4 - point roll bar

Mike Hausner · #1 (**permalink**) 01-07-2003, 04:41 AM

I finally have the full width 4 - point roll bar installed. The roll bar was made up by TOM BEROTH of BETHANIA GARAGE. He did a nice job on it. I added gussets to the down tube mounting brackets and had them welded up. Then I had to clean up the inside of the "cuff" that the down tube fits into with a 1-3/4" adjustable reamer. That was due to distortion from welding. I'll try to attach some pics.......MH

J. T. Toad · #2 (**permalink**) 01-07-2003, 03:55 PM

looks great glad it finally arrived, it will fit under a top if I remember correctly, no?

jdean · #3 (**permalink**) 01-07-2003, 04:04 PM

Hey Mike....looks good. What was the lead time from Tom to get it done?

John

Mike Hausner · #4 (**permalink**) 01-09-2003, 04:39 AM

I tried to post a 3/4 rear view that would show the set up better but the file was too big.
Yes, the bar is designed to fit under the top.
I spoke to Tom about the full width bar at CARLILSE and ordered it the end of May. The package arrived just before Thanksgiving. I either called or e-mailed him every so often for a progress report. I was just about to have my own made localy when he came through. He has a jig made specificaly for the CLASSIC ROADSTERS roll bar so there would be no guess work...MH

Double Venom · #5 (**permalink**) 01-09-2003, 05:24 AM

Mike,
Tommy is always running behind, like the rest of us. If Tommy has made the 4-point like we make ours, then I'm sure it will fit perfectly under the soft and hard top.

The trick is cutting the rear body at the proper location and angle to fit the pipes!

. If you want a source for grommets and rings to cover the cut outs, then contact Finish Line. Paula and Enzo have the best fitting trim rings to date. Not perfect mind you but close!

Question for you: Is your bar removable after the body is on?
DV

Mike Hausner · #6 (**permalink**) 01-10-2003, 04:39 AM

DV, Thanks for the input. I wanted to make the bar removable at any time so I have each mounting plate fastened to the frame with four 3/8"x3" grade 8 bolts. Its a real trick to remove it with everything at different angles but it can be done.
Question: Where the down tubes attach to the hoop (they slip over a smaller tube) should I use 2 thru bolts at 90 degrees to each other......or, should I drill and tap the bolts into the tubes?

Double Venom · #7 (**permalink**) 01-10-2003, 04:55 AM

Mike,
I haven't seen Tommy's bar up close, but I suspect he has used "slip tubes", smaller diameter tubes coming from the top bar, with the down legs slipping over them? If that is the case, we simply drill and tap from the front to back at the 90 angle you are talking about and tap the inner bar for 1/4x20 button head screw. Bolting all the way through at that point is not necessary.

DV