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06-07-2003, 08:40 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Omaha,
Posts: 35
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Not Ranked
Solid motor mounts?
All,
I am having the worst time trying to find Polyurethane motor mounts to fit my frame mounts. The bolt hole from the frame mounts is about 1 inch from the top of outside edge of the frame mount. The motor mount is only about 1/2 inch deep. So I end up with motor mounts that won't reach down to the frame mount. I have been through several sets of mounts already. I am so frustrated, I am considering solid motor mounts.
Any strong recommendations from anyone about such a manuver?
Another option would be to grind part of the frame mounts down until the holes line up?
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06-09-2003, 08:23 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sauk Centre,
MN
Cobra Make, Engine: Owner, Classic Roadsters II
Posts: 1,347
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Not Ranked
Cobra, I use the Napa mount # 602-1639. They are rubber mounts which will work just fine in the car. I don't know of a poly mount. Leave the frame mounts loose until you have everything lined up. You may also have to leave the motor mounts loose. I wouldn't recommend solid mounts. You will feel all the engine vibration.
Don
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06-09-2003, 06:22 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
I used the Energy Suspension polyurethane motor mounts for their '79 up SBF. However, I had to make a pair of frame mounts to use them. I sent the cardboard mock ups and drawings to Pete at CR as I understood them to be switching to late Mustang motor mounts anyway.
Was not crazy about the flimsy looking small block frame mounts from CR, or the rubbery hold the OEM Ford MII motor mounts held (or didn't hold) the engine in place.
Added to this was the fact that when using a 351W, and a high rise intake such as the Ede Perf RPM, and a Holley (now a Demon) and some kind of dinky air cleaner; it sits too tall to close the hood. The frame mounts need to be lowered 3/4" - 1" anyway, so I might as well make a set to use the better poly mounts. When you lower the engine, you have to lower the trans a like amount. But they do work very well. Also used the E.S trans mount. Rock solid, no vibrations, but the car rocks a little with the engine idling.
If CR, or Don, or DV uses a late Mustang frame mount, these are the ones to use.
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06-09-2003, 08:02 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Omaha,
Posts: 35
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Not Ranked
Jack21,
I am in the exact same boat you were in. I have the Energy Suspension Polyurethane motor mounts, and I have already purchased frame mounts. I could trim the lip off the top of the frame mounts and make them work. Perhaps that is what I will do. I am sure that rubber mounts would be fine. I can't think of any problems with too much flex in the mounts? Just something physcoligical with using the poly mounts.
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06-10-2003, 06:10 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
Hawk,
Send me your e-mail, and I'll send you some shots of the mounts I took before installing them. Then you'll see how it works.
A good die grinder with carbide and non-ferrous files will be the handiest tool in your toolbox before you're finished
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06-10-2003, 07:06 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northridge,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz Cobra
Posts: 1,838
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Not Ranked
Hawk,
I've been running solid mounts for more than three years. Works great. But then, I had my engine balanced by a very good guy. He balanced the whole assembly including the harmonic balancer, flywheel, clutch and all.
Use a rubber or polyeurathane trans mount, otherwise chassis flex can crack your transmission.
Paul
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