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05-02-2002, 12:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sauk Centre,
MN
Cobra Make, Engine: Owner, Classic Roadsters II
Posts: 1,347
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Not Ranked
There is a headlight relay. It's the one you need to add to the harness when assembling the wiring.
Don
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05-02-2002, 05:13 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
PS..
Dons right you add it to the cluster, but it is supplied in the kit wiring package!
DV
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05-02-2002, 05:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Redwood Shores,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster/428CJ "The Stretch Limo of Cobras"
Posts: 267
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Not Ranked
Is this an additional relay to the existing 4 (cluster, 4 in a row) under the dash?
Thanks
__________________
A person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person. (This is very important. Pay attention. It never fails.)
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05-02-2002, 06:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
No, it is one of the relays in the 4 cluster. But you might want to get out your voltmeter and track down where the voltage changes from 10 1/2 to 12. There is a resistance in the circuit that is not supposed to be there. Bad relay contact, bad wire crimp, bad spade lug connection, corroded fuse connection, whatever, and fix it. Resistance also causes heat and the connection could behave like a fusable link under load. POWF!
Or get your high amperage devices out of that mess, and wire them separately through circuit breakers and relays. Relays need to be replaced periodically, so install them somewhere accessable.
Had to do a substantial amount of rewiring. From the firewall foreward, under the dash, and an additional harness to the rear.
Firewall included fan & fan controls, Delco alternator, lights power through separate relays, MSD distributor, box & coil, windshield washer.
Since I used an Ididit column, ignition, lights, wipers/washers were moved to dash. Ididit uses its' own dimmer switch that had to be wired in. Also included heater blower, fan override, rear window defroster (for hardtop), sterio, lighter, and some dash lighting so I could see all this stuff while driving. Speedo uses electric sender that had to be wired. Also installed remote door openers so I could click a button on key ring and door would open. Have about 8 pages of schematics for as-builts.
Rear harness included amp in trunk, rear window defroster, courtesy lights (in hardtop), and power antenna.
Not finished yet. Installed Lucas wiper gearboxes upside down. Works OK, but wipers parked UP instead. Then, the wiper park switch broke. Replacement park switch not available. Gotta replace the whole motor. Will install limit switch and relay on cable end to park wipers. Wonderful Lucas.
Tip on Lucas signal & tail lamps. The little brass tits that hold the lens screws in... Put a dab of wheel bearing grease on them to keep them from from corroding, and causing the steel lamp housing to rust prematurely. The lamp ground is crimped, and will eventually corrode and fail. Solder, grease, and heat shrink this connection.
Last edited by Jack21; 05-02-2002 at 06:35 PM..
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05-02-2002, 06:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Redwood Shores,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster/428CJ "The Stretch Limo of Cobras"
Posts: 267
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Not Ranked
Thanks, I'll check this out.
__________________
A person who is nice to you, but rude to the waiter, is not a nice person. (This is very important. Pay attention. It never fails.)
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06-02-2002, 10:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Leamington,
Ont
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster with 427 center oiler
Posts: 443
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Not Ranked
Dim headlights on CR
Petek
Hi Petek. Just got around to doing what you suggested concerning the high beam indicator light being on all the time. I switch the low beam connector and ground connectors. Now the high beam indicator comes on when it is supposed to. The headlights are working correctly now, except they are still dim.
I tested the voltage at the bulb. I have 10.5 volts on the low and high beams when they are on. While the headlights were on, I ran a 14 guage wire directly to the battery and connected it to the low voltage headlight terminal in parallel with the original connector and the lights went considerably brighter. I guess that means I have a voltage drop. I will have to test the voltage on the hot side of the relay and ,then the switched side, to see if there is a drop there. If there isn't, then I assume the wire from the relay to the headlights is too small.
Thanks for all your help. You seem to know alot about electronics etc. Are you employed in that field?
I have been following your built site regularly. I hope your car is painted and ready for the DVSF. I would love to see it.
Hope to see you on the DVSP weekend. Thanks again.
Paul
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