Ford Engine Harness Install ?'s

[ronzara]

I am installing the CR Ford Engine Harness,... I have found many things are not used. I am using the Stewart Warner Cobra Gauge set, which are mechanical gauges. Only Fuel gauge uses a sender as far as I know.

The Engine is a 1973 351W, It has 4-pole Alternator:

The engine has NO ECM unit.

Distributor has 1 wire coming out of it. It runs to the COIL NEG (-) . I am assuming I don't need an ECM unit. Is this right ? If so, what do I do with wires 185, 186, 187 ??

I have connected the COIL POS (+) to Harness wire 138. Manual Says to attach #132 toCOIL NEG (-), Should I splice this in with the wire from the Distributor ?

My Voltage Regulator has 4 prongs:

F - I have attached #115

S - I have attached #119

A - didn't know about this one, Is this #109 ?

I- didn't know about this one, Is it #180?


110 is connected to BAT side of circuit Breaker, 111 & 112 to the AUX side of the same breaker.

WHAT ATTACHES THE TO OPPOSITE SIDES OF THESE BREAKERS ?

Do I need a Ballast resistor? If so, Any suggestions on which one?

Thanks for all your assistance guys. With any luck, I'll still have a few hairs left on my head when I get this car on the road! : )
RZ

[dscott]

RZ, I'm assuming you are running a points distributor since you only have one wire. This wire will hook to the neg. side of the coil with wire # 132.
Wire #128 hooks to the pos. side of the coil. You will need to hook up a ballast resistor. Wire #138 and #128 go to the ballast. Use a standard Ford ballast from any year Ford with points.
The alternator wires are correct as you have them.
There are only three wires to the breaker. #110 is power in #111 and #112 are power out.

The other wires 185,186,187 are for the electronic ignition. You can tape, cut, or do whatever you want with them.
Don

[ronzara]

Don,

So, you are saying to attach the #132 wire AND the distributor wire to the Neg on the Coil ?
Does the TACH wire usally connect to the Coil NEG ?

Does it matter which side of the Ballast #138 and #128 go to ?

my Fan has 3 wires ---- Ground and 2 Hot. I am assuming 1 is a direct current line 1 is a thermostat controled line. Does this sound right (One is RED and One is ORANGE). How could I find out which is which?

The main breaker has 2 small boxes, Each with 2 lugs. #110 is attached to the BAT side and 111 & 112 are connected to the AUX side. .... Is my battery or starter or anything else connected to the 2 empty lugs?

THanks.
I am getting there. One wire at a time.
RZ

[dscott]

RZ, Yes the #132 does wire to the coil with the dist wire. That is proper hookup for the tach. Doesn't matter which side of the ballast the wires go to, it's just a big resistor.

What type and brand of fan do you have? I haven't seen one with 3 wires.

The breaker supplies main power to the fuse block so no other wires hook to this. The starter and solenoid draw power direct from the battery. The fuse block supplies power to the control wire on the solenoid. The Breaker is actually 2 30 amp breakers tied together to supply a 60 amp circuit.
Don

[ronzara]

Don,

My Voltage Regulator has 4 prongs:

F - I have attached #115

S - I have attached #119

A - didn't know about this one, Is this #109 ?

I- didn't know about this one, Is it #180?


So, once everything is connected,.... the Positive side of the Battery connects to the the POS side of the starter solinoid, The I come OUT of the solinoid to the starter ????

The NEG side of the Battery connects to the engine Block?
Anything else about the battery hook-up I need to know?

[dscott]

Yes that is correct for the regulator. The battery hookup is also correct. You will also need to run a ground strap from the engine to the frame for proper grounding.
Don

[ronzara]

Thanks Don!!
RZ

[ronzara]

Don,
Is there a safe way to test the wiring job? I am pretty sure I have everything right, but instead of just throwing the battery on it, I thought I'd ask.

Also, I know you're not a fan of probe type sensors, but thats whats on my SW gauges....

Where the does the probe type sensor on a mechanical OIL TEMP gauge fit on a 351W ?

I know the WATER probe goes in to the top of the Intake. But, when I put the sensor in, it threads perfectly into the hole, but it doesn't bottom out. The top of the piece (the hex end) looks like its trying go below the surface of the intake... seems like it's not right... Do you think I might be missing an adapter, maybe a washer, or little gasket........ something?

Thanks,
RZ

[dscott]

RZ, The senders for the water and oil should be a tapered pipe thread. They won't bottom out because of the taper. Use some teflon tape on them and screw them in until they are tight. If you try and overtighten on an aluminum manifold you can crack it. The oil sender goes just above the fuel pump on a 351w. It takes 1/4 pipe thread, I usually buy a 3" pipe to bring the sender out beyond the pump. I'm sure you will need to adapt to the oil sender.

PS, I'm not opposed to mechanical guages at all. You must be thinking of someone else. Mechanical gauges give more accurate readings than electrical.
Don

[ronzara]

Don,
Right behind the fuel pump is where I have my OIL PRESSURE line coming out. Where would the OIL TEMP probe go?

Any thing you recommend on testing the wiring, or do you just plug 'em in and cross your fingers ?
RZ

[dscott]

RZ, Sorry, I read your note to fast and missed the oil TEMP! There isn't a specific place for the temp sender. Usually you need to cut a hole in the pan and weld in a bung to fit the sender. I don't know of any other spot on the windsor.

I usually put in all the fuses and both flashers, turn on the key and test everything. If there is a problem in a circuit it should pop the fuse.
Don

[Jack21]

RZ, most aftermarket oil pans have an extra bung for an Oil Temp sender.

Depending on how your fan is wired, you may need to drill and tap an additional pipe thread in the water crossover to accomodate water temp gauge sender, and fan temp sender.

You can also install one fuse at a time to test one circuit at a time. Have your VOM and some jumpers handy just in case you have to check something out.

[ronzara]

Well, I hooked up the Battery, Seems like every thing is holding together... didn't hear any pops, see any sparks or smell any wires cooking... I guess thats good news...
Bad News is, I 've got fan motor when key is on, (So Iam getting juice) but when I hit the starter.... nothing.

Here's my config:
GM column ... Dash mounted ignition switch.
I have these wires connected to the ignition switch:

111 to BAT
120 to IGN
122 to ACC
121 to ST

I think my problem my be there are several wires left in the pigtail that are not attached to anything:
126, another 121 >> (both of these have FEMALE Slide in connecters,
and #125 >>>> manual says 126 and 121 have to do with the solenoid, but I don't know what to do with them (If anything).


On my Solenoid this this the wiring:
109, 110 and BAT POS on the left lug
126 to the "S"
189 to the "I"
and the STARTER WIRE coming out of the Right side Lug....

Is it possible the Power goes in the RIGHT side of the Solenoid??

HELP!!!! I AM SOOOOO CLOSE!!
RZ

[Snake]

Hey ronzara! The old #126 and #121....Ya...been there and done that....if they's wires aren't conected...you will get no jucie to the the starter...I've got mine hooked up to an ON, OFF switch....when it's in the On position...I get power to the starter...but when it's in the OFF position...I get nothing...I use mine as a secret kill switch...and have it placed were no one else knows where it is...if you don't have a switch right now...you can just disconnect the battery...first...then attach them together...and re-attach the battery...and try the key...it should work.
Snake.

[dscott]

RZ, Jack is right about the wires 121 and 126. There is a 4 way plug that comes off the engine side of the harness. It has 121 and 126 which is for the neutral safety switch. The other 2 wires are for the backup light switch. There are also 121 and 126 under the dash for a clutch switch instead of the trans neutral safety. If you are'nt using either you can jumper 121 and 126 to get power to the solenoid.

You need to run wire 125 to the ign. terminal on the switch. That terminal will have both 120 and 125.

Everything else is correct.

Don

[ronzara]

OK Guys,
Still NOTHING. I connected 121 and 126 from under the dash together.
I am using a lokar auto shifter and have connected the trans harness wires to each of the 2 poles on the neutral safty switch. I have don't done anything with the back up light wires (nothing to attach them to and also will not be using them. Do they need to be connected to anything?

I checked power with my meter at the ignition switch, seems to be sending current through when I hit the key, I checked the solenoid ..... nothing.

The red wire on the ignition switch seems to be getting pretty hot.. is this normal?

I have the BATTERY and ACC wires attached to the left side of the solenoid (Silver Lug) and the starter out attached to the right side (Copper Lug). Thought maybe these are backwards ????
I am stumped....
RZ

[dscott]

RZ, are you looking at the solenoid from the top of the car and is it mounted in the factory location? If it is then you have the wires backwards. The battery terminal is on the right and the starter is on the left. No the red wire on the switch should not get hot but this may be related to the solenoid hookup.
Don

I keep forgeting this is an EM car! As you look at the solenoid face on, the battery wire is on the left.

You may need to try the shift selector in something other than park or neutral. The switch may need to be adjusted for proper operation. Otherwise jump the 2 wires for a test.

[ronzara]

OK,
With the assistance of Jim Downard. We found the problem. Defective Solenoid.... Brand new part that was BAD. Car has Cranked up. Thanks Everyone.
I'm sure I'll have a few more ???'s, but for now. HEEE YAWW~

RZ