Keeping cool

[jwinkler]

Hi again -

The new motor is doing well, but the new parts are making it run hot when sitting still. I got stuck in traffic yesterday, and the gauge got all the way to 220 and stayed there for the ~5 minutes I was stuck in stop-and-go traffic. Once I was moving again (50+ mph), it dropped down to 200 pretty quickly, but I pulled into our neighborhood before it got down to 180.

This seems to indicate that the fan is overmatched right now. What I've got is a square electric puller fan centered on the radiator. Is there a better setup, like two smaller fans, or a push/pull setup? If Don Scott or DV has pictures, that would be great!

Thanks,

JLW

[dscott]

jwinkler, The only fan I've found that will cool the Cobra at low speed is the Spal. There are 2 different fans I use depending on horsepower. Up to 350 horsepower I use the Spal 16" puller # VA18-AP6-41MA. Above this I use the Spal dual 11" #2VA06-AP6-37A.
With the dual 11" you must use a Griffin Radiator #125222. The Dual Fan won't work with the stock Classic Roadsters radiator because it's too wide. I have tried just about every other fan on the market and they won't cool at idle. Maybe DV or someone else has experience with other fans that will work.
Don

[jwinkler]

Don -

Thanks for the reply. Summit online shows the Griffin radiator to be a 26"x19" Chevy 'race' radiator. Is this right? How does this compare with the stock CR radiator (is it an easy swap)?

Thanks again,

JLW

[Double Venom]

Ditto Don's comments - right on!
DV

[BJGreen]

I just installed a Chev Griffin radiator from Jegs ($329). It is the 26 x 19 version with double row 1 1/4 " tubes. I didn't have the slightest idea what I was doing and finished in about 4 hours.

Since it has a filler neck, I used an 18 pound cap at the radiator and a 13 pound cap at the overflow tank. I used the corrigated copper hoses from CoolFlex.

It looks like I got about a 20 degree temp drop over the CR radiator.

[dscott]

The Griffin is a little wider than the Classic radiator. It does have the cap on top so you can run the 2 caps like BJgreen or have the hole filled on the Griffin. It also does not have a drain but one can be added. It will reduce your engine temp when used with the Spal duall 11" fan.
Don

[jwinkler]

(Anybody else a fan of the Jackie Chan cartoon?)

I may be in a position soon to upgrade my radiator, and dug up this thread. Heading out to Summit, I see that in the same 'circle track radiator' section, there's a part 126222 that has Ford inlet and outlet (top right, bottom left). Any reason this wouldn't work in place of the previously recommended 125222? It would definitely make hose routing easier.

When I do this, I know Don recommended a dual fan set up - can I get away with reusing the one I've got (single black magic, I think)? I'm hoping I'll realize a nice difference just by changing radiators.

Finally, the Griffin radiator discussed here has 1" tubing - BJGreen mentions going with a different Griffin with 1-1/4" tubing. With an 11:1 .060-over 351W, is the 1" tubing adequate, or is it worth the extra 33% price increase for the extra flow?

Thanks once again,

JLW

[dscott]

jwinkler, The reason for the chevy outlets on the radiator is for rack clearance. With the lower on the drivers side it won't clear the rack. I think the major problem with your cooling is the fan more than the radiator, at low speeds you just arn't moving the air through the radiator. I have 4 of the black magic fans on my shelf if anyone is interested (cheap price). I'm sure the radiator will help with the cooling problem but I know the Spal fan will work. If you use both I know you won't have any cooling problem at any temp or traffic condition. The 1" tubing radiator is what I use. You will need to buy the relay kit from Spal because the Classic wiring will not handle the amp draw of the larger fan.
Don

[bad_sss]

I'm running a 351W with a twin turbo setup in a FFR. I used a griffin radiator, fans, elec water pump, and everything else I could think of, and could barely get the car under 220.

I finally went to Mr. Cool Radiators in austin and had him build me a radiator that would handle the cooling needs. With fans, I can run the car at 180 all day.

You may want to call the shop and speak to the owner. He may be able to help, and might save you money.

[Jack21]

I used the Griffin radiator specific for the CR with the 351. I used a Scotts 18" fan. Got it directly from Scotts. Think I got the fan mounts locally (Track - Pep Boys). Don't use the pull through fastners that go through the radiator. Sooner or later it will make the rad leak. Used steel bookshelf wall brackets epoxied onto upper & lower rad to mount fan mount bracket, and rad to frame. (Sounds kludgey, but it's simple, and works) Used a block thermostat/relay kit from Ron Francis. Mounted the sender in the intake manifold directly over the water outlet from the head. Used a 160 thermostat initially (engine break in), then switched to a 180. Lastly, I wired an override switch in the dash for sitting in traffic and didn't want the fan cycling on/off. Works fine in 95 degree, sitting in traffic heat, or tweaking engine in driveway. Also using Stant 7 lb cap and overflow recovery bottle so coolant returns to radiator. Track, $10.

Have shots if interested. (Haven't figured out how to upload photos to this site yet.) Will dig out Scotts PN too.

The Griffin, pricey, but it works.

[mkcobra]

I will have to agree with Don on this one infact i have a CR with the hipo 351W ~420hp and the large radiator and dual spal fans worked so well the first setup had the fans going all the time it cooled so well the car didnt ever get over 180. I live in TX so they work well. I have sense added the relay temp switch set at 190 and all works great no extra draw on the battery and the fans kick in when the motor is hot. Stick with Don's info Works on my cobra great.
Mike

[John Wais]

This will bring an old topic back up to the top.
I haven't been able to find a local source for the Spal 2VA06-AP6-37A not even at Hawaii Racing which suprised me.
The Be Cool 134-75007 in the Jegs catalog looks to be a Spal under the Be Cool name for $279.99
Any comments from the experts??
John W

[dscott]

I,m a dealer for Spal so I can order the fan. The cost is $275. You also need the relay and thermostat kit which runs about $50. You can also buy from Spal direct I think but I'm sure they charge full retail.
Don

[brandonF]

Try www.racesearch.com

The spal part numper is 30100846

racesearch.com sells it for $249.99

[cobra427mnsi]

BrandonF

I checked out the site you recommended, but the price I found on that site for the Spal Dual Hi Performance fans was $383.95
Was I looking in the wrong place?

Paul

[John Wais]

I found the same thing!!!
I emailed dscott to get one
Its fathers day and I don't have my present yet!!
John W.

[cobra fever]

i would call spf dealer and get info about the radiator and fan they use. I got a spf w/520stroker motor it has the alum radiator that has the thermo switch on it and the twin fan set up. Fans come on automatically when temp reaches 95. As soon as the fans come on temp drops 10degrees. The car runs fine with the burning hot climate and the traffic we have in LA
GOOD LUCK

[brandonF]

I don't know what you guys where looking at? But what I found was $249.99.
http://www.racesearch.com/CGImp/mhp?...0846&man=10867

[cobra427mnsi]

BrandonF

This is what I found at raceresearch.
http://www.racesearch.com/CGImp/mhp?cat=132;mode=sbpn

[brandonF]

did you notice that, that fan is being sold by C&R radiator. There marking it up.
When you first go to racesearch.com there are letters A-Z on the left hand side of the screen. Pick the letter that corresponds to the manufacturer you are looking for. In this case "S". This will drive up a list of all the manufacturers that start with "S" that racesearch deals with. Pick that manufacturer "Spal", then search only items listed by spal. There you will find the fan you are looking for, at the best price you will find.