Stop/Tail/Parking light configuration

ronzara · #1 (**permalink**) 09-05-2002, 01:02 PM

Hey Guys,
It's me again. I am about to install the 6 stop/tail/parking lights.
I have 2 single filament 691's and 4 twin filament 692's.

2 lenses are amber which I want to use in the front.
What is the configuration as far as which lamp goes where???
Thanks!
RZ

ronzara · #2 (**permalink**) 09-05-2002, 03:13 PM

I put a twin filament in the front, A single in the top rears and a double on the bottom rears.

Looks like I have parking lights and I have tail lights.
But I have NO TURN SIGNALS,... Hazzard flashers work though.
I have no brake light switch installed yet.
Do I need the Stop light switch hooked up for my the turn signals work, or Do I have a problem somewhere???

I am using a CR wiring harness.

RZ

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 09-05-2002, 05:34 PM

Brake lights are independent from turns.

If you're using CR fusebox, you have two flashers, one for the turn signals, and one for the emergency flashers.

According to CR assm manual, Wire #163 takes power from the flasher out, and feeds it to the steering column turn switch.

#167 steering column to right front turn
#168 steering column to left front turn
#169 steering column to left rear turn
#170 steering column to right rear turn

I didn't use a Chevette steering column, and the CR steering column connecter kept coming loose from the fusebox. Had to re-wire that one.

Do you have schematics of the CR chassis wiring?

ronzara · #4 (**permalink**) 09-05-2002, 06:09 PM

Jack,

Ok,.. I only have 1 flasher unit installed,... Didn't see a provision for a 2nd,... dughhhhhh!! >> where doe the 2nd unit plug in??

Also, The only 20 fuse in the panel (I believe this is part of the ignition system) is getting very HOT,... this can't be normal. Hot to the point of discoloring, but not popping. What could be causing this??? It gets hot while the engine is running. I havn't checked it with just the ignition on,... I know I have the engine fan running when the key is ON. Think that could be it??
Thanks
RZ

OhBuoy · #5 (**permalink**) 09-06-2002, 06:24 AM

Ron,

Do you have good grounds? A poor ground would restrict the flow of electricity, and could cause the fuse to get hot. Also, is the fan run through the 20 amp fuse? What else runs through it? It is quite possible that you are approaching the limit of that fuse. Might not be the fan though, because fans typically put a strong load on the fuse in the beginning and then taper off a little from what I remember.

How are you configuring your lights? I am going to be running the 4 seperate rear lights and would like a suggestion on how to do it. I am building a B&B, so not everything will apply exactly.

As it stands, I have a wire for each of the turn signals going to the back, which also carries the brake lights on the same filament. Then there is a seperate wire for the tail lights. I have heard some people talk about using a trailer converter, but I do not know what the ultimate function of each bulb ends up being.

Tom

ronzara · #6 (**permalink**) 09-06-2002, 11:06 AM

Tom,
I belive the ignition also runs through this fuse, so, when the key is the "ON" position, the fan is running. I had a problem with this fuse before when the POS battey wire got against the header, melted through and shorted. NOT PRETTY! But it was getting hot before that happened, so I don't believe that caused any permanent damage .... can say the fuse faired too well though.

I believe my grounds are all good. I have also noticed some wires getting pretty warm, too. Particularly the HOT wire to the Ignition switch.

I am configuring my lights as follows:
FRONT, 2 AMBER TWIN FILAMENT 692's. (Parking, and TURN)
TOP REAR, 2 RED SINGLE FILAMENT 692's (TURN ONLY)
BOTTOM REAR, 2 RED TWIN FILAMENT 692's (Parking/Tail and Stop)

This seems like the only obvious way, when I looked closely at the CR wiring harness schematics. Let me know if you find out differently.

RZ

Jack21 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-06-2002, 04:42 PM

Lower right is e-flasher. Lower left is signal flasher. Assuming CR fusebox. Look for two tabs on a 90 deg angle. That's where the signal flasher plugs in. Use VOM and see if one has signal light power.

Hot fuse with fan on? Fan fuse power should go to fan relay only. Fan power should go from battery, through relay, to fan, and should have its own circuit breaker.

ronzara · #8 (**permalink**) 09-07-2002, 07:16 PM

OK.
I got the flashers working. I can get brake lights but touching # 165 ans # 114 (I think it is) together. BUT,.. I connected the #165 and # 114 (I think it is.... Stop light POWER) to each of the 2 wires on the switch, and I get nothing. This is a hydralic switch installed in the Brake line, Should work,.. I have good brake pedal. >> only thing I can figure it the switch is defective??????

Also went out on 1st run tonight. All went well in the day light, but coming home Had Headlights, and tail lights, But Popped turn signal fuse and then I tried the Hazzards and popped the fuse,... I may have a wire touching gound in the Turn bulb circuit,... What do you think.

Also the Fan fuse which was 20 Amp, I put a 25 in the slot. It is still getting hot, but not melting as before. ???

BUT, all that aside, the car ran great and was a lot of fun. Got a lot of looks too!

Thanks for all your help!
RZ

John Wais · #9 (**permalink**) 09-07-2002, 11:54 PM

Make the top tow rear reds DUAL filaments and tie the second filament to the stop so all 4 act as brakes. You cannot believe how hard it is to see our stop lights on some Cobras. I have been behind other Cobras on some of our cruises and could not see their lights expecially in bright sun.
John W.

Jack21 · #10 (**permalink**) 09-08-2002, 07:06 PM

Think I mentioned this before, but Ron Francis Wire Works (wire-works.com) has Bright Lites replacement stop/turn/tail/park bulbs that are substantially brighter than standard bulbs we use in these dinky Lucas lights. Substantial difference in visibility of Cobra at night.