Fuse Block???

[coosawjack]

Hey Guys....

I just had the ignition die on the Cobra and after wiggling fuses it started back up??!! IT ALMOST GOT ME RUN OVER!!!

I have had constant problems with the electricals in the CR and it is always loose fuses or poor contact in the clips.

Does anyone have a solution or a better fuse block?? Mine is in the passenger foot box and a BEAR to get to...HELP!!!

Jack

[dscott]

Jack, Is this a Classic harness? The harness is normally to the right of the gas pedal. I'm not sure how someone would install it in the passenger side and make it work since all the harnesses are made to length for the drivers side. The only problem I have ever had with a Classic harness was using thier fan circuit with a fan that draws more power than the wires can handle. This really wasn't their fault because I use a fan that's draws at least 2 times as much power as the one designed for the kit. This problem was fixed by running power through a separate relay circuit. The fuse block that Classic supplies looks like a GM unit with the spade type fuses. I usually have to use major force to remove them so I've never seen one come loose.

By the way this may be a good time to think about a neutral safety switch. I'd hate to see you get hurt or even worse damage the Cobra!
Don

[Rick Parker]

Sometimes depending on weather conditions and age of the car/fuseblock there can be some minor corrosion on the fuses that will inhibit the contact with the terminals where the fuses fit into the block itself. I had this happen once and realized I had no rear tail lights. I removed the fuses (glass tube type) and polished/cleaned the contacts and the ends of the fuses with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Humidity in our area is almost non existant, I'm sure it would be worse in a high humidity area, unless you were to use a weathertight fuse box. Suggest including it as part of your routine maitenence.
Good luck
Rick

[petek]

You might also try (after cleaning) some dielectric grease on the fuse ends. Also, often times you can gently tighten the clips by removing the fuse and using a pair of long nose pliers to bring the clip together (just the tiniest bit).

[coosawjack]

Thanks Guys....

I have done all of the stuff you mention and I think the fuse clips are riveted to the terminals and corrosion is there?? I have soldered a few but it's a ***** in that foot box!!!

Don.....It is an old timey glass tube type fuse block. I thought it was a CR one but probably not. I'll call John York who built it and see what he says. I may have to replace it.

BTW....It does have a neutral safety switch. Clutch must be depressed to start it.

Thanks again,
Jack

[Double Venom]

Jack,
Is your fuse block ...long with glass fuzes? This is a type we have seen many "builders" use in the dark ages of kit cars. Bottom line, they well, they simply suck! If that is the case it is NOT a CR's harness.

Second thing, if you have a neutral safety switch, how or why did the car..."I just had the ignition die on the Cobra and after wiggling fuses it started back up??!! IT ALMOST GOT ME RUN OVER!!! " ?

It sounds like the car was in gear when it started?

Sounds like considering an entire new harness asembly may well be in your future. Installing a CR's at this point would not be impossible, but it would be a little difficult. Maybe an aftermarket harness such as Painless might be in order. Just a thought.

DV..we gotta be safe out there!

[coosawjack]

I'm sorry Ed....

No neutral safety.....Clutch switch only!!

I was turning left across two lanes of traffic and it quit about half way across!! Luckily I had enough momentum to make it....Then BOOM BOOM out of the exhaust!! Thought the timing chain had broken but dist rotor was turning.

Wiggled fuses and VROOOM...OK!!

I checked them this AM and the one in question was loose so I squeezed the clips together and it seems OK??

May get another fuse block but install will be upside down and really tight!!

Thanks for the help,
Jack

[coosawjack]

A photo of the fuse block....

[petek]

Changing the wiring harness would be a pain, even if you used the Painless harness (I have a Painless in my CR Cobra).

Changing the fuse box itself wouldn't be too difficult. I think Painless has a generic fuse box that might work. Or if you wanted to keep the use box that you have, remove it from the car, drill out the rivets and install #4 screws and star washers.

Like DV said, the barrel shaped glass fuses are old-fashion ... but they can be made to work with a little maintenance. From the picture the fuse box doesn't look to be in too bad of shape, but I'd still be tempted to replace the box with a newer blade type fuse box.

[dscott]

Jack, I agree with Pete and DV. I would look around for a block that uses the blade type fuse. It really should be no more than a simple swap.
Don

[Rick Parker]

After seeing the photo (nice installation) Check the crimping of the terminals to the wires themselves. Strain on the wires or the previously mentioned corrosion issue could be present here too(???)

Rick

[Double Venom]

Definately home made or aftremarket, not CR's.
Why would it start just by wiggeling???
Interesting, very interesting...add look of total confusion here!
DV - one who is in a constate state of total confusion

[coosawjack]

Hey Guys...

The fuse block is actually two "six slot" blocks side by side. York told me they were marine grade and he has had good luck with them over the years.

The problem is the clip rivets and clips themselves. I have soldered about half of them and will probably solder the rest.

It would be easy if it was out of the car but he pop riveted them and I'll have to do it upside down....FUN!!!!

Tnx,
Jack

[kountzecobra]

I didn't like the fuse box that came with my kit, so I bought the Painless fuseblock and used it. Very simple with good instructions if you need them. Uses modern blade type fuses. $80 well spent in my book.