Starting my CR build!

[Sycraft]

BMR, QA1 , Steeda , UPR are all good in my opinion

[rbgray1]

QA1 upper Adjustable!

[CFD2DC]

Thanks for the info. Went with BMR (they were in stock locally). Angles are perfect now! Having driveshaft built next week. Also going to build my own headers. I bought the Speedway DIY set. That will be next week as well!

[sunman]

Are you using the upper mount holes?
I’m bolting the rearend back in after painting and have never been clear on which holes to use
Great uppers, just put them on the parts list

[CFD2DC]

Originally Posted by sunman

Are you using the upper mount holes?
I’m bolting the rearend back in after painting and have never been clear on which holes to use
Great uppers, just put them on the parts list

I am using the upper holes. With those adjustable uppers I was able to get my driveshaft operating angles to .5 degrees for both. Should run smoothly.

[CFD2DC]

Well I tackled the headers today. I’m going under car exhaust. (Don’t hate me LOL) I bought the speedway DIY kit. Took some time but I’m happy with how they came out.

[74proii]

Did you try standard block huggers before you built those? Would've thought welding an extension piece to clear the frame might be easier.
Like:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small...iABEgLUJfD_BwE

[CFD2DC]

Originally Posted by 74proii

Did you try standard block huggers before you built those? Would've thought welding an extension piece to clear the frame might be easier.
Like:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small...iABEgLUJfD_BwE

I did. I had a set of huggers, std shorties, some iron logs and long tubes to try. The long tubes were definitely a no go. All the others dumped out too close to the frame and/or foot boxes to make work without a lot of reworking. I even looked at 96-98 explorer headers that they used for the GT40 heads. I could have really only used the drivers side. The pass is different. Pretty funky looking and I think they would have hit my valve covers LOL.

I really enjoy fabricating, so I thought I’d give it a go.

[CFD2DC]

Just finished the driver side. Very happy with the result.

[sunman]

That’s looking good. I’ve considered a fuel cell in trunk with mufflers where the gas tank was
What you got planed?
Your a arms look a lot more beefier than my RCC units
The arm hold down bolts look bigger maybe it’s only the ones like mine need alignment savers
I think some 5th graders have hacked the “Cobras are feminine” thread......
Party On
Wyatt

[Sycraft]

What should be the correct pinion angle and trans output angle?

[CFD2DC]

Originally Posted by sunman

That’s looking good. I’ve considered a fuel cell in trunk with mufflers where the gas tank was
What you got planed?
Your a arms look a lot more beefier than my RCC units
The arm hold down bolts look bigger maybe it’s only the ones like mine need alignment savers
I think some 5th graders have hacked the “Cobras are feminine” thread......
Party On
Wyatt

Hey Wyatt. I was thinking of looking for a low profile muffler and exit in front of the rear tires. A friend of mine is putting dr gas boom tubes on his Falcon. i want to hear that before Go that route. I got some 2.5” pipe today and am going to experiment a bit to see if that’s the best course. So not quite sure weather I’ll go all the way out the back or not yet. I did talk to a guy who had mufflers under the seat area and ran out the back under the rear axle. I’ll have to see how that looks.

The front suspension was in boxes with the car. Not sure who made it, but I agree it’s beefy.

[CFD2DC]

Originally Posted by Sycraft

What should be the correct pinion angle and trans output angle?

My trans angle is 3.5 degrees down, Driveshaft is 3 degrees down and pinion is 2.5 degrees down. For 4 link rears the pinion angle should be a degree less to account for axle wrap under power.

[CFD2DC]

I completed the exhaust except for the turnouts. I decided to exit in front of the tires. Need to set the body on to se where to terminate them. I also fired the engine for the first time. It sounded great!

[Sycraft]

looks great, make sure you can mount seats and add a heatshield to keep cool. your seats will be right on the mufflers. check floor clearance too, dont want your feet and carpet melting

[CFD2DC]

Originally Posted by Sycraft

looks great, make sure you can mount seats and add a heatshield to keep cool. your seats will be right on the mufflers. check floor clearance too, dont want your feet and carpet melting

Thanks, I’m pleased with how it came out. Feet melting would be bad LOL…I left myself plenty of room underneath for heat shielding the entire exhaust. I’m also going to shield the front of the foot boxes and most likely will wrap the headers with the DEI titanium wrap. The interior will get an under carpet treatment too. I think I should be able to keep her cool for the most part.

[Roylerumble]

lizardskin might be a good product to look at to spray the underside of the car.

[CFD2DC]

I’ve been doing some research into heat shielding products. I fabricated a shield for the front of the passenger toe box. It’s aluminum with air space and heat shielding material inside. I’m going with Heatshield Products Lava mat for the rest of the under car shielding. I looked at Lizard skin. It looks like good stuff. By the time I bought the gun to shoot it and the product, it was somewhat pricey. The Lava Mat is not cheap either but, it’s peel and stick. Easy. I got the headers and pipes wrapped. Just waiting on the mat.

[CFD2DC]

I was trying to decide what to do with the firewall. Do I paint it, leave it in the gel coat? I looked around and finally decided on aluminum cladding. I just really like the look. I’m not going with the hood popper thing, so that’s not going to be an issue. Have to finish a few more things but it’s coming along.

[Chicagowil]

I like the clean look of the firewall! Will consider for my CR as well.

Thom