers in column start button with proximity fob and electronic box controller, I'm just not sure how much this adds to the cost. The reason I didn't go that way is that their controller can operate 6 to 8 functions, power windows, door locks, auto start, etc and I just didn't need all that. Also, keep in mind the polished column is probably twice the cost of a painted unit.

I also am replacing the sector shaft and both U joints in the sector shaft with an FR unit once I start reassembling the car. It was interesting that a car with only 26k on the odometer had a fair amount of play in the joints on the sector shaft. Let me know if you need the part numbers that I ordered from FR. This is a custom length for them but still only took 3 days for them to build. FR is only 10mins from my home in the Cleveland area.

Okay awesome! Yeah I'll take whatever part numbers you got. Brackets and all. Your on the money too the push button on the dash. Thats the way.

What rack and pinion are you using? My car has 8k mikes on it. It had 5k and I've put almost 3k since I bought it 5 months ago. Didnt buy this car to make it a garage queen.

Its kinda like during one of the Jerry Seinfeld episodes where he's going to rent the car and the car rental agent says after all the banter back and forth about holding the reservation, agent says "do you want Insurance on this car "and Jerry says "heck yeah cuz I'm going to beat the living snot out of this car." I wonder if thats why the ujoints and steering gear seem to be worn out? I mean I know I didnt do it, it was from PO but Im sure I have contiributed some what.

RedHawk · #**109** (**permalink**) 10-15-2016, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

Something like this?

Take your protein pills and put your helmet on
Ground Control to Major Tom (ten, nine, eight, seven, six)

Cycleguy where do you get a hold of one of those?!

cycleguy55 · #**110** (**permalink**) 10-16-2016, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Take your protein pills and put your helmet on
Ground Control to Major Tom (ten, nine, eight, seven, six)

Cycleguy where do you get a hold of one of those?!

Aliexpress - $27 direct from China (where most of the stuff we buy is made anyway). Shipping time is usually 3-6 weeks for other stuff I've ordered, but I have no personal experience with this panel.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-...8-37404745bb9e

stockstinks · #**111** (**permalink**) 08-09-2018, 01:38 PM

I know this is a old thread but this is a big help for me as I am putting coilovers in my custom roadsters cobra!
Todd

markantioch · #**112** (**permalink**) 09-04-2021, 09:06 PM

To remove the stock CR sway bay with the body mounted and the vent cone in place. Must the bar be cut, so it could slide on out?

Sycraft · #**113** (**permalink**) 09-05-2021, 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markantioch

To remove the stock CR sway bay with the body mounted and the vent cone in place. Must the bar be cut, so it could slide on out?

I had to disconnect the DS tie rod from the spindle and have the car on a lift, then I was able to remove the sway bar in 1 piece, I was almost ready to cut it in half... But with persistence it came out.

markantioch · #**114** (**permalink**) 09-11-2021, 05:19 PM

My nose cone shroud is tightly cut around the sway bar. Was yours a loose cut/fit, or was it cut to fit with a small gap around the bar? My intent is to get it out without having to cut the sway bar, or opening up a large gap around the sway bar on either end.

Sycraft · #**115** (**permalink**) 09-11-2021, 05:47 PM

Mine was cut around the bar, had enough room still in front of the radiator to snake it out

markantioch · #**116** (**permalink**) 09-11-2021, 07:08 PM

Thanks', I'll check mine to see what I have for room between the shroud and the radiator.

RonKahn · #**117** (**permalink**) 11-25-2021, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbgray1

Redhawk,

Thought you might like to see the result of the work on the rear suspension on the CR1.

Just need to re-install brake lines and new wilwood e-brake cables.

RBGray1, what model of QA1's and spring rates did you use for the rears? I purchased the DS602's with 250lb springs. Sound correct? Still building and have not installed and driven yet. That wont be for at least another 18 months, but doing the initial build and mock-up. Let me know what you used on your rear.

RonKahn · #**118** (**permalink**) 11-25-2021, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedHawk

Holy Smokes I can't believe a bunch of posts on this thread got erased. Multiply that by everyone else equals =Sucks a Big One. It looks like they rolled back to last backup.

I went to my clipboard file and low and behold I still had my last post, lol! Lets try this again. Someone needs to step up here. Looks like broken strings in db. Hell I dont know.
------------------
Alright so some progress reports and pics.

Brakes are sweet!
You can see the difference between the little iddy biddy wilwood calipers I had and the new ones going on.

One of the pics show where the two brackets will be welded for lower A-arms support

Taking DV's advise and ditching front sway bar. Looking into sleedway to fabricate a more suitable one. 7/8?

While in there I found a whole bunch of assembly errors which are too many to mention, but figured I'd mention a couple below.

A completely mismatched carb at 850 cfm. What??? Went with double pumper holly 570 cfm for 351w. On the phone with Holly tech we calculated size based on zip code, my stunning good looks, cat rangling skills and my
ability to talk my way out of 3 tickets when going over 100mph(dont belive me ask my wife). I live in Colorado so altitude was a factor. My car was drowning in gas.

Relocating fuel filter to gas tank which should help with vapor lock.

Relocated coil to front of block where factory typicaly mounts them. It was dangling on the inner fender area.

Remounted alternator. It was crunching coolant house so probably chocking off coolant.

Resealed gas filler cap.

All new fuel houses. Resucured loose wiring.

New Oil PCV to flow back via braided lines to engine and not spray all over the place like a sh&t faced frat boy on Saturday night.

Since the calipers were a close fit in the back wheel we grinded them to fit perfectly. Sending back to powder coater to make it look like nothing ever happened (Plug for Allstate) They do this with the Porsche race cars when calipres are tight.

Hope this post stays put.

RedHawk,
What model of the front QA1's did you use and what spring rate? I was considering these? Is this what you have on yours?
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Musta...cks,35903.html