Anyone know what brakes these are??

[MGM]

Curious if anyone can identify these?
Im slowly replacing/restoring everything on the car- built in the 90’s, and I have no clue what these brakes are from. Parts stores, ford and the wrecker weren’t able to help.
Thank you in advance!!!

[cobrabritt83]

looks like a big bore GM metric caliper and a rear disc rotor with an internal parking brake like what's found on a ford explorer

[joyridin']

As cobrabritt stated, the caliper is GM. Is the rotor solid or vented? The picture almost makes it look solid. I would guess a Ford Granada? Measuring the bolt pattern would help.

[MGM]

Bolt pattern is 5x4.5 or 5x 114.3
Rotors are vented and they’re on a spindle with a Ford stamp if that helps. I’ll get some better pictures right now. Thank you guys for the help!!!

[MGM]

Here’s a few more pics

[MGM]

ALSO- I forgot to mention- they’re front brakes

[MaSnaka]

The front brakes that came on my CRLTD were from pinto or mustang II. They were 9" and didn't work all that great. I have heard the upgrade was a ford Granada disc. I opted for the 11" Wilwoods.

John

[74proii]

While yes, Granada (11" rotors) are a popular only conversion for five lug for the MII. To me those look like a Granada rotor. I second the GM calipers, probably Camaro. Again a popular "cheap" upgrade because the GM ones normally have a larger piston during that time was about the only upgrade for early Mustang brakes. As a side note a vast majority of "parts guys/gals" at any parts store are rarely going to have a clue. Their job it to type in your info on what you know and provide options, not figure out random parts. They do not have that kind of expertise. To qualify that remark I am, and have been a sales part manager for 15 years. Gearhead a much longer time.

How to Make a Granada Spindle and Brake Swap Actually Work

Like this: "Brake kit for 1974 -78 Mustang II and 1974 – 80 Pinto/Bobcat spindles. This kit adapts larger 11″ Granada rotors and 1982 – 92 Camaro (or equivalent) calipers for a simple, effective, and inexpensive brake upgrade. Some 14″ wheels will clear the calipers. 15″ wheels will clear. The 1975 – 80 Granada rotors move each wheel out 1/4″ from stock Mustang II rotors"

https://welderseries.ecwid.com/Musta...tors-p50694270

[MGM]

74proii: It sounds like you’re the right person the talk to! I’m very grateful for the input. They are 11” rotors- just measured. I went to get a caliper slide pin is what started all of this- but I really wanted to sort this out so that I know which brake kit I need to order, that will work for me/On this setup.
I guess I’m not sure if I go with something different do I need to also replace the spindles?
I have 18” wheels, so clearance won’t be a problem. The current wheels actually stick out about 1/4” too much- probably my fault when ordering the custom wheels. So if these are Granada brakes, if I switch to an Mii setup, it will tuck the wheels in a bit? I’ll have to make sure I have the clearance on the inside. Worst case scenario I guess would be spacers to set them back out.

So any Mii brake kit should work? Like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...g-ii/year/1977

Or do I need new spindles as well?

Seriously- thank you guys for your help. I’m so close to being able to drive this car- FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER. I’m so excited.

Cheers
Michael

[Alfa02]

@MGM, your in good hands with 74Proii. John's still building his CR and knows all Ford products inside & out. In most times has a avg. of (What John?), half a dozen Mustangs hanging around Cheers TommyRot.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by MGM

74proii: It sounds like you’re the right person the talk to! I’m very grateful for the input. They are 11” rotors- just measured. I went to get a caliper slide pin is what started all of this- but I really wanted to sort this out so that I know which brake kit I need to order, that will work for me/On this setup.
I guess I’m not sure if I go with something different do I need to also replace the spindles?
I have 18” wheels, so clearance won’t be a problem. The current wheels actually stick out about 1/4” too much- probably my fault when ordering the custom wheels. So if these are Granada brakes, if I switch to an Mii setup, it will tuck the wheels in a bit? I’ll have to make sure I have the clearance on the inside. Worst case scenario I guess would be spacers to set them back out.

So any Mii brake kit should work? Like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...g-ii/year/1977

Or do I need new spindles as well?

Seriously- thank you guys for your help. I’m so close to being able to drive this car- FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER. I’m so excited.

Cheers
Michael

I think that Dynalite kit is the same one I have. Great stoppers.

Do yourself a favour and install speed bleeders at the same time. You'll need two pair for those Dynalites. Install them on the upper bleed screws. Leave the lower bleed screws alone. I'm pretty sure they're 1/4 in.-28 thread, but Summit can advise you on the correct size.

These s/b the ones: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-639540

[MGM]

Brian: speed bleeders??! That’s an amazing idea. I didn’t know those existed. I will order some for sure, thank you!

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by MGM

Brian: speed bleeders??! That’s an amazing idea. I didn’t know those existed. I will order some for sure, thank you!

I did a full replacement of front (Wilwood Dynalite) and rear brakes (MBM DBK9 kit, GM calipers with integrated parking brakes) on my car and installed speed bleeders all around. I'm now preaching the gospel of speed bleeders. Note: Referred to by some as 'quick bleeders'.

[74proii]

Speed bleeder have been around forever, even your local parts store will have usually four versions in their Dorman "Help" section. All they are is a check ball added to a regular bleed screw. They are great when as typical, no help around.Allows you to bleed all by your lonesome.

[74proii]

So MGM, there are a few decisions you need to make. Brakes are something you can easily throw 2K into, and not actually make your braking better. to answer your II vs Granada question, yes. Granada rotors add 1" each side to your track width, they also normally the lower control arms to be "clearanced" a bit, as they sit closer. I do not remember if you said you had stock or aftermarket control arms that you are using. The yellow ones in your first pics are OEM MII. The variety of aftermarket tubular control arms have issues like not stock Dodge (1970's) screw in ball joints, strut rod/no strut rod, narrower than stock or not and so forth. Assuming yo want to use the MII aftermarket 5 lug rotors, your caliper brackets and calipers no longer work. I do not remember off hand if you have Camaro or Monte Carlo calipers, I'd have to check, I seem to remember them being the same ones. GM never does anything real special, they just get you to pay more for it. There is no need to swap out spindles etc. Nowadays there are plenty of options like they showed you above. Those Willwood brakes are great, but really designed for cars over 2000 lbs or street driven mostly. You can argue their points good and bad all day. I would say most guys go that way because someone else did, your recommended by a shop due to "spirited" driving. The absolute biggest factors are heat and the compound of your pads. A bone stock MII with a 302 is a hare over 2800 lbs, the GM brakes are designed for similar brakes. That said the braking in almost any car always could be better. Keep in mind that changing nothing more than the brake pads can stop a vehicle 100ft shorter form 60mph. (checkout Performance Friction F150 braking test) Those are Carbon Metallic brakes. I can stop my full size LTD wagon in almost it's length, it weighs over 4000 lbs. Most Ceramic brakes in fact are not, long story. Bore size of your master cylinder as well as dot 3/dot 4 fluid also play a factor. I know it's a ton of info. If you want a off forum phone call let me know. As you have 18" wheels any "big brake" will work, but pricey. As I said plan for better, I always like overkill. If you change from your stock setup keep in mind your looking around $500 low end, as opposed to a set of awesome pads for under $70. If you go Wilwood or similar, you need spare pads on hand, as most places will not have them, most online retailers can be back ordered. You will also need different brake lines usually. Especially with most modern kits based around metric ABS based vehicles. They use bubble flare vs double flare unions. Easy fix with stainless My car will using 2013/14 Mustang GT 13.2" fronts with 11.6 rear 2004 Cobra rear brakes. Brackets alone are around $500, calipers another $400, rotors $200, brakes lines probably another $200, hubs another $200. I never, ever, ever, ever have any Generic Motor Company parts anywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[74proii]

Originally Posted by Alfa02

@MGM, your in good hands with 74Proii. John's still building his CR and knows all Ford products inside & out. In most times has a avg. of (What John?), half a dozen Mustangs hanging around Cheers TommyRot.

eeerrrhhhhh 7 Stangs, another eight in total Blue Oval, (one floats),oops 9 including CR

[Alfa02]

:

Originally Posted by 74proii

eeerrrhhhhh 7 Stangs, another eight in total Blue Oval, (one floats),oops 9 including CR

"I rest my case"

[MGM]

I just saw these messages! My apologies, I mustn’t have turned notifications on for this thread. Wonderful information- thank you very much! I think I will eventually go for the Mii spindles and a wildwood setup to make things easier- I like the idea of tucking the front wheels in a bit. My fault on offset when I ordered the wheels. I’ll get some photos posted. For the life of me I couldn’t get it to work but now I think I got it. And I agree- overkill is better than not having enough. Also pads can make a huge difference.
I’m very grateful you guys have chimes in here. I was getting quite worried the suspension wasn’t going to work. Oh-I sent back the adjustable UCA’s and ordered a different set of adjustable ones, but more in the shape of the stock Mii that should clear the spring perch.

Now just to wait. I guess I can sort out the coolant seeping problem from the lower intake. Apparently a bunch of people online have come across this when using TrickFlow Twisted wedge heads. Surprised the gaskets aren’t sealing- apparently grey RTVwill help. I’m not used to coating my intake gaskets in rtv. I’ll double check the manifold isn’t warped. It’s one of the only parts from the engine- besides the block that’s original.

[74proii]

Not Grey, its' water pump and thermostat rtv that is grey, two different things

[MGM]

You’ve probably come across this before- what would you recommend? I used the proper gaskets(I want to say 1250’s- I’d have to look). All bolts into coolant passages have thread sealant. I’m certain the gaskets didn’t slide down, and the intake went on nice and even. I checked the manifold to be true, but I’ll double check with a straight edge and feeler gauges when it’s off. I’m getting a coolant leak at the top between the lower intake and the head.
Again- thank you. If you’re ever on the island I owe you a beer!