Keeping cool

[brandonF]

Also try this site http://www.spal-usa.com/html/dampframe.htm
Click download next to the 30100846 part number and it will show you the tech specs for this fan. It will also show that pn#30100846 is the actual part number and that 2va06-ap6-37a is the type of fan. It will also give you dimensions for the unit and a cfm rating. every thing you should need to tell you if it will fit.

Just trying to help you out, and help you save some money!!

[Double Venom]

I have one word to add to this: SPAL, short, simple and it works.

I had so much trouble with the Black Magic Fans, wouldn't cool properly, wouldn't come on at pre set temps, and drawing way to much juice for their size, I replaced three years worth of Cobra builds for free.

Spal AND the relay kit. Problem solved.

DV -- sorry for the delay here, once the Fling is done, and a weeks worth of sleep, I'll be baaaack!

It's FLING WEEK!

[cobra427mnsi]

I got the dual Spal fans and the 2 core Griffin rad from DScott last summer. Everything works great now. Had alot of cooling problems with the Black Magic fan and the brass rad supplied by CR. I was on my second Black Magic when I made the switch to Spal. The first Black Magic fell apart believe it or not. The permanent magnets in the motor "unglued" from the housing and attached themselves to the armature. Needless to say it didn't work too well after that. I used a second Black Magic because everything was set up for it and I was too Lazy to redo everything. Finally got too exasperated with the whole over heating thing and made the change.

Paul
PS the Griffen rad was a little larger so I had to rework the mounting brackets supplied by CR.

[John Wais]

Got my fan today
Going to order the Griffen tomorrow so hopefully I will be ready to install in a couple of weeks.
Sure looks like it is a tight fit side to side!!

John W.

[john standish]

I as well have tried every fan, and have a pile of almost new fans to prove it!! My car was running the same as yours, once I stopped the temperature would continue to climb to over 200 degrees. I even tried having a 14 inch pusher and a 15 inch Black Magic as a puller, which had no effect. I have an old Contemporary Kit with a 427 and a HOWE aluminum radiator. The only solution I found that worked was installing a Vintage Air 18 inch Monster fan with one of there universal shrouds. They have several shrouds to pick for this fan, even one that fit my 22 inch by 20 inch radiator core. Now when I turn on the fan switch the temperature goes backwards. This is something I could never do with the single 16 inch fans. The dual fans were also to wide for my core, so that wasn't even an option. The only negative thing about this 18" Monster fan, is it needs like 5 1/2" of room!!!

[Jack21]

Sounds like you went through with cooling systems like what I went through with front suspensions and brakes.

Since Cobras are so notorious for running hot, or overheating, I paid special attention to the cooling system.

The Griffin aluminum radiator is specially made by Griffin for CR and is (was) only available from CR. By know, Don and/or DV should have them. Rad also comes with new rad/frame/hood brackets.

Can use 180 deg thermostat year round. It's a Honeywell high flow unit available from Summit. There are several aluminum high volume water pumps available from Edelbrock, Wyand, Stewarts (Summit again). I used the Edelbrock. And it needed clearancing for the SFI front crank balancer, and PS pump. Rebuilt auto supply store water pump won't cut it with a Cobra.

Using March pulley set. It does look pretty, but mostly you take it out of the box, bolt it onto the motor and it fits, and works. A rareity with Cobra builds! What most don't know unless speaking with March sales/tech support, is that two pulley ratios are available; a HiPo ratio, and a Street Rod ratio. The Street Rod ratio uses a smaller diameter water pump pulley which spins the water pump a little faster at street, and stuck-in-traffic RPM.

For a lower radiator hose, I used 3 ea., 1 3/4" hose elbows, a 4", and a 11" piece of 1 3/4" stainless exhaust tubing.

As built with 180 deg thermostat and fan sender, at highway cruise, the water temp climbs to 180 and stabilizes, the fan never comes on. Around town, the temp climbs to 205 when the fan turns on, cools to 180 where the fan turns off, and continues to cycle. A fan override switch on the dash which leaves the fan on regardless of coolant temperature adds an extra margin of safety (more for the drivers benefit, than the engine).

[Robert T. Faust]

The Griffin aluminum radiator is specially made by Griffin for CR and is (was) only available from CR. By know, Don and/or DV should have them. Rad also comes with new rad/frame/hood brackets.
Do you have any pictures of this setup? I had my existing CR radiator (old copper one) rebuilt awhile back, changed the fan over to a Vintage air (without a schroud) 18 inch, but it still gets up to 210+ sometimes in traffic. Would definately like to upgrade and get rid of the heating problem.
Bob Faust

[john standish]

I don't have any pictures but could take one if you would like. There are 4 shrouds for this fan, which I feel was the biggest help in my cooling problems.(I had tried a 18" perma cool without shroud with no results) They have 2 different 27" wide by 19" high shrouds, a 22" by 20" (one I used ,covers almost the entire core) and a 27 1/2" by 19". Hope one of these could fit, they cost around $85.

[Robert T. Faust]

Thanks John, I'll look into the shrouds later this week. If that doesn't work then it's time for a call to Don about a radiator.
Bob