Hey...Don Scott!!

coosawjack · #1 (**permalink**) 10-17-2002, 05:10 AM

Hey Don,

Is there a need to lubricate the clutch cable in my CR Cobra?? I put the equivalent of Ford's SVO clutch in and the effort is noticably more than stock!!

Also is there a hydraulic kit for these cars and how hard would it be to install.....It is pretty tight down in the foot box!!

Thanks,
Jack

PS: Is Pete Johnson still at CR??? If so will you email me his new address???

dscott · #2 (**permalink**) 10-17-2002, 08:06 AM

Jack, I don't know of any way to lubricate the cable. I suppose you could take it out and spray WD40 in it. You can use a hydraulic setup but there isn't a specific kit for the Classic. You need to buy the slave and master and start fabricating your brackets. It will work with the pedal set. I usually mount the master on the firewall, run the rod to the pedal arm. You will need to fabricate a mount for the bellhousing slave.
Don

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 10-19-2002, 12:35 PM

Thought I'd chime in here. The cable (BBK) I'm using is teflon against teflon. It doesn't get any more slippery than that. If yours needs lube, try a moly or teflon gun lube.

The fulcrum ball, and throwout bearing sleeve need a little moly grease. The trans sleeve should be steel, not aluminum, and the throwout bearing needs to slide smoothly on it.

If all this still doesn't get the clutch pedal effort down where you want it, try my late Musang aftermarket BBK clutch cable and quadrant conversion.

Cable pull is the most trouble free system going. You'll hate yourself if you try putting in a hydraulic system.

coosawjack · #4 (**permalink**) 10-28-2002, 11:09 AM

Thanks Jack21.....

I don't know exactly what clutch cable I have?? Pete Johnson at Classic gave me a NAPA # 615-1008 and it ain't close!! NAPA book showed one that looked close #615-1060 but I'm not ordering it until I find out for sure. I emailed Don Scott to see if he can help??

It appears that the shield on the cable will just slip off and from there I can see what to do...lube or get a new one.

Thanks,
Jack

coosawjack · #5 (**permalink**) 10-29-2002, 04:36 AM

Well..........

Lubing the cable is not a problem. Take it loose from the clutch arm, unbolt it from the wheel well and pull it upward. Now you can run heavy oil down it toward the firewall....It really helped a lot!!!

But.....The real problem showed up almost 5 miles into a drive!! Clutch quit disengaging and drive back home was not much fun!!! I (we) think it is a diskombubilated (sp?) pressure plate....no matter how much adjustment I do it will not completely disengage!!?? About a month ago I found a piece of metal in the dust cover over the clutch adjuster...It looked like a small metal plug of sorts but now I guess it was a rivet that got expelled??

I am getting another clutch assembly this week and hopefully have answers this weekend.

Other ideas???

Stay tuned,
Jack

Art Burtt · #6 (**permalink**) 01-11-2003, 08:41 AM

Don,
I found out I have a Petronics system in distributor.Last page of
MSD instruction book solved the problem.Wish I had side pipes so I could fire this sucker up

Art

Jack21 · #7 (**permalink**) 01-11-2003, 09:06 AM

Coosawjack,

Send me an e-mail, (jwalsh21@ix.netcom.com) and I'll return photos of BBK late Mustang clutch cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster conversion. 12,000 miles of trouble free service to date.

dscott · #8 (**permalink**) 01-11-2003, 09:35 AM

Art, That's what I thought. The MSD should enhance that system. Sidepipes? That's another story. I was at the factory yesterday and no sidepipes anywhere. I'm going to call the supplier on Monday to see what's going on. I'll let you know.
Don

Jack21 · #9 (**permalink**) 01-11-2003, 10:47 AM

Don,

If you are in contact with the supplier of headers and sidepipes supplied to CR, could you buy direct, and sell them? Would you want to?

And....would it be possible for this supplier to furnish a j-pipe and turnout kit that would allow you, or us, to install our own mufflers?

Or...Specify which muffler is to be installed in the sidepipe?

Kills ya to spend that much on factory sidepipes, only to have to cut out a new muffler that sucks, to install another new muffler that works. Factory pipes, muffler conversion, and ceramic coating; have about $1k in total cost for sidepipes not including heatshields.

Is Pete Johnson still working there?

tabester · #10 (**permalink**) 01-11-2003, 04:22 PM

I heard that they have made improvements to the pipes that will be delivered. Supposed to be a little quieter and not choke down the engine as much. This came straight from CR when I picked up my kit in NOV 02

dscott · #11 (**permalink**) 01-12-2003, 11:29 AM

Yes Pete does still work there and yes I could get the sidepipes and yes we probably could have the pipes made so the muffler is removable. I could sell them but the new sidepipes do have a much less restrictive muffler in them. Actually it's a full flow through with the small louvers in it. Shouldn't be a need to change them. For the person that wants to change what they have now it would be an option. I don't have any pricing yet.
Don