Straight steering column

[CR67rep]

Hello everyone, I've come to the point of upgrading from the Chevette column and I am looking at the IDIDIT 30'' universal floor mount straight steering column p/n 1010300010. Has anyone used this column? I tried a search and it seemed most used the tilt columns. I have no need for tilt, I barely fit under the wheel as is. I plan on mounting it with a universal swivel firewall mount and a drop mount from the cowl bar, but unsure of how much drop I will need to mirror the current position of the current column. I'm assuming the current shaft between the rack and column will be reused, possibly just changing the column to shaft U-joint? I'm also considering a quick release steering wheel hub if anyone has any cost-efficient yet safe recommendations. Thanks in advance!

[rbgray1]

CR67,

I used a Flaming river with tilt and no-key for my upgrade. It was a custom 32" length.

Not sure how the ididit 30" would work, maybe someone on the forum can help if they have used the Ididit column.

I went with FR because they are a 10 min drive from my Cleveland area home. Also, the column is FAR superior to the POS Chevette column.

[Bill D]

I have the Ididit 32" straight steering column, part number 1011320051. I ended up having to have it shortened to 30", so the 30" unit would be the way to go.

[CR67rep]

Thanks for the info Bill D. Did you change the steering shaft and joints between the column and the rack? If so do you happen to remember the length of the shaft?

[Bill D]

I bought a double D shaft, cut it to the needed length, and then sourced the needed joints to match the R&P and the steering shaft. My setup is not standard FFR, but changed by me.

[rbgray1]

CR 67,

I also am changing my universals and shaft. There is a small amount of slop in the universals just from 26 years and 28K miles. It's cheap insurance if you want it to steer right and don't want to do again.

Also, you will need to weld a new bracket to the cowl bar crossovers. I did mine out of 3/16 CRS and installed a 2 inch drop (from FR). Absolutely rock solid and far superior to the original CR single bolt crappy set-up.

[CR67rep]

Thanks for the info. I'm swapping to an ignition switch on the dash from a 65 mustang, does anyone know what size hole to drill for perfect fitment?

[CR67rep]

Disregard the above post.....just finished mounting the switch, just have to wire it when new column shows up

[CR67rep]

Received my new 30'' column from IDIDIT, and it appears to be substantially shorter than the Chevette column that came out. Does anyone here happen to have a SBC car and know if you can run a single steering shaft with 2 U-joints without clearance problems?

[CR67rep]

Also if anyone has the info on what color wires from the Chevette harness need to go to the 64-66 Mustang dash ignition? Thanks!

[74proii]

you are going to have to do wire for wire conversion from both wiring diagrams. If you can also look up the diagrams under the instructions if you want to go that way.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

Originally Posted by CR67rep

Received my new 30'' column from IDIDIT, and it appears to be substantially shorter than the Chevette column that came out. Does anyone here happen to have a SBC car and know if you can run a single steering shaft with 2 U-joints without clearance problems?

CR67Rep, you may have gotten some bad advice from Bill_D... If you look, his car is a FFR (Factory Five) and would be much different than a CR...

[CR67rep]

Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake

CR67Rep, you may have gotten some bad advice from Bill_D... If you look, his car is a FFR (Factory Five) and would be much different than a CR...

Looking back through old posts, it looked like most everyone was using a 30". The longest universal shaft I have found is a 35" and even that is shorter than the original Chevette column. I'm not sure if people are running their shafts through their headers to connect to the rack and pinion or if most are using 2 shafts and 3 joints.... I guess worst case is I send this one back to Jegs and swap it out for a longer one.

[rbgray1]

CR67,

The Flaming River column I purchased is identical in length (32") to the original Chevette tilt column. It still uses the same length sector shaft as the original kit and routes outboard of the 351W sidepipes. I am still replacing the sector shaft with a new one from FR.

Wiring is straightforward and the same as factory GM to CR harness.

[CR67rep]

So I've been pretty busy working on other projects but I'm pushing on getting the wiring done on this mustang ignition switch. The GM plug(s) for he ignition has two wires that are 12V constant, the mustang switch only needs one 12v constant. Did those of you who did this swap just cap off the 2nd constant wire?

[CR67rep]

Does anyone have pictures of where they mounted their steering shaft support bearings/pillow blocks with a 3 u-joint set up? Got almost everything else done just need to get this steering system finished up and I'll be ready for final re-assembly

[RedHawk]

Originally Posted by CR67rep

Does anyone have pictures of where they mounted their steering shaft support bearings/pillow blocks with a 3 u-joint set up? Got almost everything else done just need to get this steering system finished up and I'll be ready for final re-assembly

Anyone? I am uograding too steering sucks!

[CR67rep]

Redhawk- I ended up managing to use only a 2 u-joint system. I got a Borgeson straight couple to go from 1'' DD to 3/4" DD and ran the 3/4 shaft out to about the same point as the Chevette column ended at and then made a lower shaft out of 2 u-joints that came out to be the same length as the original lower shaft. Haven't got to road test it yet because the rest of the car is ripped apart but it turns the wheels lock to lock perfectly in the garage.

[rbgray1]

Redhawk,

Exactly the same here. I went with a 32" unit from Flaming River (FR) and stuck with the 2 ujoint set up...No need for a pillow block support and the steering sector shaft stays completely outside my 351W headers.

[rbgray1]

Modifying the drop bracket behind the dash is more work but comes out far better than the factory crappy single bolt set-up.